how to prepare new plot for next year

[Smokin Harley]

As I well know I should prepare the plot this fall so it can compost in ,mellow and be ready for next year once the ground thaws, and I guess I could look it up but I'd rather ask the experienced grower...What sort of soil amendments did you include into your tobacco plots(keep in mind I'm in northern Illinois 45 miles south of Chicago) what should I put in and what should I not put in. what to keep on hand as the season goes along. when the instructions say dont over water , it depends on soil type. I live in will county IL and we generally have a slightly clayey loam and our yard elevation where the plot is slightly lower than the rest of the yard .When the soil gets dry - it cracks , rain- slick mud swamp. Like ,we had 3 good rain storms this year that resulted in an 8 inch flood that set my vegs back . Worst year in the last 3 since we moved in only because of the amount of rain and when we got it. I have sand that I add to break up the soil compaction that naturally occurs and adds drainage so plants dont sit in a swamp. I plan to add some peat for same reason. I use Milorganite since it is organic and will not burn . I mix it right in my veg beds and its a slow feed throughout the season. What do you fertilize with? How often , when do you stop fertilizing or water before priming?
I have one weed plant in the garden that just haunts me to no end , Purslane . That red stemmed succulent just gets into everything. And try to pull it , the leaves just fall off and start another plant, its terrible.
I have a rear tine rototiller . How deep should I till for tobacco , I have no idea how deep the roots tend to go . Since they come from hot humid areas I'm going to guess they have shallow roots.
Thank you

 

[Rickey60]

#1 do a soil test. That will tell you were to start.

 

[Jitterbugdude]

#1 do a soil test. That will tell you were to start.

Ditto!

 

[squeezyjohn]

I agree that it's always important to know your soil if you're growing anything ... I tend to go for the less molecular approach myself and prepare the beds by removing weeds and mulching with plenty of good organic matter (animal poo mainly!) - if you've got plenty of earthworms like I do - then if you put it on the surface now - it will be fairly well incorporated in your topsoil by the time that it comes to planting which saves all the digging and tilling work. But by all means get a soil test to know in more detail if you wish.

I can't comment of fertilising as I don't use much in the way of inorganic fertilisers (but had great success with calcium nitrate last year) ... also I think you have to be more vigilant about how much nitrogen you get in the ground if you want the tobacco to burn nicely (someone can come in and give the specifics) - as I turn all my baccy in to smokeless - I'm not that bothered about burn quality and add tons of nitrogen to get the nicotine up a bit.

 

[LeftyRighty]

I have soil somewhat similar to yours, maybe a bit clayey'r. Get a soils report. Contact your state/county ag extension office (online) - generally cheaper the commercial services. That will tell you what your soil is lacking, and if pH adjustment is needed. Do this this fall. Tell them you're growing tobacco, or tomatos - same nutrient requirements.
I won't recommend adding sand to clayey soils, generally just results in concrete-like material when it dries. Best amendment for clayey/silty soils is organic material.

I usually just apply 10-10-10- fertilizer in the spring, either tilled in just before planting, or top-dressed after planting. Then no more the remaining season. Too much nitrogen results in way too green leaf, and makes for very difficult curing. Better to starve your tobacco of nitrogen than to give it too much. Slightly stunted or shorter plants, and/or smaller leaf that are easy cure, is so much better than leaf that never cures, or dries green, or is harsh, ammonia, off flavor.

Really, really try to divert rain runoff around your tobacco patch. Soggy soil should be avoided - plants will blow over way too easy. It's not fun having to stand your plants back up, or stake them, or tie them up, after every storm blows through.

After a number of seasons, including a few severe-drought summers, I have concluded that it is best not to water my tobacco, period. The midwest region gets enough moisture in the spring to get the plants going, and the miserably hot, dry, humid days of July and August are perfect for maturing the leaf. Yes, the plants wilt and droop in the afternoon, but they always bounce back and look great in the early morning again. And when the leaf is mature and ripe, they cure so nicely.

 

[DGBAMA]

+1 on the organics. Till in as much compost, leaves, grass cuttings, etc as you can get before first frost.

 

[Boboro]

Will tillin in grass an leaves mess up my soil test? Should I get a sampel before I till it in?

 

[LIBERTYCHICKEN]

I have got a solution to the purslane -- Eat it , it's delicious
http://www.commonsensehome.com/purslane/#more-2306

 

[LeftyRighty]

Will tillin in grass an leaves mess up my soil test? Should I get a sampel before I till it in?

take the sample before tilling, at about 6-8 inch depth.
then till the sod & leaves in - may give you a nitrogen boost in the spring, but not enough to influence soil recomendations.

 

[deluxestogie]

My usual practice is to add 100 lbs. of composted cow manure (N:K = 0.5:0.5:0.5) per 60 ft[sup]2[/sup] bed in the early spring, and till by hand down to about 18+ inches. I add no other fertilizers during the growing season.

Tobacco has shallow roots. It can tolerate huge amounts of rain, but very little standing water. So drainage is key. If you have a boggy area, you might consider raising the bed.

Bob

 

[Smokin Harley]

I have got a solution to the purslane -- Eat it , it's delicious
http://www.commonsensehome.com/purslane/#more-2306

I cant eat that much !! lol