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Beginner cigar mold

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Smokin Harley

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Thanks. The illustration is the easy part! lol

I drew this one up yesterday too. It may even be easier to build except for the curved parts around the head. I'm going to give this a try then figure out what I will have to do for the head curves. The side pieces with the dotted outlines are sacrificial to provide support when I am routing/dadoing.

View attachment 16681
I like that one even more...when you get to making one with that design...I'd take one in a 5 or 6 x 60...or a 7/8" bit if you can find one.
 

TravisNTexas

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I like that one even more...when you get to making one with that design...I'd take one in a 5 or 6 x 60...or a 7/8" bit if you can find one.

I have 7/8" and 5/8" bits on their way from Hong Kong, but will take a couple of weeks to get here. The cool thing is I finally sprung for a Grr-Ripper, which I have wanted for a couple of years for the table saw, but which will also make the router table a lot safer with small pieces, and it will be here tomorrow :) I hope to get to play in the shop again tomorrow to work on some more prototyping.
 

waikikigun

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Yay 5/8" bit! ;)

Looks like a great pro design. Sweet job.

I have 7/8" and 5/8" bits on their way from Hong Kong, but will take a couple of weeks to get here. The cool thing is I finally sprung for a Grr-Ripper, which I have wanted for a couple of years for the table saw, but which will also make the router table a lot safer with small pieces, and it will be here tomorrow :) I hope to get to play in the shop again tomorrow to work on some more prototyping.
 

deluxestogie

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Unless a cigar mold is for a peculiar shape, like a torpedo, the length is most useful if about 7". It allows shorter cigars, but also permits you to roll the same ring gauge in a longer stick.

Bob
 

TravisNTexas

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image.jpgThe Grr-Ripper arrived and is now assembled and ready to go! If any of you sawdust generators have not seen or heard of it you should look it up. You can safely rip down to 1/8" against the fence of a table saw with complete control of the wood on both sides of the blade. For anything where you are moving the stock and not the tool it makes life easier and safer! I've been looking at getting one for years. I finally bit the bullet so I could use it on small parts (like single and double cigar molds!) on the router table.
 

dchiang

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I should visit the forum more often. I have been working on a mold and was thinking of using a 3/4" drill. It never occurred to me to use a router. This is definitely a better way to go. Thanks for sharing.
 

TravisNTexas

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No problem. Glad if it helped. I figure we are all here to share and learn from each other anyway. I have definitely learned more than I have contributed! lol :)
 

Knucklehead

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View attachment 16695The Grr-Ripper arrived and is now assembled and ready to go! If any of you sawdust generators have not seen or heard of it you should look it up. You can safely rip down to 1/8" against the fence of a table saw with complete control of the wood on both sides of the blade. For anything where you are moving the stock and not the tool it makes life easier and safer! I've been looking at getting one for years. I finally bit the bullet so I could use it on small parts (like single and double cigar molds!) on the router table.

Keep us up to date on how you like that critter. It looks like it would do a better job than a home made push stick. I took the blade guard off my table saw, it was just in the way and a PIA to use. I've used some home made feather boards to prevent kick back. I like the looks of that tool.
 

TravisNTexas

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Keep us up to date on how you like that critter. It looks like it would do a better job than a home made push stick. I took the blade guard off my table saw, it was just in the way and a PIA to use. I've used some home made feather boards to prevent kick back. I like the looks of that tool.

It's pretty awesome! I played with it ripping narrow pieces from scrap over the weekend. Since it straddles the blade it hold both the main board and the cutoff all the way through the cut. No more thin wooden rockets pinching between the blade and the fence and launching across the shop! It has a nice rubbery wood gripping material on it. I still use featherboards but will need them less than before. The way it's designed you put pressure against the table and the fence simultaneously. I'll give it a try on the router table as soon as I get a chance.
 

