when to start priming

[SmokeStack]

I searched the forum, but I could not find a definitive answer: When should I start priming my tobacco? The FAQ mentions that the leaf should begin to brown and curl, yet I see many pictures of harvested leaf that are entirely green. My Yellow Orinoco is the tallest and largest of my crop. I planted them in mid June so they are about two months old. They are beginning to flower and I will have to start topping them off tomorrow. The leaves are large and I wish I had measured them for this post. Here is a picture that I took eleven days ago:

Is there a certain time after topping off that I should start priming? Or do the leaves have to reach a certain size?

It's find it difficult for me to distinguish between a green leaf that is ready for priming and one that isn't.

Also, what is the difference between a mature leaf and a ripe leaf?

I am anxious to begin harvesting, but I don't want to start too early. I imagine that harvesting too early would give tobacco that is bland?

To me this seems to be the most hair-pulling part of growing tobacco - I have no experience to determine when a leaf is ripe. So far, everything else has gone along smoothly. I know I have asked a lot of questions in this post and I would greatly appreciate your replies.

Thanks,
Marco

 

[Michibacy]

I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of quality if it means getting to dry all my tobaccy. So I start 4 weeks roughly after topping. Then do it by thirds every week and a half. I've left the plants that I kept for seed with the top third leaves on until the seed pods dry up.

It feel quite early in the season to do it, but I don't have the facility to dry in doors if it gets colder out.

 

[Jitterbugdude]

I use several criteria to determine when to prime. (1)There will be a subtle change in appearance of the leaf, going from green to a slightly lighter green that is beginning to get krinkly. (2) The stem on the underside of the leaf will change appearance, it will get an alligator type look to it. (3) And the most important criterion.... I pull off a lower leaf, if it snaps like celery.... it is ready!

As a general rule this timing usually occurs about 3 weeks after topping. This year though I started priming and stalk curing at 10 days after topping. Not too sure why so early , maybe the extreme heat combined with my fertilization program.

A "benefit" of my early priming is that the crop is about 75% cured. Here's the cool thing, I've already smoked some of the leaf after curing for 30 days and it is excellent! There is no bite and no need to age it for a year or kiln it. The Xanthi Yaka I smoked was particularly interesting because it had a smooth flavorful taste and it did not go out while smoking (Xanthi Yaka is famous for not burning well). I've also tried Little Dutch, Big Gem, Yellow Pryor, Glessnor and some BSS-Maden- all excellent. The BSS-Maden seems just a bit milder (taste wise) than last year's crop

Randy B

 

[Daniel]

I have found 4 different things to look for to indicate a leaf is ripe. Any given variety may show only one or possibly all of them.

1. the leaf takes on an alligator texture.
2. the leaf begins to yellow in a spotty pattern, not at the edges but over the surface of the leaf starting at the tip.
3. the edges of the leaf will start to get wavy starting at the stalk.
4. the leaf becomes sticky.

Due to much of what I have been reading this year I have started harvesting my leaf as soon as I see any sign it is ripe. The snap test is the confirmation that it was in fact ripe. I am doing this due to the conversations that letting the leaf over ripen produces inferior tobacco. Much of my tobacco was completely green even though it showed other signs of ripening.

Actually turning brown is way past the point of needing to be picked. It should be hanging in a shed long before it turns brown.

 

[deluxestogie]

For cigar wrapper and binder, I would suggest that you risk picking too early, rather than too late. For these leaves in particular, I watch for the most subtle changes in color and texture. This approach tends to yield the most suitable wrappers. When the leaf is allowed to go beyond barely mature, it becomes thicker, stronger, darker and generally more intense.

Binder will have more structural durability (for compressing the filler bulk) if primed a little later than wrapper.

I make maduro and oscuro leaf by allowing the upper leaf to mature well. Kilning develops the deep color, but I nonetheless end up with thick leaf and heavy veins in my dark wrapper. The tongue taste of such dark wrappers is more pronounced than with leaf primed earlier.

For filler, variations in when you prime will directly affect their strength and aromatic intensity--the later the stronger. If you want mild wrapper or binder or filler, prime early.

Bob