Considering the position of your upper left damper I assume that is a fresh air inlet damper. Am I correct? -·-
Idea Curing Box
- Thread starter AmaxB
- Start date
- Status
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Yes that one is in and the one on the left is out...
Am concerned about the flue under tobacco area I think it will be double wall to and fans on top. I don't know thinking ....maybe insulation in between. I cannot have free air flow here.
Am concerned about the flue under tobacco area I think it will be double wall to and fans on top. I don't know thinking ....maybe insulation in between. I cannot have free air flow here.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
This leads me to thinking about the whole box (possible fire risk) ....I'll double wall the whole thing and use metal roofing for inside walls. Going to take a trip to the building supply look around and price things. Got the gen. idea must now tweak it.
I'm going to go out on a limb here, and caution against using a metal interior liner-panel.
Both deluxestogie & leverhead had flue-curing boxes with metal liners, and each had problems with browning, scalding, barn rot, etc (whatever), whenever leaf touched the metal. I think a lot of this may be due to the high conductivity of heat for the metal, cause condensation or wet leaf that lead to the browning. A liner panel, that is more insulating, like plastic, may work better.
I'd also caution against wood, as it absorbs moisture, and holds it.
If you're not going to pack the curing box full, that is, such that the leaf doesn't touch the panel, then it won't be an issue. But if you're going to fill it tight, there may be a moisture/condensation problem with metal, leading to browning.
I haven't built my flue-curing box yet, but I did experiment with my fermenting kiln. This is a freezer box, with a plastic liner, and I intentionly packed leaf against the liner panel. Even when I had the RH above 90%, I never got condensation on the liner panel, not did the leaf get wet against the panel.
Just my 2¢ worth !
(edit) Polyurethane sheeting may be an option, or the like, but remember, not all plastics are acceptable. My test for my new freezer flue-curing box, was to boil water in a large pot, and set that on the liner panel - it didn't melt or stink, so I know it will take temps to 200+ degrees.
Both deluxestogie & leverhead had flue-curing boxes with metal liners, and each had problems with browning, scalding, barn rot, etc (whatever), whenever leaf touched the metal. I think a lot of this may be due to the high conductivity of heat for the metal, cause condensation or wet leaf that lead to the browning. A liner panel, that is more insulating, like plastic, may work better.
I'd also caution against wood, as it absorbs moisture, and holds it.
If you're not going to pack the curing box full, that is, such that the leaf doesn't touch the panel, then it won't be an issue. But if you're going to fill it tight, there may be a moisture/condensation problem with metal, leading to browning.
I haven't built my flue-curing box yet, but I did experiment with my fermenting kiln. This is a freezer box, with a plastic liner, and I intentionly packed leaf against the liner panel. Even when I had the RH above 90%, I never got condensation on the liner panel, not did the leaf get wet against the panel.
Just my 2¢ worth !
(edit) Polyurethane sheeting may be an option, or the like, but remember, not all plastics are acceptable. My test for my new freezer flue-curing box, was to boil water in a large pot, and set that on the liner panel - it didn't melt or stink, so I know it will take temps to 200+ degrees.
told you i had no idea, of what they are building,...lol
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Thanks LeftyRighty for this important information, I am at a road block with what to use as material to build the box. Just finished reading this study on wood ignition it is saying that long term 77C could cause it to burn.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=Dk7DHIeFAR_IDiUSBuRHGA&bvm=bv.42080656,d.dmg
What you point out on metal is interesting.
There is a material called Dense Board a kind of exterior sheet rock it would work well but the box would weigh a ton. Am thinking of a tile underlayment board (won't burn or wet) is about 3/16 thick will check it for cost it could be a winner as a liner.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=Dk7DHIeFAR_IDiUSBuRHGA&bvm=bv.42080656,d.dmg
What you point out on metal is interesting.
There is a material called Dense Board a kind of exterior sheet rock it would work well but the box would weigh a ton. Am thinking of a tile underlayment board (won't burn or wet) is about 3/16 thick will check it for cost it could be a winner as a liner.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Here is what I am talking about http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
leverhead
Well-Known Member
I did have problems with condensation on the inside of the drum, I had a hard time insulating it well. The fridge worked well, it was much better insulated. The Hardie Backer Board seems like a good choice, I thought about it last year but I didn't need to make the decision. The fridge I bought had a metal lining, the only changes I made were to get the air in and out and remove the refrigeration unit.