Knucklehead

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It's pretty awesome! I played with it ripping narrow pieces from scrap over the weekend. Since it straddles the blade it hold both the main board and the cutoff all the way through the cut. No more thin wooden rockets pinching between the blade and the fence and launching across the shop! It has a nice rubbery wood gripping material on it. I still use featherboards but will need them less than before. The way it's designed you put pressure against the table and the fence simultaneously. I'll give it a try on the router table as soon as I get a chance.

That sounds good so far. I have one in my Amazon wish list but will wait for more feedback before pulling the trigger. I also saved that little attachment that allows you to rip down to 1/8". It sounded like you bought that too.

I'm going to want to see a picture of all ten of your fingers in a couple weeks. :p
 

TravisNTexas

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Wedding is over this weekend. Both the 5/8ths and 7/8ths router bits have arrived and look good. Maybe now I can get back in the shop and do some more mold work! Not to mention rolling more cigars!
 

TravisNTexas

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image.jpgWell, the Grrr-Ripper was great on the router table. My asymmetric cigar mold prototype attempt was a failure though. Here are a couple of pictures.

I'm blowing this off. I will repost from a computer. Nothing works on this forum from my iPhone or I just don't know how to make it work. Huff
 

TravisNTexas

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Okay, so I finally got pictures on a computer after getting side tracked by a bunch of different things. The first picture shows the male side of the mold after I removed some of the rabbet. The second shows a test fit, which obviously does not fit.

Cigar mold P2 - male side.jpgCigar Mold P2 - Test Fit.jpg
I think I need to go to 1.5" stock or just back up this stock with another piece of 3/4" plywood or something, make the female part of the mold deeper, and make the rabbets much deeper. I will obviously have to loose the little bit that is showing in the picture since it will never fit, but it's very close so another 1/16th or 1/32nd and it should work.
 

TravisNTexas

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So I decided to deepen the rabbits. Here is the setup. What's wrong with this picture?
Cigar Mold P2 - Wrong Way to Route .jpg
I am feeding from the wrong side! So it kicked it out. And of course I was hand feeding and not using any push devices :eek: I was lucky though and did not loose a finger, though I have 4 deep chops in the tip of my left ring finger and nail. I blew it off after I washed, bandaged, and cleaned up the blood, and settled down to a Headley Grange and a beer (and some ibuprophen!).

I think the way I drew it up will work, but I am going to have to quit being lazy and stupid and do it right. Or since I can rip nice thin strips now I may try Knuck's suggestion too.
 

webmost

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So I decided to deepen the rabbits. Here is the setup. What's wrong with this picture?

What's wrong? uhhh... Is it that the word is spelled rabbet?

I see it's backwards, but I don't see how you managed to jam your finger in there... Especially using that super safe Grrr-Ripper.

Major owies.
 

Smokin Harley

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Okay, so I finally got pictures on a computer after getting side tracked by a bunch of different things. The first picture shows the male side of the mold after I removed some of the rabbet. The second shows a test fit, which obviously does not fit.

View attachment 16830View attachment 16829
I think I need to go to 1.5" stock or just back up this stock with another piece of 3/4" plywood or something, make the female part of the mold deeper, and make the rabbets much deeper. I will obviously have to loose the little bit that is showing in the picture since it will never fit, but it's very close so another 1/16th or 1/32nd and it should work.

Suggestion. By this pic (the right one) I would router mill both halves just as deep as the top piece so that both cigar trenches are 3/8" taller than they are wide giving them a slightly straight wall, then with your rabbet bit mill the outside of your male side with a 3/8" trench reveal, slightly creeping in on the curved milled as relief or slip. When you put them together the male side should slip into the female with just the right amount of depth and make a round stick. If the male side (lets call it a tenon at this point)is too tight you may need to put a slight amount more relief on the revealed sides (thin block sand at a slight angle) so that once the wood swells , it won't just friction lock on itself.
I miss having my table saw or I would be doing exactly what you're doing. Looks great so far. I think you're close to a finished and usable product .
 
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