Need to build a kiln

[DonH]

Let me just say that I am not a carpenter or an electrician. So I need to keep it simple. I was leaning toward building one out of polystyrene or rigid foam insulation. Or is it better to build it out of plywood and insulate on the inside? Plywood exterior would definitely look better but it would be cheaper and easier just to build the box out of sheets of insulation. As long as it could be made durable enough.

I have a crockpot I can use and I am planning on springing for the ETC 111000 controller already wired up.

 

[Jitterbugdude]

Before anyone can make some solid recommendations to you tell us some specifics. How much tobacco are you growing? How much to you plan to put into your kiln at one time? What do you want to get out of it? By that I mean, are you wanting to build a kiln to speed up the aging process? You do not actually need a kiln. Time (6 -9 months) will do the same thing a kiln will do in 4 weeks.

Some suggestions on materials. I use the rigid foam board insulation. It is easy to cut, a table saw gives a real nice smooth cut, but a hand saw could be used too. If you use the rigid board I would get your kiln set up and run it for a few weeks before adding any tobacco. This will allow a lot of the noxious chemicals to off gas. My kiln is about 3x3x4 feet. I use a 100 watt light bulb on a Ranco thermostat and a warm air mist humidifier on a humidistat. The Ranco is really nice but it is overkill. A typical water heater thermostat works fine. I would not use wood inside your thermostat, it will probably rot before your first batch of tobacco is done.

Randy B

 

[Boboro]

I use an old freezer with foam board covering

 

[Chicken]

i have a overkill sized kiln,,,,

i proablly could cut it in half, and it still do the job, but ive tested it, and run 2 crock-pot's,,,

and it will be sucessfull.....and i have enough baccy this year to definatlly fill it up. for one run, to kiln all of it,,, and then shred it all for storage,,,

>>

By chickenhawk434 at 2012-06-17
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By chickenhawk434 at 2012-06-17

^^^^

that was a experimental run i did on it,,,,

when i actually crank it up. it will be full of baccy hands,

 

[Jack in NB]

Don -

The Coffinails site has some ideas on the box configuration.

We took that concept and went larger - mine will hold leaves from 150 plants or so.

Pix are posted in the "How to grow tobacco" site picture gallery (click on top right of the main screen), page 2, under my
name.

 

[DonH]

Before anyone can make some solid recommendations to you tell us some specifics. How much tobacco are you growing? How much to you plan to put into your kiln at one time? What do you want to get out of it? By that I mean, are you wanting to build a kiln to speed up the aging process? You do not actually need a kiln. Time (6 -9 months) will do the same thing a kiln will do in 4 weeks.

Some suggestions on materials. I use the rigid foam board insulation. It is easy to cut, a table saw gives a real nice smooth cut, but a hand saw could be used too. If you use the rigid board I would get your kiln set up and run it for a few weeks before adding any tobacco. This will allow a lot of the noxious chemicals to off gas. My kiln is about 3x3x4 feet. I use a 100 watt light bulb on a Ranco thermostat and a warm air mist humidifier on a humidistat. The Ranco is really nice but it is overkill. A typical water heater thermostat works fine. I would not use wood inside your thermostat, it will probably rot before your first batch of tobacco is done.

Randy B

This year I am growing 50 plants roughly. I do want to speed up the aging process mostly because it's my first year and I want to have usable product as soon as possible. Also I don't have a ton of space to hang leaves during the winter where temps won't get below freezing. This way, after it comes out of the kiln (late fall, probably) it can go in regular storage.

Glad to hear you made yours out of rigid foam insulation. I was leaning toward that, so I think that's the way I'll go. It would be easier to move than a freezer.

 

[DonH]

Don -

The Coffinails site has some ideas on the box configuration.

We took that concept and went larger - mine will hold leaves from 150 plants or so.

Pix are posted in the "How to grow tobacco" site picture gallery (click on top right of the main screen), page 2, under my
name.

I just looked at the pictures. Nice design! I like the simplicity. Having the 2X2 frame would give it stability. I was wondering if just using the foam board would be stable enough. Is there a problem with mold on the wood?

 

[DonH]

Don -

The Coffinails site has some ideas on the box configuration.

We took that concept and went larger - mine will hold leaves from 150 plants or so.

Pix are posted in the "How to grow tobacco" site picture gallery (click on top right of the main screen), page 2, under my
name.

I had looked at the coffin nails design as one possibility. I think I would make it taller than his but not quite at tall as yours. I was thinking 4-5 feet high.

 

[deluxestogie]

My all wood kiln has been in continuous service for about two years, with no mold problem. The temperature seems to inhibit mold growth.

