formulating tobacco fertilizer

[SmokeStack]

I am in the process of developing a fertilizer that is specific to tobacco. I selected ingredients which are relatively atoxic and environmentally friendly. The ingredients meet the American Chemical Society (ACS) standards of ultra-high purity. The formula provides a good dose of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for vigorous growth along with trace minerals to replenish the soil. The formula is slightly acidic and keeps the soil at the right pH. Also, I have purposely excluded chloride from the formula since chloride impedes the smoking characteristics of tobacco. I have been researching fertilizer for quite some time now and I could not find a source that meets the aforementioned criteria.

For my experimental study, I am using TN90 and Yellow Orinoco. Already, I have observed marked changes in leaf growth and coloring in comparison to the control subjects. I need another season for testing to obtain comprehensive results. I want to measure other factors such as nicotine levels that require the use of specialized instrumentation (GC/MS). I also would need a complete soil analysis.

I administer the fertilizer to the tobacco plants as a solution by dissolving a calculated amount of the fertilizer in deionized water. Then I add one liter of this solution per plant. The next day I water each plant with one liter of water to help wash down the fertilizer closer to the roots.

I will provide updates of results as my experimenting continues. I know that this is a lot of work just for fertilizer, but, as a chemist, I find it to be more of a hobby than anything else.

 

[SmokesAhoy]

And we appreciate said hobby

 

[FmGrowit]

Different types of tobacco have different fertilizer needs, but it would be fantastic to develop a base fertilizer and then the small amounts of additional componants can be added.

There are lengthy documents on commercial applications of fertilizer in the "Types" forum. All are resent publications fomr respective State's Universities. Fertilizer requirements for Oriental varieties is limited, but then so is the need for fertilizer with this type.

Virginia and N. Carolina = Flue Cured
Kentucky = Burley
Tennessee = Fire Cured and Dark Air
Maryland = Maryland (go figure)

Cigar types will be something of a challenge to find industry specs on.

After you perfect your formula, you're more than welcome to market it in the Products forum.

 

[Tom_in_TN]

Sounds like a good plan. I have some mighty good soil that has taken many decades to develop and I might need some help keeping the fertility high. Using high quality ingredients might even tempt me to buy some of that if you wanted to sell it.

 

[Chicken]

are you trying to keep it as organic as possible???

 

[Jitterbugdude]

I want to measure other factors such as nicotine levels that require the use of specialized instrumentation (GC/MS). )

Sounds like a fun experiment. ...but..I do not think you would get any useful data by measuring nicotine levels. Nicotine levels vary by the cultivar, the position on the stalk, the number of days harvested after topping, whether they were topped at bud stage or elongated bud stage, excessive rain, excessive drought.. and maybe 50 more variables I can't remember.

 

[johnlee1933]

I don't want to increase the experimental load. I understand your use of DI water. However most of us don't have stream or rain water for irrigation. Would it be difficult or even of use to factor in (or specifically exclude) things like hard water or water bearing significant iron or manganese?

John

 

[Jitterbugdude]

Another thing to consider is that all you can due is come up with a generic formulation like a 20-10-20 with micro nutrients etc. These already exist in industry. I have very high Phosphorus levels I would not want a 20-10-20 formula, I'd want something like a 20-0-10 formula. I also have very low manganese so I would need a very high manganese amount in my mix. The problem with that is that as the pH is lowered, more manganese is taken up and manganese toxicity is a real concern for tobacco.I guess what I'm trying to say is it sounds like you might be re-inventing the wheel.
Randy B

 

[Tom_in_TN]

are you trying to keep it as organic as possible???

yeah, and doing OK so far. I have some Bursa plants that require a step ladder to reach the bloom head and the other plants are also doing great. I set my rows 4' apart and they should have been 5'. Hoping I got all the trace minerals in the dirt too and I suppose the way the tobacco burns and tastes will be the important test. How well did the Fox's foliage plant food do for your plants?

 

[Daniel]

IN general large growers, producing acres of tobacco, want to know exactly what to add to the soil because adding more than is needed is a waste of money. On a small scale this wasted money is not nearly as much of an issue. In the case of some nutrients it may be harmful to add to much but for the most part any extra is just waste and wit will stay in the soil, break down or be washed away. the washing away can be a problem of it's own on a large scale as well. It is going to happen weather you add a little or you add to much anyway. adding less fertilizer does not change the fact rain can wash it away.

I am very interested in a tobacco specific fertilizer with application rates per plant or square foot rather than per acre.

 

[leverhead]

I am very interested in a tobacco specific fertilizer with application rates per plant or square foot rather than per acre.

1 acre = 43,560 Square Feet

 

[deluxestogie]

The conversion, as you probably know--though others may not, is:

pounds per acre X 0.000 023 = pounds per square foot;

pounds per acre X 0.000 001 44 = ounces (dry weight) per square foot.

If all you have is a scale with grams, then:

pounds per acre X 0.000 000 05 = grams per square foot.

