Buy Tobacco Leaf Online | Whole Leaf Tobacco

Pics of your sticks!!

Status
Not open for further replies.

GreenDragon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,980
Points
113
Location
Charlotte, NC
How long do let yours dry? I’ve been rolling decent looking sticks and letting them sit on my desk for about a day and the wrapper always cracks as it dries.

Sounds like they are drying too fast. You must have very low ambient humidity or are stretching the wrappers too much. Try letting them sit in a “dry box” to equilibrate. Go to your local cigar shop and buy an empty wood cigar box - usually they will sell them for $1-2. Season it by putting a slightly damp paper towel in it for one day. Then place your fresh rolled cigars in it for a few days before moving them to your humidor / smoking them.
 

tullius

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2019
Messages
892
Points
93
Location
NE Ohio
How long do let yours dry? I’ve been rolling decent looking sticks and letting them sit on my desk for about a day and the wrapper always cracks as it dries.
what greendragon said. Don tossed me a empty WLT spanish cedar churchill box the first time I was in there: the wood on one side of the lid was split but I glued it back together and that's one of my dry down boxes, works great. It's an intermediate step between fresh rolled wet and 70% rh in the humidor. It stays around 40-60% rh depending on how many sticks are acclimating in there. If it's winter they stay in there around 1-2 days before going in the humidor, summer 1-2 weeks.
 

Jb00

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
90
Points
53
Location
Missouri
Sounds like they are drying too fast. You must have very low ambient humidity or are stretching the wrappers too much. Try letting them sit in a “dry box” to equilibrate. Go to your local cigar shop and buy an empty wood cigar box - usually they will sell them for $1-2. Season it by putting a slightly damp paper towel in it for one day. Then place your fresh rolled cigars in it for a few days before moving them to your humidor / smoking them.
I appreciate it. I live in Missouri and I can attest it’s very dry during the winter. I’ll give this a try and see how it comes out. Thanks!
 

MarcL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
4,413
Points
113
Location
Central Maryland
How long do let yours dry? I’ve been rolling decent looking sticks and letting them sit on my desk for about a day and the wrapper always cracks as it dries.
It will help to have the bunches dry to a degree before you put a wrapper on them.
Time will have to do with things like how wet they are to start, how you like them to smoke, how dry the air is.
You really shouldn't leave them in dry conditions for to long.
Try wicking moister out in a more controlled setting. In a container. Use some dry scrap that can be rotated out.
For example; say you take a container that is 1/3 full of cigars. Use 1/3 of dry leaf to wick out the moister and 1/3 of air. Have another 1/3 of dry leaf outside that container to rotate with the leaf that is in the container.
 

waikikigun

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
1,441
Points
113
My first attempt as some Lanceros. Wrapper is Ecuadorian criollo, binder olor ligero, filler 1.5 olor seco .5 olor ligero.View attachment 29474

Any suggestions on what may work well with olor seco and ligero? I'm putting together my first wlt order.

View attachment 29476
Habano seco probably. Corojo ligero or viso MIGHT. Might not, of course....
 

GreenDragon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,980
Points
113
Location
Charlotte, NC
Inspired by Bob's book, I decided to make a few "American" style cigars. Two blends, one free hand, one using a mold, 4 sticks each. Tobacco is a blend of Big Bonner's, my 2018 grow, and WLT.

Blend #1, free hand:
Filler: Comstock Spanish, Little Dutch, Silver River, Havana, Corojo 99
Binder: PA, Wrapper: Ct. Broadleaf
IMG_0812.jpg


Blend #2, Mold:
Filler: Havana 263, Penn. Red, Corojo 99, Fl. Sumatra, Dark Fired (1" sliver)
Binder: PA, Wrapper: Ct. Broadleaf
IMG_0822.jpg
 

Nathan Esq

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
91
Points
33
Location
Florida
GreenDragon.- I have a question on American varieties like Big Bonners tobacco. Since most common cigar tobaccos are air dried and then fermented. Do the american tobaccos need fermentation since they are air cured? Plus the american tobacco is not separated by priming, I've seen "midstalk" which I'm guessing is viso-ish? Disclamer:
I'm new and have no real idea what I'm talking about.
 

waikikigun

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
1,441
Points
113
The sticks I rolled last night on my weekly live roll on YT.

o8CGhkP.jpg
 

GreenDragon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,980
Points
113
Location
Charlotte, NC
GreenDragon.- I have a question on American varieties like Big Bonners tobacco. Since most common cigar tobaccos are air dried and then fermented. Do the american tobaccos need fermentation since they are air cured? Plus the american tobacco is not separated by priming, I've seen "midstalk" which I'm guessing is viso-ish? Disclamer:
I'm new and have no real idea what I'm talking about.

I will defer to @deluxestogie and @BigBonner for details. Lots of info on this in general in the FAQ and Key Forum Threads above; I’m a beginner myself. In a nutshell “curing “ or “color curing” refers to the process of transitioning the leaf from green to brown in a controlled manner. The leaf is then aged or fermented. While generally interchangeable terms, both refer to the process of mellowing the leaf by reducing sugar and protein (ammonia) content through the application and manipulation of time, humidity, and temperature. All tobacco varieties benefit from this process. This can be accomplished by hanging in a barn for several years, the meticulous process of maintaining pilones, or storing as bales on pallets. I “ferment” my tobacco in Rubbermaid tubs in my attic, which is pretty effective and free in the Texas heat. I have observed that people tend to refer to “fermenting” when they are trying to speed the process in some way, and aging as leaving time and nature to take care of it.

Again, this is my limited understanding and will not be offended if the more senior members can provide additional or contradictory information.
 

deluxestogie

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
24,020
Points
113
Location
near Blacksburg, VA
All tobacco varieties benefit from this process.
I agree. I kiln all my home-grown cigar leaf. I kiln my home-grown sun-cured Orientals. I kiln my home-grown dark air and burley, etc. I even kilned the "Latakia" that I made this past year.

WLT cigar leaf is already well fermented and aged, and further kilning is unlikely to make a significant difference. Whenever I receive leaf of any kind, that has not been well fermented, I always kiln it for 4 to 8 weeks, prior to using it. This never fails to noticeably, significantly improve its smoking quality. Do you need to kiln it. Well...no. If you like it as is, then that's fine.

For cigars, some leaf that has not been fermented is simply not smokable for four to six years. PA Red, Long Red, Little Dutch and Dutch Ohio aren't bad, when only air-cured, then aged for a year or so. But they are worlds better after I kiln them.

Bob
 

GreenDragon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,980
Points
113
Location
Charlotte, NC
Smoking my American blend #1. I’m really digging this. Does not have the deep earthy, chocolate, or barnyard flavors of a SA cigar. It’s lighter, more floral, with a slightly sweet caramel note to it. Aftertaste is pleasant. And it’s not lacking in the Nic content either. Not saying it’s better or worse than a “Cuban” type cigar, just a pleasant change.
(If anyone is curious, that’s a glass of Guinness it’s perched upon.)

82447D3F-04F0-4D96-8277-AFBF4D5FD5BC.jpeg
 

waikikigun

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
1,441
Points
113
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top