aging in dried leaf

[SmokeStack]

I have read that a good way to store tobacco is to dry it to a crisp and let it age. The question I have is how can tobacco age if it is completely dried. I am assuming the aging is mediated through the action of enzymes. My crude understanding of enzymes is that a substrate must bind to an active site where the chemistry is taking place. If there is no water (solvent) present, then how can substrates "travel" to the active site (or vice-versa). It seems that storing tobacco in dry (crispy) state would slow down or stop the aging process. Wouldn't it be better to store tobacco in a "hydrated" form?

I place my tobacco in 2 gallon snap-lid jars that have a rubber seal to lock in moisture. If the tobacco is too dry, I mist it with water - only enough so that they leaf is limp. It is even easier to handle the leaf when hydrated as it will not crack and crumble. The only downside of this is that these jars hold no more than a pound and a half of tobacco leaf and each jar costs about $12.00 each - so I store only my most valuable leaf in these jars. I will have to construct a large wooden box with a humidifier for the rest of my tobacco.

 

[BarG]

Big heavy duty trash bags work too. When in a light case not dry. I have no mould issues after a year. No problem taking no chances with any favored leaf though. I never process any of my tobacco till ready to smoke.Any purchased tobacco whole leaf stays in the bags shipped in till used up. Thats my keep it simple strategy, till I find time to build an armoir size piece for hanging cured whole leaf.

 

[LeftyRighty]

Tobacco is color-cured, and must be thoroughly dry, to crispy, crunchy, including the midrib, first, before going to aging or fermentation. The dry stage is part of the process too. Whether stalk-hung or primed leaf, the cured/dried leaf is allowed to hang until ambient humidity, or artificial moisture brings it back in case. When back in case, it can be handled without breaking, to continue whatever process you want.

The tobacco can also just be left hanging, to let Mother Nature do her thing - I left my turkish just hang all winter last year. When I had time this spring, on a humid March day, it was in perfect case to pack and store.

 

[BarG]

Tobacco is color-cured, and must be thoroughly dry, to crispy, crunchy, including the midrib, first, before going to aging or fermentation. The dry stage is part of the process too. Whether stalk-hung or primed leaf, the cured/dried leaf is allowed to hang until ambient humidity, or artificial moisture brings it back in case. When back in case, it can be handled without breaking, to continue whatever process you want.

The tobacco can also just be left hanging, to let Mother Nature do her thing - I left my turkish just hang all winter last year. When I had time this spring, on a humid March day, it was in perfect case to pack and store.

I had naturaly assumed Smokes was talking about comepletly cured tobacco. I can't over winter in my hanging area which is covered but open to high winds and high humidity. I will take down sooner this year as soon as it is completly Air cured and pack away most likely in the mornings when it is safe to handle without damage due to being to dry. The evening humidity makes it pliable but by afternoon it would shatter at the touch. Providing all goes well anyway. I made several mistakes last year and last but not least was leaving hands and leaves hanging to long in an uncontrolled environment.But so far have noticed no problems with keeping stored in large or medium size plastic bags.

 

[deluxestogie]

Smokes,
Your assumption about aqueous substrate for enzymatic activity is correct. After color-curing is complete, the leaf will age very little if it is crumbly dry. I was surprised at how little moisture is required for aging. Low case is sufficient, and prevents molding. So 60% RH, and 60-70ºF will allow aging. Higher temps are faster. At a kiln temp of 125ºF, the humidity can remain between 75 and 80%, and still not mold.

When hanging leaf overwinters, then encounters high enough humidity and reasonable temps, it resumes aging. Some color-cured burley that was fairly "raw," aged appreciably over a couple of months in a plastic bag in my kitchen, while just barely in case (noisy, but slightly flexible).

The biggest problem with aging in the shed is that if the ambient humidity stays high for many days on end, the stems seem to rehydrate and hold moisture much longer than the lamina, and will tend to mold. If such leaf is stemmed, then kept at low case, the risk of mold is significantly reduced.

Bob

 

[BigBonner]

I let my three barns of burley hang last summer and stripped a little at a time . At the middle to end of July the tobacco would be in a high case early in the mornings and medium case at lunch . It came in and out of case like this until the middle to end of August . Summer sweat .

On days of high humidity the sun would be out in full force and the tobacco would still be in case hanging in the barns .

The burley hanging in the top of the barn where it was the hottest was a little better for smoking .

 

[Randy]

Rite after the color-curing is done everthing is crispy including the main stem.how is the safest way to first de-stem
then maybe smooth-out and store;if not going straight to fermation at that point..lets say you want to store it awile before
you futher treat it? whats the safest way to store it?

 

[Jitterbugdude]

The safest way to de-stem crispy tobacco is to bring it back in to case. You can do this by spritzing the leaves with water and putting in an airt tight container for a day. This container can be a sealed plastic bag or plastic box. You can also just hang your tobacco outside overnight in a protected area. In the morning it should be nice and soft. Once your tobacco is nice and pliable you can then strip it.

As for storing, it depends on how long you want to store it. If you want to store if long term (months) put it in a sturdy box but be aware that when you go to remove it months later it will probably be dry so pack it in a way that you will not destroy it while taking it out. For shorter term storage, depending on the quantity you can store in 1 gallon bags, mason jars and plastic boxes.


Randy B

 

[johnlee1933]

I place my tobacco in 2 gallon snap-lid jars that have a rubber seal to lock in moisture. If the tobacco is too dry, I mist it with water - only enough so that they leaf is limp. It is even easier to handle the leaf when hydrated as it will not crack and crumble. The only downside of this is that these jars hold no more than a pound and a half of tobacco leaf and each jar costs about $12.00 each - so I store only my most valuable leaf in these jars. I will have to construct a large wooden box with a humidifier for the rest of my tobacco.

I recently found special tops for 5 gallon plastic pails. They are "food grade" plastic. Home Depot sells them for ~$8.50. The rim snaps firmly to the top of any plastic 5 gallon pail. (And I do mean FIRMLY.) The inner portion (cover) then unscrews. It has a nice O-ring seal. My buddy uses them for his emergency supplies. I have lots of 5 gallon pails. I am going to get a couple of the tops and use them for a bulk storage test. You might want to consider them for your storage. (Larger and cheaper than your 2 gallon units.) Oh Yeah, you can buy the buckets but I have plenty and don't have to do that. I recently got 2 six gallon food grade buckets from a Chinese restaurant and after a thorough cleaning plan to test one of them. Since they had duck sauce in them I don't anticipate a problem. Just an idea. Hope it helps.

John