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Markw

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Hi Darren

I have some of those and they are very good I just have not had time to finish or even start the kiln yet. But hopefully will find time in the next few weeks I got mine from HK they do a good price on alliexpress.

Mark
 

darren1979

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Ah cheers Mark, Its always nice to get a second opinion, dont want a piece of useless plastic kicking around. Good idea on the aliexpress just had a quick butchers and both will cost around $32 with shipping, Result!
 

Markw

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Your welcome Darren.
I have also managed to get hold of some industrial brush draft excluder. you just push the leaf stem into it and it holds it in place I used it for the drying my leaf, it saves a lot of time in making those hands up, quick and simple just pull them off when ready and stick new leaves up.

Mark.
 

leverhead

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There is a thermostat that looks like it would do the job. it is available from thermomart it is a PID-rs-r-h It is designed as a kiln controller It costs $79.95 It will go to 500 stages if needed. it is rated -200f - +1700f From what I see about flue curing a manual thermostat like the ranco etc 111000 may be a better bet.

From just a quick look at the manual, it's not easy to read, it sounds like it will do the job. I may need a 10 year old to show me how to work it, they seem to be better at it.
In the section of the manual "Supplementary Instruction Manual For the Ramp/Soak option of Programmable Controller Version 6.58", it sounds pretty straight forward.
 

leverhead

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Hi Darren,

In the US we use 110/220 V 60 cycle. What is your power supply? It's not real important, I'm just curious.

Steve
 

darren1979

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Hi Darren,

In the US we use 110/220 V 60 cycle. What is your power supply? It's not real important, I'm just curious.

Steve

Hi Steve,

We use 230v with 50hz in most households, most new houses have a main fuse board running at 100a then individual rcd's for lighting (normally 6a) and sockets(32a).

Ive had a few shocks over the years but still here lol.
 

Knucklehead

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Can LeftyRighty's kiln build be lifted from here and given it's own thread? The work is very neat and tidy and it's easy to see what he did, so it would be easily duplicated. It's a text book build. It is excellent reference material, but buried in someone else's thread and is hard to find, even if you know what to look for. I would like to steer others to it in the future. A sticky would be nice too.
 

Webby

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Can LeftyRighty's kiln build be lifted from here and given it's own thread? The work is very neat and tidy and it's easy to see what he did, so it would be easily duplicated. It's a text book build. It is excellent reference material, but buried in someone else's thread and is hard to find, even if you know what to look for. I would like to steer others to it in the future. A sticky would be nice too.
Fully agree, just finished my build and that would have been a great help. Have read loads here in the last weeks and not seen this as it is well hidden away. A hidden jem..
 

LeftyRighty

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after nearly a decade of use, am going with a chest freezer for my next kiln, and consider dumping the old one.
Why, door seal keep failing. Several changes for the new one :

- abandon the outside water jug for refilling the crockpot - does not work, tap water has a lot of dissolved air, and formation of even a small air bubble in the tubing kills the siphon.
- abandon the hot-water thermostat, rusted out after about 5 years (how?, unknown), but not needed anyway, Ranco temp controller works absolutely great. Initial reason for this cutoff thermostat was to prevent kiln heating above 135+F deg while kiln-fermenting air-cured leaf and destroying enzymes needed for long term aging.
- any size crockpot works great, producing adequate heat/humidity for fermenting (aging) leaf. Open top crockpot releases too much humidity, very slight offset lid will work OK, but found that just laying a loose piece of plastic board on the crockpot works great (leaks just enough moisture). When I started using this kiln for flue-curing, even the largest crockpot, barely got to the 165 deg needed, consider using 2 crockpots, need to adjust electrical for this.
- add a drain to the bottom of the kiln. Frequently condensation on the walls & door accumulated and puddled. I will build a wood frame under the kiln, and place a shallow pan under to collect water, then I can dump this.
- Just one time, over packed leaf (bundled too tightly) for flue-curing, had the entire batch bloomed with black mold overnight, (had to trash this, and bleach-clean entire kiln). Will add more fans, increase upper exhaust pipe/valve to one inch or larger, use empty crockpot for flue-curing, and pack leaf better, monitor closely.

Quickly learned that I needed to add water to the crockpot every 2nd day when kiln-fermenting, with a 2nd crockpot, maybe go longer. Not a big deal anyway. When crockpot went empty of water, leaf went crispy-dry, only took a couple hours after refilling the crockpot for leaf to go back to proper case. No harm to the leaf. This happened often when out-of-town for a long weekend.

I will probably keep the old kiln for a while - am growing more bright leaf strains now, and may be handy to have a 2nd kiln for flue-curing additional batches at the same time.
 

Plinsc

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Just wondering, what size recommended for a scratch build for 1 persons needs? (In general)
This spring I’d like to try my hand at building one from aircrete panels.
 

deluxestogie

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Think of the capacity of a kitchen refrigerator.

My current kiln, diagramed below, is a little too small. (It's a little over 13 cubic feet.)

kilnFrame03_annotated.jpg


Check the various kilns linked in our Index of Key Forum Threads.

Bob
 

Plinsc

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I’m thinking of the bottom being modular, so I can make it larger or smaller by moving the bottom shelf up and down.
I’ll spitball and come up with ways to make it difficult to build. Lol
 
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