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Heat bonding Agribon 15 seams for bud bags

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leverhead

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For me, sewing is the worst part of making bud bags. Handling Agribon 15 is hard enough for cutting, sewing it was not something that I was looking forward to. Agribon is made from spun Polypropylene, it gets soft and sticky at clothes iron temperatures. That makes it a good candidate for heat bonding/welding the seams. The trick is to make it stick to itself, not everything else it comes into contact with. Parchment paper from the shelf right next to the wax paper at the grocery store works just fine as a non stick surface and is relatively inexpensive.

Fixture.JPG

The fixture I made to hold everything snugly together in position and keep the Agribon covered with a non stick surface, is pretty easy to make. It's basically three layers thick of corrugated cardboard. A base layer 8"(20cm) X 48"(122cm) long, corrugations running the long way. The middle layer is the same as the first with a 40"(102cm) slit down the center line, the long way. A 5/16"(8mm) X 39 3/8"(1m) long wooden dowel is attached to the top surface through this slit with parchment paper the length of the dowel.

Dowel.JPGDowel a.JPGDowel b.JPGDowel c.JPG

The top layer is cut 9 1/2"(24cm) X 48"(122cm) long, similar to the other two layers, the extra 1 1/2"(4cm) of width is partially cut from the bottom and bent up to form a stiffening rib running the long way. There is a window 1/2"(12.7mm) wide X 40"(102cm) long in this layer that should center over the slit in the middle layer.

Window.JPG

I've allowed 2"(5cm) at one end of the assembly as a hinge, so both the window and slit start at 5" from the hinge end and finish 3" from the far end. The bottom surface of the top layer is covered with parchment with just enough extra to cover the dowel snugly. The parchment is stapled in place, glue doesn't stick to it.

Hinge a.JPGHinge b.JPGHinge c.JPG

 

leverhead

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Bonding the seams

As you can see from the video, lay-up is no more than evening up the two layers and placing them on the dowel where you want the seam. Close the top layer of the fixture and you're ready to go. I have the heat set as high as it will go and used no water or steam.

Heat Setting.JPG

The speed at which I move the iron is the only variable. Too fast and you get a poor bond, too slow and you'll melt it too much and will fail on either side of the bond. It's really not that fussy, too fast is very hard to do. Too slow is about half the speed in the video. Another cause of a failed seam is if the top parchment isn't holding everything snug.

Failed Seam.JPG

Seeing a failed seam is pretty easy. Seeing a good seam is more difficult, you'll need good light. Testing a seam, for me, is easier once I pull the bag right side out.

Seam a.JPGSeam b.JPG
 

jekylnz

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.I was using a glue gun..but the more added materials and expenses I can miss out the better. .handy post...bud bags can be a pain in the @$$ to make..especially when you have to do 30-40 or more.

I may have to try my bag sealer to..see if it works
 

leverhead

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.I was using a glue gun..but the more added materials and expenses I can miss out the better. .handy post...bud bags can be a pain in the @$$ to make..especially when you have to do 30-40 or more.

I may have to try my bag sealer to..see if it works

I'm making 360 bags, I won't need all that Preparation H now. I didn't have/try a bag sealer, it might work. The web is pretty open, I'm getting a bond width of about 3/32"(2.4mm). It seems to cross enough fibers to make a good seam.


I think your block of government cheese has out lived its usefulness. I"m guessing a new round of free cheese is just around the corner.

I won't make any first wife jokes.

That's slick!

Thank's, I hope it makes somebody's life easier.
 

deluxestogie

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Clever gadget. For making that many bags, it certainly speeds up the process. I wonder if a Tyvek tag, sandwiched between the layers, and extending toward the inside--sticks out after turning the bag--would also bond. Tyvek is spun HDPE, and might have an incompatible fusing temp.

Bob
 

Mad Oshea

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I like the bags You posted. they look like they will do the job for many a season if You mark the types they baged . But how will You be able to kill the pollen in each as to not cross pollinate. I make Mine as well and also use paint strainers as well. I throw them all at the seasons end. I have even used clear plastic trash can liners as well when I cant do one of the two.
 

Nikfits

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Cool and impressive job for making the Agribon Bags! This will be a time saver.

Thanks for sharing Leverhead.

Gary
 

Knucklehead

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I like the bags You posted. they look like they will do the job for many a season if You mark the types they baged . But how will You be able to kill the pollen in each as to not cross pollinate. I make Mine as well and also use paint strainers as well. I throw them all at the seasons end. I have even used clear plastic trash can liners as well when I cant do one of the two.

Good question. Does anybody have a pollen killing recipe for reusable bags? Bud bags are the biggest expense in a big seed grow out. 5 gal. paint strainers cost me about $1.00 each.
 

leverhead

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Clever gadget. For making that many bags, it certainly speeds up the process. I wonder if a Tyvek tag, sandwiched between the layers, and extending toward the inside--sticks out after turning the bag--would also bond. Tyvek is spun HDPE, and might have an incompatible fusing temp.

Bob

Thank you Bob! I could try some Tyvec to see what happens, I'd be more concerned about the difference in thickness/weight of the two. PP and PE mix pretty well, hot glue is a blend of PP and PE.
 

deluxestogie

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Jessica has assured us that the pollen is not viable after a year.

I have planned to re-use my bags every year, since each is permanently labeled. But when I examine the bags at the end of a season, I am more inclined to toss them. They are grungy, often have stray tobacco seeds tucked into the seams and corners, and just don't have an air of assurance about them.

Agribon-AG15 is inexpensive, when purchased in a 250' roll. (This is my 3rd year on the same roll.) So it comes down to time expenditure to make the bags.

Bob
 

Knucklehead

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Jessica has assured us that the pollen is not viable after a year.

I have planned to re-use my bags every year, since each is permanently labeled. But when I examine the bags at the end of a season, I am more inclined to toss them. They are grungy, often have stray tobacco seeds tucked into the seams and corners, and just don't have an air of assurance about them.

Agribon-AG15 is inexpensive, when purchased in a 250' roll. (This is my 3rd year on the same roll.) So it comes down to time expenditure to make the bags.

Bob

Thanks Bob. I saved all my old grungy bags from last year. I may turn them inside out and see how well they survive a run through the washing machine.
 

Freeotatv

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Thanks for all the suggestions

The fold over and tape is interesting...ive been using that process and it seems to work well.

May try a heat gun process tomorrow...if it works ill post the diy steps.

I have an idea on how to isolate a seam to contain the heat to make an even seam
 

rustycase

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Tnx for the thread, DS!

It's good to know Jessica says the pollen is no longer viable the next year.
I should try re-using my bags... but I generally destroy them cutting them off the pod clusters.

When I made my AGC-15 bags I had folded the seams over nd held the line with a bunch of paper clips, the I whip stitched it.
EZ, and quick enough.
It is also possible to do the same and make use of a common office stapler.
Best
rc

I've only had two types of problems, so far...
First bags were too small, because I'm a cheapskate. I came back round and bit me when they burst from the growth.
2nd problem situation was when some wasps ate holes through a few of the agribon bags. Can't do much about that, they can et through plywood siding! I made another, larger bag, and slipped it over the first, damaged bag.
...
 
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