Northern Light Up
Active Member
My first kiln attempt.
Can mold grow at 125 degrees fahrenheit?
Wondering how much I need to worry about it.
Can mold grow at 125 degrees fahrenheit?
Wondering how much I need to worry about it.
I'm running my fist kiln in a 120 quart Igloo cooler using a small crock pot, computer fan, and RANCO ETC-111000 thermostat with a probe. I have a Meade wireless thermo-hygro in the pile to monitor the humidity and verify the temps. I've kept the temps at between 116 and 127 @ 70%RH for two weeks. Because of sweat in the container I placed the tobacco (approx. 300 leaves) in a cardboard box elevated 1/2" off the bottom of the cooler. I have egg crates in the bottom of the box to be sure the tobacco doesn't come in contact with moisture. SO FAR...(2 weeks) NO MOLD. I break it down every few days to check.
I'm a fan of AmaxB's idea about container kilning and will be setting up to do the remaining 3000 leaves that way.
The thing I worry about, after reading a lot; won't the chemical reaction stop if I take the tobacco out to check for mold? It seems to me the chemical process takes a couple days to activate and will need to restart if cooled down.
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Activity[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Temperature and Duration[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Notes[/FONT] |
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Hot dry air sterilization[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]170 °C (340 °F), 1 hour 160 °C (320 °F), 2 hours 150 °C (300 °F), 2.5 hours 140 °C (285 °F), 3 hours[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Kills virtually all spores[/FONT] |
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Wood heat treatment for rot resistance[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]200 °C (392 °F), 24 hours[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Changes structure and color of the wood[/FONT] |
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Whole house treatment for termites and/or fungi[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]71°C (160 °F), 4-6 hours[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT] |
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Penicillium spore death in water[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]54.4 °C (130 °F), 30 minutes[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT] |
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ascospores activation in grape juice[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]70 °C (158 °F), 30 minutes[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This is higher than the temperature which kills Penicillium in water[/FONT] |
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Germination of chlamydospores in Cladosporium-related species stimulated by moist heat[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]75 °C (167 °F), 30 minutes[/FONT] | [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This is higher than the temperature which kills Penicillium in water[/FONT] |
I did pull all of the tobacco out. It was wet on the bottom. Thanks for the warning.
I'm going to increase air flow.
The ziplock bags are in ideal shape. I'm going to go with all sealed containers. Put spacers on the bottom of the cooler and add a few more computer fans and ducts to assure temperature is equal all around the kiln. Have fans at the top that push air through ducts to underneath the baccy pile.
Link? Name of thread? Keywords?AmaxB has the solution with the sealed container kilning.
Link? Name of thread? Keywords?
That is the result of inadequate insulation. Try throwing a fleece blanket or two over the entire container, and placing it on a wood or Styrofoam board....there is still excess moisture that condenses on the inside of the cooler.