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deluxestogie

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These are my current plans for the 2012 season. All of the garden beds are deeply dug and, mercifully, already prepared, except for adding supplements (composted manure, etc.) and doing a final mix/dig. Since I do all the digging by hand, I start preparing the soil in the fall, one bed at a time, and take my time.

The number of varieties is too large, approaching the scale of a botanical garden, but 2013 will be different, I swear. But I really want to get a broad picture of which varieties are most suited for my needs, which are pipe tobacco and cigars.

The crazy dense planting of Xanthi Yaka (1.2 sq. ft. per plant) is to see how that affects the quality of the product, since this is close to the planting density in Xanthi, Greece. If you find me complaining about how difficult it is to manage with such close spacing, just ignore it.

Most of the large varieties are provided 3.75 sq. ft. per plant, while a number of the smaller varieties get 2.75 sq. ft. per plant.

The Garden Layout

Garden_Layout_600.jpg


The Beds

Garden2012_Tobacco_beds1-2_400.jpg
Garden2012_Tobacco_Beds3-4_400.jpg


Garden2012_Tobacco_half-beds_400.jpg
Garden2012_Tobacco_Bed7-8_400.jpg


The strange triangular beds are located at the ends of existing bramble beds, and were planted in October with garlic. This should be out by early June.

In planning for the huge number of varieties, I find that the greatest difficulty lies in managing the required number of extra seedlings in order to guarantee enough viable transplants and replacements. I haven't yet decided on what method I'll use for germination.

For all the fuss, the total number of plants is only 171, encompassing 39 varieties, 34 of which are new for me, and will be bagged with Agribon-AG15 for seed. There are also a number of crossing experiments with Little Dutch (known N. tabacum), Cornplanter (known N. rustica), and the pair of Mt. Pima and Papante (uncertain species).

Bob
 

Chicken

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i have to say,,,

you and dkh2 are the 2 most ''scientific'' people i have seen as far as garden plans are concerned,,,

i got a appointment with a tiller this weekend,, so hopefully i too,,, will be getting my plans toghter,
 

Daniel

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And I thought my planning was complicated. Good luck
By the way what program do you use for your drawings? I have a 7 day free trial for SmartDraw but that will not last long. It took me two days to figure out how to draw circles they way I wanted them and another day to get them all where I wanted them. NO labels yet and the drip system is still not completely drawn in.
 

deluxestogie

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By the way what program do you use for your drawings?
Daniel,
I do my drawings with Microsoft Visio 2007. It's part of the MS Office Ultimate package, which came with the MSDN subscription I bought, back when I was still actively doing software development. I think you'll find that any vector-based drawing program will allow the quick creation of simple geometric shapes and lines. Most of the dedicated garden layout applications are engineered for plotting politically correct vegetables.

Bob
 

deluxestogie

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I can't afford a greenhouse. So I took a serious look at my enclosed back porch. Though only two of its walls are exposed to the exterior, it faces to the south, along with a western exposure.

The difficulty with using it for growing transplants is that the lower edges of its windows are over 4' from the floor. Since I usually don't enter or exit from the back porch exterior door, I came up with the following solution.

Over the interior of the door frame and window frames, I installed transparent weather sheeting (the kind that sticks on with double-stick tape, and is tightened up with a hair dryer). This significantly increases the insulation value of the single-glazed windows and "storm" door.

Garden20120202_BPorch_WindowShelf_060_400.jpg

If the four screws of the angle braces (1 at the bottom of each brace)
are removed, the shelf will swing down nearly flush to the wall.


For the windows, I purchased from Lowe's (for $25) a 6' x 12" Rubber-Maid wire shelf, with plastic "C" clips for the upper edge and 4 angle braces. It is anchored by simple wood screws into the underlying studs. Installation time ~30 minutes.

For all that available light at the door, I dredged-up a 20+ year old computer desk with casters. I covered the top with thin sheets of bubble wrap, and placed two Seedling Heat Mats ($25 each) above the bubble wrap. An extension cord is accessible on a lower shelf. This will be used for the early week or so after germination. If there should be an emergency need to exit that door, the table rolls away, and the weather sheeting can be split with little effort.

Garden20120202_BPorch_062_HeatTable_400.JPG

The heat mats will raise soil temperature in the trays
10-20ºF above ambient. A $40 controller can allow a specific
temperature setting.


Since the porch floor is tongue-and-groove wood, I was concerned about significant water dripping from the trays. These are standard-sized 1020 trays, with 48 cells each. In the past (outdoors) I used trays with drainage holes--something I feel is essential for tobacco. My solution for the interior situation was to use a solid tray (one without holes) on the bottom, with a drained tray above it holding the cells. After watering, I can lift the drained tray to then pour off any excess water that remains in the under tray.