Bob

 

[Chicken]

yeah, and doing OK so far. I have some Bursa plants that require a step ladder to reach the bloom head and the other plants are also doing great. I set my rows 4' apart and they should have been 5'. Hoping I got all the trace minerals in the dirt too and I suppose the way the tobacco burns and tastes will be the important test. How well did the Fox's foliage plant food do for your plants?

it actually did quiet well....

but i guess, miracle grow would do good also,

i found a plant, that makes thier own liquid fertilizer, and it's all organic, { i delivered some fertilizer there }

so around december, im gonna get a concentrate quart of a good mix, once i figure, out what mix, i may want,

proablly one high in nitrogen, for the beginning phase pf plant growth

 

[Jitterbugdude]

[/B
but i guess, miracle grow would do good also,

It does work but the problem is the form of fertilizer. Miracle Grow will kill the beneficial bacteria in your soil, plus it most likely is not a fertilizer preparation that is based on the specific requirements of your soil. It works, but if you practice sustainable agriculture you should avoid it.

 

[Tom_in_TN]

[/B]I found a plant, that makes thier own liquid fertilizer, and it's all organic, { i delivered some fertilizer there }

so around december, im gonna get a concentrate quart of a good mix, once i figure, out what mix, i may want,

proablly one high in nitrogen, for the beginning phase pf plant growth

It's great to hear your current work is going so well. That liquid fertilizer your writing about may be just the ticket to help me get those Bursa plants and some of the others, reaching all the way to the sun next year. Keep researching and let me know cause you might ought get 2 quarts, and send me one. I've been priming leaf the past 2 days, YTB, and hope to have some decent leaf to trade for stuff like that later on this year.

 

[Chicken]

It does work but the problem is the form of fertilizer. Miracle Grow will kill the beneficial bacteria in your soil, plus it most likely is not a fertilizer preparation that is based on the specific requirements of your soil. It works, but if you practice sustainable agriculture you should avoid it.

so getting a soil annalysis, to determine what n-p-k- your foliar sparay needs to be would add into the equation,?

but if you get the proper soil granualar fertilizer to adjust your soil annalyisis,

then couldnt your foiliar spray be a neutral, baccy fertilizer spray,,

say 4-8-12- the FOX FARM is 12-4-4- a little high on the nitrogen side, but it's formulated for leaf growth, with certain trace elemnets, in it, /??????

 

[Jitterbugdude]

Foliar sprays are usually used as an add on to a good soil fertilazation program. You can formulate your foliars for vegetative growth or reproductive growth. I used to use foliars successfully on most of the stuff I grew like tomatoes, cukes, peaches etc but tobacco is such an easy plant to grow that I do not use foliars on it.

 

[Jack in NB]

Bob -

Good info, and timely. I was just about to ask how many plants per acre, to review my N application. I'm spoon-feeding most of my 100 odd plants every 4 to 5 days with about 1/3 litre of 500 ppm N. Takes me an hour.

I'm experimenting with 3 different rates on one group this year, and I see possible minor growth suppression at my highest rate, even though that rate seems to be in the range of 10% (total for the season if my math is accurate) of info I'm presently using.

Are your figures for broadcast applications? If so, how does one adjust for sidedressing applications?

I recall figures of 150 - 200 lbs of Nitrogen sidedressing earlier in the year. Is that 150-200 lb figure the N content, or product?

Thanks.

Jack

The conversion, as you probably know--though others may not, is:

pounds per acre X 0.000 023 = pounds per square foot;

pounds per acre X 0.000 001 44 = ounces (dry weight) per square foot.

If all you have is a scale with grams, then:

pounds per acre X 0.000 000 05 = grams per square foot.

Bob

 

[deluxestogie]

Jack,
Sorry, but I don't do chemical fertilizer. I just till in composted cow manure every year.

My numbers are just to help in converting a per acre recommendation into a per square feet value.

I'm sure others would have more knowledge about broadcast vs. side dressing.

Bob

 

[SmokeStack]

Another thing to consider is that all you can due is come up with a generic formulation like a 20-10-20 with micro nutrients etc. These already exist in industry. I have very high Phosphorus levels I would not want a 20-10-20 formula, I'd want something like a 20-0-10 formula. I also have very low manganese so I would need a very high manganese amount in my mix. The problem with that is that as the pH is lowered, more manganese is taken up and manganese toxicity is a real concern for tobacco.I guess what I'm trying to say is it sounds like you might be re-inventing the wheel.
Randy B

I agree. The fertilizer was designed to be an all purpose type of tobacco fertilizer without chloride to be used for small scale tobacco growing like myself. I understand that a commercial or large scale production of tobacco would require soil tests and the appropriate N-P-K. My formula has a high N value with respect to the P and K values. Miracle grow and other fertilizers contain a substantial amount of chloride - this was what really prompt me to make my own fertilizer - there is no chloride. But even tobacco plants need trace amounts of chloride. So far, it seems to be working - at least from a visual inspection: the fertilized plants have darker leaves and are growing faster. Am I reinventing the wheel? Probably, but I am having fun doing so.