I'll bet that most university Engineering departments have a 3D printer that could duplicate an intricate pipe bowl from a suitable sintered mineral material--complete with all the holes perfectly formed.
Bob
Bob
Clay Pipes
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Bob,
The main problem with making any 3-D print is the file to load to the printer. The printers themselves are very easy to run. I have personal experience with the Z-print 450 (now the 460 I think). To create a file you have to either scan the object with a 3-D scanner or render it in a software that will output the correct file type. Both options can present their own unique problems. All that said some of the things people are doing with 3-D printers are just amazing.
Pete
The main problem with making any 3-D print is the file to load to the printer. The printers themselves are very easy to run. I have personal experience with the Z-print 450 (now the 460 I think). To create a file you have to either scan the object with a 3-D scanner or render it in a software that will output the correct file type. Both options can present their own unique problems. All that said some of the things people are doing with 3-D printers are just amazing.
Pete
jolly
Well-Known Member
Printing intricate clay pipes would be really neat, though there's only a handfull of people left in the world smoking clays. I could see mass produced meerchaum though.
I love some of the older clays that come up on ebay from time to time. I was very close to winning a pipe that was a hand holding a flower bouquet -- very intricate design, no visible seams -- just gorgeous. Got out of my price range though.
For handmade pipes that smoke fantastic I go here. Great handmade pipes.
http://www.dawnmist.org/pipesale.htm
I love some of the older clays that come up on ebay from time to time. I was very close to winning a pipe that was a hand holding a flower bouquet -- very intricate design, no visible seams -- just gorgeous. Got out of my price range though.
For handmade pipes that smoke fantastic I go here. Great handmade pipes.
http://www.dawnmist.org/pipesale.htm
MarcL
Well-Known Member
really very neat
everything is out of stock?
jolly
Well-Known Member
She stated at the top of the page she's taking a break till March. Actually I was going to post the link sooner, but she had taken down all her product listings so it was totally bare. At least you can see what will be coming in march, plus whatever unique runs she does for the upcoming season.
MarcL
Well-Known Member
I should've started at the top. I was looking for the prices. really nice looking.
jolly
Well-Known Member
They're the best smokers I have. The draw is really open, more like a briar. A lot of makers use a smaller needle or wire to make the draws, and when the clay shrinks they get restricted. Her's have a large diameter draw.
CrazyCatman
Member
I have a nice, longstemmed clay pipe - sadly they are very fragile and I have attempted to repair mine when it have broken off at various medieval festivals during our relaxing hours in the evening, so I am considering a churchwarden or maybe to learn how to repair my clay pipes with clay 
I have two clay pipe; the long one (last used on International Pipe Smokers Day 2015) and a short one with wine ornaments; this one is sadly broken and I don't have the mouthpiece (glaced part of the stem) - but I hope to be able to fix it some day, somehow... Maybe I should just have a part of what's left of the stem sanded a little and then glaced...
But, unlike Jolly, my clay pipes are not the most used in my collection; I mainly smoke my Meerschaum (a Bucaneer from Tanganyika and a Peterson) or briar - depending on the occasion and location.
I have two clay pipe; the long one (last used on International Pipe Smokers Day 2015) and a short one with wine ornaments; this one is sadly broken and I don't have the mouthpiece (glaced part of the stem) - but I hope to be able to fix it some day, somehow... Maybe I should just have a part of what's left of the stem sanded a little and then glaced...
But, unlike Jolly, my clay pipes are not the most used in my collection; I mainly smoke my Meerschaum (a Bucaneer from Tanganyika and a Peterson) or briar - depending on the occasion and location.
jolly
Well-Known Member
I have a nice, longstemmed clay pipe - sadly they are very fragile and I have attempted to repair mine when it have broken off at various medieval festivals during our relaxing hours in the evening, so I am considering a churchwarden or maybe to learn how to repair my clay pipes with clay
I have two clay pipe; the long one (last used on International Pipe Smokers Day 2015) and a short one with wine ornaments; this one is sadly broken and I don't have the mouthpiece (glaced part of the stem) - but I hope to be able to fix it some day, somehow... Maybe I should just have a part of what's left of the stem sanded a little and then glaced...
But, unlike Jolly, my clay pipes are not the most used in my collection; I mainly smoke my Meerschaum (a Bucaneer from Tanganyika and a Peterson) or briar - depending on the occasion and location.
My efforts to repair pipes have been just to super glue them. This works, but it means I can't ever fire clean them again. While you're investigating repairing, I'd suggest checking the link I posted above. Heather has updated her site and has tons of pipes in the 1600's style. Hers are very sturdy, and there's some shorter stem ones that would be great for clenching and less likely to break. I don't have any from this period because the bowls are very small (as tobacco was new, which means it was very expensive). As tobacco production became more common, pipe bowls got larger. My preference is for pipes in the 1700's through the mid 1800's. These would still be considered small by modern briar pipe standards (heavily influenced now by Italian and Dutch -- huge!). Check out her site. The prices are great -- and if you're a re-enactor it's probably more accurate to get a new one rather than show up with a visibly repaired pipe since these items were considered disposable.
CrazyCatman
Member
It seems like I can't repair my then; as I have also in the first many times super glued it; but they have later broken the same place and this time I have also tried, but each time they are glued, I first sanded the contact surfaces, but it was not always equal; the last time I could not make them fit 100% and have been temporary stuck together with some tape until I got a better plan... but seems like glue was a bad thing...? (but handy)
I can't use a pipe for reenactment as tobacco first came in the renescance; the Medieval period (in Denmark) is 1050-1537 and I mainly focus on the later part (1397-1537) and some Viking stuff too (800-1050) on some markets. But I use the pipe in the "after visiting hours relaxing and mead drinking with the other nerds
I have used JB Weld (epoxy) to repair the exhaust manifold of a car engine. It easily withstands heat, and can fill gaps. http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/
Bob
Bob
jolly
Well-Known Member
It seems like I can't repair my then...
But I use the pipe in the "after visiting hours relaxing and mead drinking with the other nerds
Ok, you may want to consider using a tube or ferrule of some sort. Google pipe shank repair for some ideas. The same principles for briar shanks should work for clays, only narrower.
jolly
Well-Known Member
JB weld is pretty awesome stuff. I use it for making home made camping stoves and random epoxy tasks and i've used it for pipe repair. It would definitely withstand the heat of smoking if your break was near the bowl. I typically won't repair a pipe with a break within a half inch of the bowl for fear of the glue heating up and releasing anything toxic, even if it's rated for that temp.
But it wouldn't withstand a fire cleaning. It's rated for 500 degrees, but I think a hardwood fire is north of 800. That's the real problem I have with breaks. Even with a hardcore repair you can't fire clean it, so once it's turned greasy black, it's done. You gotta ditch it. I've tried firing only the bowl with a flame, but it's a risk as you may crack the pipe due to the heat differential.
The other consideration is that it dries pretty dark gray whereas superglue is clear. If your only goal is keeping the pipe together, JB weld will work well. Don't block the airway with it! It can squish in there when you press the two pieces together. When you press the two pieces together don't use much. Then apply it to the outside and build it up. The pipe I did that on didn't break in that spot again -- the bowl broke later.
Whatever you do, just remember these things are meant to be disposable. In my experience they are much more disposable than a corncob pipe though they're often double the price.
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