Getting the heat source out from under the leaves is a good move, the leaves are tinder dry by the time you're done. Updraft is good! It keeps the crud out of your ducts without screens or filters. My first try at this in the drum was downdraft, that sucked. I don't think you'll need the middle damper, it would only act as a choke. If you have speed control on your fans, you can throttle it that way.
I just did a quick read through the link about wood igniting at 77 C. I don't know if that directly applies here, but like I said, I wouldn't do this in my house. If all goes well, you'll end up with some nice tobacco. If it doesn't, you could lose more than your tobacco and equipment. How things fail can be more important than how things work, it's the difference between an "aw shit" and a disaster.
If post #20 is where you're at now, you're well on your way!
Getting the heat source out from under the leaves is a good move, the leaves are tinder dry by the time you're done. Updraft is good! It keeps the crud out of your ducts without screens or filters. My first try at this in the drum was downdraft, that sucked. I don't think you'll need the middle damper, it would only act as a choke. If you have speed control on your fans, you can throttle it that way.
I just did a quick read through the link about wood igniting at 77 C. I don't know if that directly applies here, but like I said, I wouldn't do this in my house. If all goes well, you'll end up with some nice tobacco. If it doesn't, you could lose more than your tobacco and equipment. How things fail can be more important than how things work, it's the difference between an "aw shit" and a disaster.
If post #20 is where you're at now, you're well on your way!
I wonder if WonderBoard® Backerboard, A fiberglass mesh reinforced-cement backerboard, would work.
It's what's recommended for wall sheeting in wet bathrooms, shower enclosures - better that green gypsum board.
It's what's recommended for wall sheeting in wet bathrooms, shower enclosures - better that green gypsum board.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
I don't know, I used something like it when I redid the bathroom. It seemed kind of porous. If you had to seal it up, it might be a bunch of trouble. If you didn't, it might be OK.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Ya Man Amen! The Ah-shit is what I want to avoid I got this thing I want to just jump in head first and usually crack my skull. The last few years I have tried not to do the head first but at times I just can't help myself. I have a few things to repair first thing and after will shoot over to Lowe's and check out the board want to get a piece and fire check it (will use a torch) than I'll stick a chunk in water for a few hours and see how it sucks it up. If it passes the test I'll use it. The cement board is good stuff but very heavy, hard to work with, and will hold moisture. The thing about it is it won't rot or crumble so is great behind tile but for this I don't think so.
The whole thing here with this thread is to discover flaw with the general idea before wasting time and money by just jumping in.
I am very excited and as you guys who have been involved can see a few flaws have been uncovered. By helping out and working together we may come up with a practical design that will work well.
I think some time this week a build might get started and I will post general drawings, Pics, and Vid so any who want to create their own can just use what is here or refine it further.
The whole thing here with this thread is to discover flaw with the general idea before wasting time and money by just jumping in.
I am very excited and as you guys who have been involved can see a few flaws have been uncovered. By helping out and working together we may come up with a practical design that will work well.
I think some time this week a build might get started and I will post general drawings, Pics, and Vid so any who want to create their own can just use what is here or refine it further.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
That's the general idea! This doesn't need to be a secret.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
haha can we get a second AMEN!
Amen
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
New question FANS? Am thinking from heater (i through 6 away a few months back ...hate to though things out) they could handle the the heat I think but moisture could be a problem. Searched on line all I was seeing were up there in cost and I want to keep this project at around 250 bucks less the controller.
Have you considered squirrel cages with the motor outside the environment? The blower motors from dead clothes dryers usually are still in working condition, the shafts are a bit longer and you can get them free if you're patient and handy. -·-
If you have a fan that can handle 180 degrees you are in good shape. You should never see moisture levels over 95% in the worst case. As long as you do not have condensing moisture you should be fine. In my flue curing chamber I will be using a squirrel cage fan which has the motor out of the curing chamber and cooled by fresh air. Look at my post around #126 and you will see what it is. That fan is rated at 150cfm and can be throttled with a restrictor plate. the blower only cost about $40.00 shipped to my door, for $80.00 you can have 2 of them.
Squirrel cage blowers have been in use for a hundred years and have proven themselves as a reliable way to move air.
Squirrel cage blowers have been in use for a hundred years and have proven themselves as a reliable way to move air.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Will have a look thanks guys
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
thanks guys I was looking at squirrel cage fans on line this morning they would complicate things changing the basic idea. Going to look at heaters I want my air to move straight up through my leaves. Seen some fans that run on 12V and will handel 110C with closed motor.
I got my fan from surplus center, they may have what you need. check thier website
- Status