I still would like a greenhouse, but for my minimal cash outlay, I'm happy with the improvement over using the kitchen table, with its east-facing window.

Other specific costs were from Growers Supply:
Price for 10 of each:
  • Standard 1020 Open Flats without holes: $14.90
  • Standard 1020 Open Flats with holes: $14.90
  • Standard "8 cell" insert - 48 cells total: $8.90

Bob
 

ChuckP

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Howdy Bob,

Nice layouts and diagrams! I usually just use a spreadsheets. Have you grown Yellow Orinoco before? Any thoughts?
Thanx, Chuck.
 

deluxestogie

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Chuck, this will be my first planting of Yellow Orinoco, White Stem Orinoco, and possibly "Sweet Oronoko." All are classed as flue-cured. This summer, I may attempt a trash can flue-curing chamber.

Bob
 

BarG

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I bet that took some pretty fierce planning there Bob. I'm sure I won't be that organized about my garden this year. I have about 5000 sq' disked and broken up divided into three separate gardens to plant all veggies and tobacco. They are all full sun but am considering planting a row or 2 of shade leaf between some corn or sunflower or between a taller variety of tobaco to cut down the hours of full sun.[ after a bit of research on heights and plant spacing]. What does everyone do with excess seedlings when germinating several varietys , since I will have more viable seedlings than I will probably have room for. So far Iv'e been using BB's jar method and seeds are starting to sprout after 5 days from what I can tell without disturbing too much.

Daniel, try the sketchup 8 download, it's simple for drawing a layout of squares,rectangles and circles., and its free. Although the text may leave something to be desired.
 

deluxestogie

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BarG,
Most shade varieties will be the tallest plants. If you're not planning the construction of a shade structure, I would suggest just planning to sun-grow it for this year. If it is shaded, each stalk will likely need support. (CT Shade grows over 8' under shade cloth, and is usually supported by a wire strung from a frame that's 10' above the ground.)

paririefarmer,
My space is limited, and I double-dig each of the beds by hand. The centerline of each bed can be reached while still standing on the grass. I've arranged them so a lawn tractor can mow between them.

The detailed planning serves two purposes. Most importantly, it reduces my stress over uncertainty. Secondly, it functions as a commitment to myself to actually do the planting. I try to do the initial digging for a new bed the previous fall, in order to eliminate that excuse when spring arrives. All very obsessive stuff.

Bob
 

Chicken

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thanks for that tip..

d-stogie......i didnt know they grew tall and nedded support,,,,

im gonna grow some,, i have a shady spot,,,,

and more than likely,, im gonna send most of them to members of this site,{ im not a big cigar smoker,, but im gonna experiment }
 

Jitterbugdude

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I'm gonna weigh in on the "support for shade grown". I've shade grown about a dozen plants a year for about 5 years and never have I had to support them. I grew Conn Shade twice as well as other varieties. Does industry really tie theirs up? That seems awfully labor intensive.

Randy B
 

deluxestogie

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Randy,
In CT, the shade cloth is rated at about 40% shade. At that level of shading, it seems to always require support, at least in Connecticut. As johnlee1933 has reported, the growers in the Windsor area run a wire from the top of the canopy to each transplant. As the plants grow, they progressively wrap the wire on the stalk.

I guess my question, Randy, is how much were your plants shaded. Another issue is the higher latitude of the Connecticut Valley.

Bob
 

Jitterbugdude

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Bob, Originally my plants were shaded with 40% shade cloth. I've planted quite a few varieties, only Conn Shade plants grew in excess of 8 feet, the others (Havana, Yellow Orinoco et al) typically grew to about 6 feet. After a few years I tried 60% shade cloth. That proved to be too much because my leaves were extremely thin and lacking any kind of elasticity. I would LOVE to tour a Conn Shade farm one day to see their operation. Maybe the fact that they are a big commercial operation they use what I call "NPK" style farming. By that, I mean, typically all they look for in the way of fertilizer is NPK but don't spend the time/money to build up humus levels, test for ERGS, BRIX etc. Maybe my soil is more fertile, making for a stronger, deeper root system?

Randy B
 

Tom_in_TN

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Bob, you have a great plan for your 2012 grow-out. Looks like a lot of work. Your system appears to be designed to keep the work load down but did you factor in any sleep time for yourself? And, when you cut the grass around the beds, are you using a grass bagger on your lawn tractor?
 

