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Excellent read on curing for the begginner

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Fisherman

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http://archive.org/stream/cu31924003314469#page/n29/mode/2up

Is old book but talks on my level. Very easy to understand.

The book will not let you cut and paste but the section on the "New Curing Method" Is really wild and I think before it's time.

The author stresses experience and observation and helps the reader visualize some of the terms that other publications take for granted that you are to know and understand like "sponging". pages 28 and 29.

The "limbering up" procedure should help some of us in our early attempts at understanding the curing process which most of our members are just now getting into. Including myself.

It is hard to tell what is needed at what stage. Maybe it is more moisture or more heat. I think this read will help some of us.
 

Fisherman

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Is funny how this curing method for flue cured bright, in this book, is done on whole plants not primed leaves. The "schedule" or timetable is almost the same as the chart we all seem to be using which I "assumed" is for primed leaf.

Is no wonder we are getting thru quicker than the table IF it was for whole stalk :)

The author describes both sponging and reddning or spotting and gives a guideline for preventing these indicators.

Also he calls the "yellowing period" as the "steaming" period as well. Keeping in mind this is a very old book. I would say that humidity is important in this stage.
He also goes into detail about how to tell if and when the run is going thru a "sweat". And steps to stop it.

His whole attitude is that "experience is the key and curing is easy after you learn a few basic signs and methods"

He also mentions letting majority of leaf go to yellow and the rest becoming a "pea-green" is ok to leave yellowing stage and fix color......

He also mentions that at the time that "tobacco cured with a slight green color which dissapears before it is sent to the market is the fashionable color for fancy stock" This was 1895 tho :) But sound in the fact that some green will turn yellow during later steps in the cure and is better than over reddened or off color tobacco that imply damage and loss of quality.

I just wish it would allow you to cut and paste from the link. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
 

Knucklehead

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Click on the link in the top left of the page. It will take you to another page. Click on "pdf" to open the file in pdf format. Save the file. You can then copy and paste, but it comes out funny looking. You'll have to play with the text and spacing.

















 

MarcL

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I really dig how this book will read to you. Though I will usually text to speech with my iMac by highlighting and ctrl ± s to do it 
 

deluxestogie

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Keep in mind that the "preferred" color of tobacco is a market demand that has changed and continues to change. Their goal (in the late 19th century) was to fashion the color of the flue-cured tobacco product to capture whatever color of leaf was in highest demand (highest market price) at that time.

While some flue-cure color results actually indicate poor smoking qualities, other non-lemon colors are excellent smoking tobacco, though the tastes and aromas do vary by color.

Bob

NOTE: options for downloading: http://archive.org/details/majorraglandsins00ragl
 
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AmaxB

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If Flue Curing I would strongly recommend reading pages 28 & 29 three times... there is much I see from my limited experience that is on target. We are not bulk curing (most of us anyway) but hanging our leaf.
 

AmaxB

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For me the thing is - The whole leaf will not be green if it is it was not ready. Pea green for me is half or a third lighter than the link referenced. It is really a judgement call...
If the majority has yellowed move forward.
The short book is a great guide - If chamber is up to the job - you follow the direction - pay attention to what is going on with the leaf - you soon understand what is good and what is bad.
I say it this way because you can't be told, you must see it done, better yet do it.
I believe the book hits if not all most of the important points. Thanks for sharing it!
 

DGBAMA

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Still reading, but there are some good insights into understanding the "process" and how it works. Will definitely help me utilize my curing chamber more effectively.
 

Fisherman

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Wonder what he means here about progressing from 100 to 110 deg F?

Quote;
But it is safe not to advance above one hundred and ten degrees until the tails begin to curl up at the ends.

Which part of leaf is he talking about? I am assuming the tips but is he possibly talking about the stalk end being the tail?
 

DGBAMA

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Wonder what he means here about progressing from 100 to 110 deg F?

Quote;
But it is safe not to advance above one hundred and ten degrees until the tails begin to curl up at the ends.

Which part of leaf is he talking about? I am assuming the tips but is he possibly talking about the stalk end being the tail?

In the 4 runs i have done, first hints of brown have shown at the tip of the leaf......and it normally begins to curl a bit......so iwould agree with you.
 

Bex

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An old thread, but as a beginner and still learning, I just found this, and am in the midst of this excellent read (thanks for posting it).

I am curious about the technique of 'sapping', listed in this book - getting the leaf warmed in the chamber at the onset to about 90F, and then quickly climbing the temp up to 125F, holding it for a few minutes and letting it then quickly drop back to 90F, in an effort to open the sap cells and and facilitate the yellowing process. Has anyone ever tried this in their flue curing??
 

deluxestogie

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125 degrees F will kill the leaf. The leaf won't die at this temp, so long as it can compensate with evaporative cooling, which is dependent on its not wilting (running out of cell water). That sounds pretty tricky to me.

Bob

EDIT: The same is true of humans exposed to 125 degrees F. So long as they can evaporatively cool by sweating, they survive. Once a person is dehydrated to the point that they no longer sweat, then they die.
 

Bex

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which is dependent on its not wilting (running out of cell water).

Ah, I have been trying to ascertain exactly what 'wilting' really means - not just kind of 'collapsing' (which is how I envision this, as the leaf just kind of losing its shape and structure) but actually losing its cell water. Frankly, I'm finding this whole process somewhat tricky - adding another tricky factor into this is probably not a good idea. I'll stay away from sapping. Thanks.
 

Smokin Harley

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saved it ....I'll read it more in depth once I get time this fall. Looks like a nice old fashioned instructional. Cool illustrations as well.
 

AmaxB

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I forgot about this one and am sure I have it some place filed away. It is raining and I have to wait for some paint to dry (no fun to watch) so I downloaded it again and will read once more.... instead of annoying all of you good people with silly post.
 
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