Bob

 

[Jitterbugdude]

. I was wondering if just using the foam board would be stable enough.

Mine is strictly foam board, no wood. It's a bit tricky keeping it sealed because I made mine so I could readily take it apart after I'm done fermenting.
Randy B

 

[Daniel]

The biggest issue that comes to my mind. regardless of what you build one out of. Is that it must remain sealed. if it leaks at all you will not be able to control humidity. Leaf will just cook dry and in a hurry. Otherwise it is an issue of holding a temperature and humidity level that you desire. If foam insualtion can withstand the temperatures it should work just fine. I have made them from Styrofoam boxes and they work. watch the heat source though it can melt the foam.

 

[johnlee1933]

I do want to speed up the aging process mostly because it's my first year and I want to have usable product as soon as possible. Also I don't have a ton of space to hang leaves during the winter where temps won't get below freezing. This way, after it comes out of the kiln (late fall, probably) it can go in regular storage.

The kiln will accelerate the curing but remember you may want to hang it for a month or two after kilning

Hanging cured leaf where it gets below freezing I don't believe will hurt it. It just won't cure more at that temp. My sun porch regularly gets that cold. I taste no ill effect. Perhaps the temp swing aids in curing. Who knows?

John

 

[SmokesAhoy]

I've heard that freezing kills the enzymes, but I know the stalks I hung in the attic continued to brown after the temps went back up.my attic is not insulated but the house is, so there are really no leaks that keep the leaf warm over winter so it kept below freezing for months. Maybe the flavor will be inferior to stuff that did not ever freeze, if so I don't know theu taste pretty good though. It should be noted they were pretty dry before freezing temps set in though so maybe that plays a role

 

[deluxestogie]

Freezing merely halts the temperature dependent action of the enzymes, until they warm again. Freezing will kill a green leaf, and prevent it from ever metabolically consuming the chlorophyll and other cellular compounds, but color-cured leaf can be frozen ad lib. Commercial tobacco barns freeze repeatedly each winter.

Bob

 

[Chicken]

i do have some sealing issues, and better insulation matters, to do to mine before i fire it up.

i may section and eliminate a 1/3 of it off,

it's bigger than i think i need, no sense in heating/humidiating a area, that i have no leaf in,

 

[DonH]

Freezing merely halts the temperature dependent action of the enzymes, until they warm again. Freezing will kill a green leaf, and prevent it from ever metabolically consuming the chlorophyll and other cellular compounds, but color-cured leaf can be frozen ad lib. Commercial tobacco barns freeze repeatedly each winter.

Bob

That's good to know. I can hang it in the unfinished part of my attic when winter hits. I don't think it gets too much below 40 up there, and when the weather gets warm again it gets pretty hot. Might be a little low in humidity but there are two windows up there.

 

[BarG]

Coming in and out of case seems to be essential for air curing. Are you able to do both adequately in your attic.

I have been in quite a few attics in my day and relative humidity is close to none morning noon or nite.

 

[BarG]

Freezing merely halts the temperature dependent action of the enzymes, until they warm again. Freezing will kill a green leaf, and prevent it from ever metabolically consuming the chlorophyll and other cellular compounds, but color-cured leaf can be frozen ad lib. Commercial tobacco barns freeze repeatedly each winter.

Bob

Do harm come after they freeze when the leaf is adequtely air dried [No]. Iv'e seen froze green leaf. not a pretty sight. Picture boiled spinach with black mold.

 

[BarG]

This year I am growing 50 plants roughly. I do want to speed up the aging process mostly because it's my first year and I want to have usable product as soon as possible. Also I don't have a ton of space to hang leaves during the winter where temps won't get below freezing. This way, after it comes out of the kiln (late fall, probably) it can go in regular storage.

Glad to hear you made yours out of rigid foam insulation. I was leaning toward that, so I think that's the way I'll go. It would be easier to move than a freezer.

Hang everything outdoors and when freeze temps start you have no choice than to relocate any green leafs. Anything air cured with a dry midrib and you can store that almost anywhere. your space is what you make of it DonH.

 

[DrBob]

If you have a crockpot and an etc11000 you are off to a great start. An old refrigerator or freezer work great. I am at the point now that I have a lot of tobacco that has been hanging 1 to 3 years so my curing is minimal now. I live in northern wisconsin and my tobacco hangs in a barn just aging away. All the freezing temperatures do is slow the aging process without any harm to the tobacco. If your tobacco can hang a year 10 days in the chamber is magic.
It is important that the curing chamber is air tight as Daniel said.. Good luck
Bob