Phoenix, AZ Grow Blog - 1st Try

[Old Putt Cigars]

I’m starting this belated grow blog for the following reason: When I started this “growing tobacco in a pail” project on 1-1-14 from seed, I was unable to find information about doing so in the Phoenix Valley. For anyone else adventurous enough to try it, I would like to add the Two Cents I have collected over the last six months (wow, is that cheap labor). Will add as time allows.

I think the Working Title should be: What I've learned so far when growing tobacco in the Phoenix Hellish, Unforgiving Sun & Oppressive, Overwhelming Heat…err... pardon me, sorry – Desert in Summer.

No. 1 – Please understand - I do not despise the heat! Were it not for the heat, even more (if there are anymore) Californians would relocate to Phoenix.

Now Then – Jan. 1, 2014. I started with 3 trays of 36 cells. The seeds germinated in 4 to 10 days depending on variety. I used Burpee’s 36-Cell Self-Watering Greenhouse Kit to start the seed inside the house - they worked great. They keep the soil wet constantly until germination. I used a 4’ shop light as a grow light placed 6” above the trays.

Tray #1 (6 Varieties): When the indoor seedlings started to take root & grow, I removed the water pad that keeps them wet, the lid that keeps them covered, and started to bottom watered them as the top soil started to dry. This was the proper way.

Tray #2 (Same 6 Varieties): I allowed the soil to remain water soaked far too long (after taking root), planted them anyway, and I can see that they will not achieve full size when mature and will not recover from my mistake.

Tray #3 (Same 6 Varieties): I removed them from the water pad and removed the cover for air flow but ignored the drying top soil too long hoping the roots would grow deeper and stronger to find the bottom water - They Died. They did not yet have a root system mature enough to seek out water! Suffice it to say that I've made at least my share of mistakes.

Pictures are of Tray #1 on 3-23-14:

 

[ArizonaDave]

Woah! Great job! Looks like you have a jump on my growing! A friendly neighborhood race is on!!!

You can always give me pointers!

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

April 1[SUP]st[/SUP], 2014: At 60-90 days the seedlings were 2-3 inches tall with 6-8 leaves. I transitioned the seedlings by moving the seedling tray outside in shade (under my patio) for 2-3 hrs. per day for the first few days adding an additional hour or two each day for the next several days.

After 8-10 days of full shade in the trays, I transplanted to well drained pails (1” hole in the bottom center). The pails sit on Arizona landscape gravel so they will drain. If they were on dirt, I would have had to add gravel to the bottom of the pail before filling with potting soil so they would drain. I filled 7/8 full with hand turned and fluffed potting soil. I wet the soil thoroughly so that it would hold its shape and slightly mounded the soil up in the middle of the pail. I made a hole in the top of the mound large enough to accept the seedlings roots and the seedlings trunk up to the bottom leaves and pressed the soil closed lightly to force out any air pockets. Mounding the soil allowed thorough watering up to the bottom of the plant without forcing the plant to stand in water until the pail drained. Watered well again and placed the transplants in partial sun. I use a big mesquite tree with morning sun underneath and dappled sun during mid-day and afternoons. After partial sun for 7-10 days, I moved to a permanent or semi-permanent location in full sun.

After transplant to pails and even in partial shade the plants drooped in the new environment. Plant droop is normal I think; the roots are growing below the surface and the plants recovered in a few days and started to grow above ground.
I tried washing the roots at transplant to pail, and also transplanting the entire root ball with starting soil from the cells still attached. Mine do well when the entire seedling root/dirt ball and all is transplanted and not as well when the starting soil is rinsed from the roots. The poor root rinsing outcome is hard to judge; it could be the result of other mistakes I’ve made in some combination that I’m not smart enough to decipher. Whatever the reason, the whole dirt ball worked best for me. To be continued...

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

Woah! Great job! Looks like you have a jump on my growing! A friendly neighborhood race is on!!!

You can always give me pointers!

Be glad to tell you anything I've learned. There are many who know much more! But, I do have some Phoenix Desert experience. I started Jan. 1st and have some pretty big plants now. The desert is tough!! That's why I'm trying to get some of it down in type (in this blog) before I forget a lot of it.

 

[DGBAMA]

First grow is a learning experience.

Fisherman had one of the best bucket grows I have seen last year. If you have not seen it, I suggest reading through his grow blog.
http://fairtradetobacco.com/threads/2132-Fisherman-s-grow-blog-Port-Lavaca-Texas-Gulf-coast?highlight=fisherman+grow

 

[grgfinney]

Looks like you have it figured out nice looking plants especially for the the deadsert

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

Pails: There are two types of Home Depot “Homer” buckets (Home Depot buckets are cheaper than Lowes buckets for us in Phoenix). One type of Homer Bucket is far more opaque and stronger than the other and you must pay attention to tell the difference. I finally just painted the bottom 7/8 exterior of all the pails leaving the top 1/8 for marking the plant variety, etc..

Potting Soil: Potting soil w/fertilizer incorporated in the blend was not sufficient/proper for tobacco in pails. I have had nothing but yellowing problems with the soil alone from the first transplant. Jobe’s tomato spikes greened up the plants (2 per pail – 12:00 & 6:00) right away. Cost $3.70 per bag of 50 at Lowes. Applied the spikes 1” from the outside edge of the pail when the transplant droop is over and the plant had established itself.

