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  1. #31
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    Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    Lefty, Coroplast skin on a 2X2 and 1X2 frame. This sounds doable to me without really being familiar with the weight of the Coroplast. I imagine it as fairly light weight material. In fact a kiln does not have to be a rock to work, air tight is more important. I would suggest you work any seems with duct tape as well.

    I am concerned that the frame will support the weight of a door though. You may have some modifications to work out to make that one work. again keeping it insulated will be a must.

    Otherwise the formula really is

    Box + Heat + moisture = kiln. keeping the heat and moisture in the box is the hard part.

  2. #32
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    Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    Coroplast looks just like corrugated paper/cardboard (typical box material), except it is a plastic material. Yeah, very light weight, and fairly stiff - that's why it's so good as a yard sign material....

    Yes, I'm thinking about the door/frame weight also. I like the idea of a stiff door, that will be easy to open, and easy to install seals around. On the frame, I may keep just the frame at the door, and the stop, and cut off all the other excess wood frame.
    I will cut the door frame at the top & bottom to fit the top & bottom of the whole kiln frame, using the heavier 2x2's of the top/bottom frame for more rigidity. I'll paint the cheapo wood door with polyurethane, so it won't warp in the wet exposure. I may have to add several latches around the door, to get a snug fit.

    normal silver/grey duct tape sucks, won't last long in a wet environment. The black duct tape is more permanent.

  3. #33
    redneck grower Chicken's Avatar
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    Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    i believe i have got all the bugs out of my kiln,,,

    moved the light and remounted it,,,,moved the crock-pot,, repositioned the fan,,, closed down a lot of unused space,,,,

    i need to get pictures of the up-dated version,,,

    so far im holding 120 degrees at 65% humidity,,,,and my leaves are in light case,,, i had issues with them drying out,,,

    im gonna get exact measurements when i take the photo's....

    allthough i believe i have mastered the elements,,,'' FINALLY''<----------

  4. #34
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    Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by LeftyRighty View Post

    normal silver/grey duct tape sucks, won't last long in a wet environment. The black duct tape is more permanent.
    Even silver Duct tape comes in different grades. Sounds like you have used the low grade in the past. Yes it is junk. Your comment reminded me of a thread I read a while back. there is a Military Grade of duct tape. The info made the claim that it is the best duct tape made, or something close to that. I know that is not a lot of help. I will poke around my usual haunts and see if I can locate it again. The conversation included a link to buy it. The Coroplast is what I was thinking it was. I have a small post office box made of it. Never knew what it was called before. The post office gave us the box because we regularly have lots of mail we hand carry to the post office. strong stuff for the weight it is. I think you kiln will withstand a bit of abuse.

  5. #35
    Moderator Jitterbugdude's Avatar
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    Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    The military calls it " 100 mile an hour tape". I think it is officially called something like, "tape, reinforcing"

  6. #36
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    Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by deluxestogie View Post

    (Cheese caves are kept in the neighborhood of 50ºF, and this does not inhibit mold growth.)

    Bob
    Interesting

    Years ago I did quite a lot of spelunking in eastern PA wet limestone caves and knew a fellow with one on his property. The little pond inside was always at 52 deg F +/- 1 deg. I know this because I helped him build a heat sink/exchanger for his whole house heat pump. We measured repeatedly, winter and summer to check the temperature change as he pumped energy into and out of the pond. Even on the hottest and coldest days the temp stayed right close to 52 deg. His heat pump was much more efficient than air exchanger units.

    I've never tried making cheese. What kinds do you make?

    John

  7. #37
    Administrator deluxestogie's Avatar
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    Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    John,
    I make various cheddars, colby, feta, cream cheese (several varieties), canestrato, and a host of soft cheeses. The soft ones are something you can think of today, and be serving it tomorrow. The hard cheeses are months away.