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Bob, much as I hate to admit i'm having to resort to the good old pitchfork to plant my rows. I got my first run on one garden with my old tiller when it kicked the bucket. The pitchfork does a good job of digging deep and breaking up unwanted previous winter growth. Its slow goin though. Looking for new engine discontinued or new tiller. Won't be as deep or as good as a 10-12" deep pitchforked row.
 
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deluxestogie

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Tom,
Welcome to FTT. That is an excellent question about the mower bagger. I don't have a bagger. When the tobacco plants are less than about 8" tall, I have them covered with a floating sheet of Agribon-AG15 row cover. I can just shake off the clippings. Once the Agribon comes off, I don't mow between the beds until the tops of the plants are at least 15-18" tall--sturdy enough to just spray them with the sprinkler head on the garden hose to rinse away the clippings that adhere. (A minor pain in the butt.) After the first priming, the clippings just sail under the plants and add to the mulching effect. I'm not as careful with my lettuce, since I just rinse it in the sink before eating it.

BarG,
After you use the new rototiller, follow it with the turning fork. It's light work, and will significantly improve the soil beyond the shallow tilling.

Bob
 

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BarG,
After you use the new rototiller, follow it with the turning fork. It's light work, and will significantly improve the soil beyond the shallow tilling.

Bob

Thats good advice Bob, the tines are 2 bud cans or 10" and gives a deep digging. I got my onions [usualy planted november] and first row of roma beans. I'll have to dig up some pics of previous gardens.
 

deluxestogie

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I'm still delighted with my wire shelves inside the enclosed back porch. For the first few days after transplant into the tray cells, I keep them under a clear dome covered in Agribon-AG15. After that for about the first week, I remove the dome, but keep the Agribon in place.

Garden20120402_117_seedlingTraysOnShelf_300.jpg
Garden20120327_111_seedlingTraysUnderAG15_300.jpg


Once I've transfered germinated seedlings into the 48-cell trays, one per cell, I maintain the original germination batches (with lids off), and use them to replace any failed seedlings in the cell trays.

Garden20120327_112_spareSeedlingsInJar_300.jpg


For new growers, this is the appearance of the cotyledons (seed leaves) and the first true leaves.

Garden20120402_118_cotyledons_300.jpg
Garden20120402_121_firstTrueLeaves_300.jpg


This season, I began with two germination mixes: Miracle Gro Peat mixed with Perlite and Vermiculite, and Burpee's Organic coir-based Germination Mix. Coir is coconut husk that is finely shredded. There are two things that I particularly like about the coir mix. First, it dramatically changes color between the dark, wet state and the light, red brown dry state, making it simple to determine if it needs more water. Secondly, the coir mix is the best by far at dispersing the available water.

Garden20120402_115_coirDryVsWet_300.jpg


On the distinctly down side, here is a comparison of seedling growth in the coir mix (on the left) and the peat mix (on the right). Each set of four cells on the left side is matched with the very same variety, transplanted at the same time, on the right side. From bottom to top of this image are eight cells each of six different varieties, all showing the same differential in growth. I suspect this may be entirely due to the added fertilizer that comes with the Miracle Gro peat mix.

Garden20120402_113_GrowthCoirVsMiracleGro_300.jpg


At one point, I ran out of germination mix ingredients, and was unable to find more of what I had been using, so I purchased a bag of Jiffy Organic Germination Mix. This turned out to be awful stuff. The basic problem is that peat is naturally water-repellent. Most peat-based mixes are blended with a water-dispersing agent (a surfactant) mixed in. So when you add water, it is immediately absorbed. Well, not so with the Jiffy stuff. When the cells were packed with it and then watered, the water sat on top for 20 minutes, without penetrating the surface. This characteristic also causes water added to the bottom to disperse only very slowly into the upper portion of the mix. Top watering causes the dry surface to float on top, leaving a mess. Once finally hydrated, the Jiffy mix has the texture of gumbo, and sticks to everything. On drying, it forms a crust. I now mix the Jiffy with Perlite and Vermiculite, which seems satisfactory.

Garden20120402_116_jiffyOrganicVsPeatMix_300.jpg

Messy Jiffy gumbo mix is on the left.

So far, of 40+ varieties, (not counting the ancient Sweet Oronoko and Big White Burley KY16) I have had complete failure of Long Red and Celikhan, and very poor germination of Bafra. All three of these were from Nicotiana Project. I believe the difficulty may be the result of the seed packets having been sent in a standard letter envelope, which was crushed by the automated USPS postmarking machine. Inside each tiny Ziplock were smudges of oil that had once been tobacco seeds. The several other varieties from the same source have germinated well.

Bob
 
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