Water: I have 30 plants and drip line for watering is convenient, but it will not flood the soil enough to activate the spikes. Spikes were placed 1” below the surface of the soil (per instructions) and require a few seconds of additional filling/flooding with a garden hose to completely cover and activate. The thing is; however I water, I water thoroughly and allow the pails to drain.

Arizona desert tobacco plants grown in summer (100 – 110 degrees f) require a lot of water, every other day for me. I should have ignored the “Tobacco Hates Wet Feet” advice from other parts of the country, I’m sure it does in other parts of the country. But here, I think the plants stress even in damp soil because the soil is so HOT! I have found that “spraying” the plants thoroughly with a spray nozzle in evening after the sun is off (simulating cooler rain) extends the time between watering to “every 3rd” day. This has worked for me but I would advise caution here, if the leaves droop during a 100 + degree day, those leaves will wilt the following day and you will lose them. Phoenix SUN is not forgiving, it’s Brutal on tobacco.

 

[DGBAMA]

Figured fisherman's rain gutter water system might be of interest, since it picks up from the bottom. Also, painting the buckets white might help by reflecting enough heat to keep the roots cooler?

 

[ArizonaDave]

This heat is hard on tobacco leaves, that's why I'm also shooting for fall. Have some plants in red cups growing currently. Just waiting for the temperature to drop below 100, maybe below 95 before I plant. What do you think Old Putt Cigars?

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

This heat is hard on tobacco leaves, that's why I'm also shooting for fall. Have some plants in red cups growing currently. Just waiting for the temperature to drop below 100, maybe below 95 before I plant. What do you think Old Putt Cigars?

Yep, I would sure would wait until under 100 - the cooler the better. Then, place them in dappled shade (like a big Mesquite) until they are hardy. I,m just finding out that 104 f. and hotter on a daily basis is wilting even my largest plants, and that's with filling the pails to the brim & spraying the plants every day with a garden hose. I have lost some more leaves to wilt & am in the process of relocating the pails to partial shade! For me, regular temps. of 105 f. with no humidity is the MAXIMUM tobacco can stand in direct sun light! If anyone else has grown in hotter temps. I would be interested in hearing about the process. Posting latest pics.:

 

[deluxestogie]

Yikes!

During the flue-curing process, temps above 104ºF are avoided until the leaf has fully yellowed, since such high temperature will begin to cook the leaf. It sounds like you could make an excellent flue-cure chamber with an empty refrigerator box out in the yard. Start with it ventilated, until the leaf is yellow, then just close the box, and let the sun do the rest.

Bob

 

[Mad Oshea]

Add water in pea gravel when You do it. Good job. Mad-

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

Yikes!

During the flue-curing process, temps above 104ºF are avoided until the leaf has fully yellowed, since such high temperature will begin to cook the leaf. It sounds like you could make an excellent flue-cure chamber with an empty refrigerator box out in the yard. Start with it ventilated, until the leaf is yellow, then just close the box, and let the sun do the rest.

Bob

My leaf is not coloring properly. It seems to be making little progress in my humidor (78/68 humidity). The only time I get good color is in full sunlight, outside. It colors "Real Good" there. I'm thinking I could color it there and then move it to the humidor without crumbling it. Are you saying outside in shade is the key for all of my leaf? Will it not dry green?

 

[ArizonaDave]

My leaf is not coloring properly. It seems to be making little progress in my humidor (78/68 humidity). The only time I get good color is in full sunlight, outside. It colors "Real Good" there. I'm thinking I could color it there and then move it to the humidor without crumbling it. Are you saying outside in shade is the key for all of my leaf? Will it not dry green?

I'm getting a lot of pointers from your post as well~! One of these days when it's not too hot, we'll meet up~!

 

[DGBAMA]

Humidor has a good balance of temp and humidity, but the numbers are about 10 points low for good yellowing. It will, but will take a looong time.

 

[deluxestogie]

I declare myself insufficiently educated to offer advice on color curing in the desert. The yellowing phase requires that the leaf remain alive until it is complete. Too hot or too dry (or both) will kill the leaf before it completely yellows.

Bob

 

[Mad Oshea]

I,m starting a tray now AZD. delux is correct. Humidor will work for color curring. Then comes the kiln.

 

[ArizonaDave]

I,m starting a tray now AZD. delux is correct. Humidor will work for color curring. Then comes the kiln.

Good to hear Mad! That's a good abbreviation too, AZD.

 

[ArizonaDave]

I declare myself insufficiently educated to offer advice on color curing in the desert. The yellowing phase requires that the leaf remain alive until it is complete. Too hot or too dry (or both) will kill the leaf before it completely yellows.

Bob

Hmm, a Candella wrapper?

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

Hmm, a Candella wrapper?

I think "Quick Dried Green" leaf is the Candela process. We sure have the temps for it. FYI: I've noticed that "shade dried" in 105 f. + (2 - 3 days) day & night retains some of the green chlorophyll color, but "direct sun dried" in the same temps. (2 - 3 days) day & night, colors are completely brown.