    Nikki Carrol, "the Cheese Queen," lives up in your neck of the woods, and offers 1 day classes. http://www.cheesemaking.com/

    Bob

  8. #38
    Founding Member BarG's Avatar
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    Re: Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by deluxestogie View Post
    This is a generic design for a 2'x2'x4' kiln box. The scaling is for 2"x2" and 2"x3" members (real measurement). If the panels are plank or plywood, then no diagonal braces are really needed at this size. If building this of wood, the parts will be less affected by humidity if the parts are attached using brass wood screws.

    It shows a general location for a water heater thermostat, the back of which must be exposed to the interior. A notch is shown for running electrical wire into the box.

    The door is elevated from touching the floor by the thickness of the kiln floor. Any hinges can be used, but the design provides room for a brass piano hinge along the length of the door.

    Insulation can be added to the interior (between the posts and diagonals) or as sheet to the exterior, including the bottom.

    The edge of the box that makes contact with the door should be fitted with folded PVC weather strip all around.

    For safety, the thermostat exterior should be covered by a plastic utility service box large enough to cut out its back (and provided with a means of locking or otherwise securing it, if children may be around it). The remaining back flange of the utility box is then drilled and screwed onto the side of the kiln.

    The dimensions chosen are large enough to accommodate hanging leaf, while still allowing room for a Crockpot at the bottom. Interior hardware is whatever seems convenient for you--wire, hooks, rod, shelves.

    Any comments are welcome (even harsh words).

    Bob

    EDIT: The thought just occurred to me that if the unit described is considered a module, and provided with removable side walls and lid, then multiple units could be bolted together to create, for example, a double-wide or double-height kiln, with double doors. With bolts and wing-nuts attaching adjacent modules, the larger assembly could be separated for moving. The lid can also be hinged for top access. The fewer exterior walls for the same enclosed volume would increase thermal efficiency. All the components could probably be cut and pre-drilled as a kit.
    Bob, Iv'e been toying with the idea of finding some of that 1 1/2" styrofoam insulation with a 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" wood frame and sandwichicing between 2 pieces of 1/4" plywood like a hollow core[lightweight door]. You could determine dimensions and precut all panels prior to construction. The solid wood edges would allow for drilling and attaching screws. There is also a variety of knockdown hdw. available through various hdw. supply outlets. There should be little warpage and light weight shipping if panels and styrofoam are glued together with simple non toxic. titebond II wood glue. and insulation would be protected from abuse. You could even use an interior stain grade 1/4" panel on ext. and an exterior grade 3/8" panel on interior to handle humidity and exterior decor.
    Just an idea.

    Edit: Interior could also be made with 1/8" shower paneling as long as no holes were made to allow moisture in lamination. It would be lighter and easier to clean. [A work in progress heh].

    Tim
    Last edited by BarG; 04-07-2012 at 12:08 PM.

  9. #39
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    Re: Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by BarG View Post
    Bob, Iv'e been toying with the idea of finding some of that 1 1/2" styrofoam insulation with a 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" wood frame and sandwichicing between 2 pieces of 1/4" plywood like a hollow core[lightweight door]. You could determine dimensions and precut all panels prior to construction. The solid wood edges would allow for drilling and attaching screws. There is also a variety of knockdown hdw. available through various hdw. supply outlets. There should be little warpage and light weight shipping if panels and styrofoam are glued together with simple non toxic. titebond II wood glue. and insulation would be protected from abuse. You could even use an interior stain grade 1/4" panel on ext. and an exterior grade 3/8" panel on interior to handle humidity and exterior decor.
    Just an idea.

    Tim
    Good idea Tim,

    Do you think shipping costs for the kit might be prohibitive?

    John

  10. #40
    Founding Member BarG's Avatar
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    Re: Industrial/resourceful entrepreneur's and product developers wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by johnlee1933 View Post
    Good idea Tim,

    Do you think shipping costs for the kit might be prohibitive?

    John
    It's all size and weight related John, any thing under 70 lbs. I believe ships standard. 70 lbs, and above would be freight. a light weight kiln should fall into standard shipping prices as long as packages are kept below maybe 6 or 7' in length, Ive shipped lumber up to 7' and 70 lbs. regular usps.

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