This thread can serve for discussing various press arrangements, specs, the Perique process itself, and results any members obtain (from whatever Perique method they try).
Although Perique is a named variety of tobacco (which makes a great, mild cigar filler, even without kilning), in this thread I'm speaking exclusively of the Perique pressure-curing method, rather than the variety. It can be used with most varieties of tobacco. The fermentation is so complete that there is not much of a varietal nuance left.
What is Perique
Perique tobacco, which is a very dark brown when finished, has been variously described as "smelling like manure" to smelling "like prunes" or like wine made from grapes affected by botrytis (which shrivels and concentrates the grape). Perique tobacco has a high (alkaline) pH. Although its nicotine level may be no greater than other tobacco, the high pH dramatically increases nicotine absorption through the mucous membranes of the mouth and nasopharynx. So smoking straight Perique is not a common practice.
How is Perique Used?
One excellent use of Perique in tobacco blending is using it to neutralize the pH of more acidic tobacco, such as flue-cured tobacco (the method, rather than the class). In a pipe, straight flue-cured easily causes tongue bite. Blending flue-cured with Perique (in a ratio ranging from 2 parts flue-cured to 1 part Perique, up to 1:1) can completely eliminate the bite, while increasing the nicotine hit. That is, when added to a typical English blend, Perique adds "smoothness."
Perique is sometimes used within commercial cigarette blends, and was used in the past as a minor blender in some American cigars.
My goals:
How Is Perique Made
Having read what there is in the historic literature (and watched the various Perique videos), I determined that the Perique process starts with color-cured leaf (stemmed, if the stem is not yet cured). This leaf can be formed into a twist, but that is not necessary. The leaf is then placed under enough pressure to express the juices from within the leaf lamina. The leaf is left to steep in this heady brew for about 3 months.
The old literature states that the gooey leaf was briefly released from pressure every 24 hours for the first 10 days, in order to allow the juice to be reabsorbed by the leaf, after which the pressure was again applied. This interval was increased thereafter to once or twice a week. Every few weeks, the leaf was removed, individually separated, and allowed to dry, only to be returned to the pressure process.
The typical duration of pressure treatment is 3 to 6 months. In St. James Parish, Louisiana, where Perique originated, the summer and winter temps are moderated by the proximity of the Mississippi River. So 60-80ºF is the usual range year-round.
The only real clue to the amount of pressure used is from the historic description of the dimensions of the "box" used, the length of the lever arm of the press, and the absolute weight hung on the press arm. It comes out in the range of 30-50 psi.
I believe that all that is required is to apply sufficient pressure to disrupt the cells of the lamina and express the juice. Temperature extremes should be avoided or mitigated.
Lexan jar with bail lid, purchased at Walmart (~$10).
The mesh is a plastic craft disk from the fabric store. It will go directly against the tobacco. The HDPE follower is from a cheese mold that I already had. (http://www.cheesemaking.com/store/p/45-Hard-Cheese-Mold-Small-1.html) The follower is not required.
This is a two-headed bar clamp from Lowe's (~$20). Max force rated at 400 pounds.
One 4" round untreated wood fence post from Lowe's (~$6). This will fit inside the Lexan jar.
A cut section of the bottom of the fence post can be used as the only follower for the press (clamp). Several such sections of varying length will allow different levels of tobacco in the jar, since the range of the clamp screw is not long enough to reach well into the Lexan jar. A long (the remaining) length of the post can be used for initial packing of the tobacco into the jar.
Since the two-headed clamp stands upright on its own, it will continue to do so with the Lexan jar in place.
It would be handy to remove the bail lid from the jar (just bend a metal retainer), but it should work fine with the lid still attached.
I haven't gotten to the point of starting the process yet.
Bob
Although Perique is a named variety of tobacco (which makes a great, mild cigar filler, even without kilning), in this thread I'm speaking exclusively of the Perique pressure-curing method, rather than the variety. It can be used with most varieties of tobacco. The fermentation is so complete that there is not much of a varietal nuance left.
What is Perique
Perique tobacco, which is a very dark brown when finished, has been variously described as "smelling like manure" to smelling "like prunes" or like wine made from grapes affected by botrytis (which shrivels and concentrates the grape). Perique tobacco has a high (alkaline) pH. Although its nicotine level may be no greater than other tobacco, the high pH dramatically increases nicotine absorption through the mucous membranes of the mouth and nasopharynx. So smoking straight Perique is not a common practice.
How is Perique Used?
One excellent use of Perique in tobacco blending is using it to neutralize the pH of more acidic tobacco, such as flue-cured tobacco (the method, rather than the class). In a pipe, straight flue-cured easily causes tongue bite. Blending flue-cured with Perique (in a ratio ranging from 2 parts flue-cured to 1 part Perique, up to 1:1) can completely eliminate the bite, while increasing the nicotine hit. That is, when added to a typical English blend, Perique adds "smoothness."
Perique is sometimes used within commercial cigarette blends, and was used in the past as a minor blender in some American cigars.
My goals:
- to set up a Perique press for a small quantity of tobacco
- to avoid any construction
- to use only components that are readily available
- to have a cookie jar-sized press that will stand by itself
How Is Perique Made
Having read what there is in the historic literature (and watched the various Perique videos), I determined that the Perique process starts with color-cured leaf (stemmed, if the stem is not yet cured). This leaf can be formed into a twist, but that is not necessary. The leaf is then placed under enough pressure to express the juices from within the leaf lamina. The leaf is left to steep in this heady brew for about 3 months.
The old literature states that the gooey leaf was briefly released from pressure every 24 hours for the first 10 days, in order to allow the juice to be reabsorbed by the leaf, after which the pressure was again applied. This interval was increased thereafter to once or twice a week. Every few weeks, the leaf was removed, individually separated, and allowed to dry, only to be returned to the pressure process.
The typical duration of pressure treatment is 3 to 6 months. In St. James Parish, Louisiana, where Perique originated, the summer and winter temps are moderated by the proximity of the Mississippi River. So 60-80ºF is the usual range year-round.
The only real clue to the amount of pressure used is from the historic description of the dimensions of the "box" used, the length of the lever arm of the press, and the absolute weight hung on the press arm. It comes out in the range of 30-50 psi.
I believe that all that is required is to apply sufficient pressure to disrupt the cells of the lamina and express the juice. Temperature extremes should be avoided or mitigated.
Lexan jar with bail lid, purchased at Walmart (~$10).
The mesh is a plastic craft disk from the fabric store. It will go directly against the tobacco. The HDPE follower is from a cheese mold that I already had. (http://www.cheesemaking.com/store/p/45-Hard-Cheese-Mold-Small-1.html) The follower is not required.
This is a two-headed bar clamp from Lowe's (~$20). Max force rated at 400 pounds.
One 4" round untreated wood fence post from Lowe's (~$6). This will fit inside the Lexan jar.
A cut section of the bottom of the fence post can be used as the only follower for the press (clamp). Several such sections of varying length will allow different levels of tobacco in the jar, since the range of the clamp screw is not long enough to reach well into the Lexan jar. A long (the remaining) length of the post can be used for initial packing of the tobacco into the jar.
Since the two-headed clamp stands upright on its own, it will continue to do so with the Lexan jar in place.
It would be handy to remove the bail lid from the jar (just bend a metal retainer), but it should work fine with the lid still attached.
I haven't gotten to the point of starting the process yet.
- pack in the leaf
- tamp down then clamp
- release the clamp
- add more leaf
- continue repeating until all the leaf is gone, or the jar is 3/4 filled
- apply pressure gradually (perhaps over days) until the juices are expressed
- release pressure weekly to allow absorption of liquid
- monthly (or at least once at the end of the first month) remove the leaf, separate it (a messy proposition) and then return it to pressure
- after several months (during which it will stink), it should begin to take on a rich, fruity smell.
Bob
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