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Question about fertilizer/ Mixing my own fertilizer

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AssyMcGee

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I bought blood meal (12-0-0), bone meal (0-10-0), Muriate of Potash (0-0-60). What parts do I need when I mix this to create a ratio that is 6-6-18? So far I have not been able to figure it out. I only have 2 square feet of area that I need to be fertilized so by my math that's 1.101 ounces of fertilizer. If someone out there can figure this out I would be eternally grateful.
 

ChinaVoodoo

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I find it best to start with numbers by the acre. Reason being, that's what all the research numbers you'll find are based on, (unless if it's kg/ha). And sorry, I'm going to mix metric and imperial.

There's wide variation between recommendations, but 140-140-240 seems to be safe numbers. Those numbers mean pounds per acre. Fortunately, 1 pound per acre almost equals 1 gram per 100 square feet. It's close enough.

Usually I stop there because I'm planting outside. 2 square feet however, is 1/50 th of 100. So let's divide those numbers by 50, which equals 2.8-2.8-4.8 (grams per 2 square feet)

The blood meal is 12% nitrogen. Here's the calculation.
2.8 / 0.12 = 23.3g. (that's about 3/4 of an ounce)

Bone meal - 2.8 / 0.1 = 28g (about 1 ounce)

Potash - 2.8 / 0.6 = 4.7g (about 1/6 of an ounce)

A couple more things, I would probably increase the blood meal by 50% due to the fact it's organic and therefore slow release. Also,it's very likely you already have sufficient phosphorus and potassium in the soil and don't need to add any. You should do a test if you haven't already.
 

Brown Thumb

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Screw the numbers and test. a little of this and that and a bunch of this will get you in line.
In all honesty get a soil test.
 

Smokin Harley

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soil fertility test
better off finding fertilizers that are lower in numbers and build your fert blend off of that . I have been told in here to stay clear of muriate of potash,i forget why right now (need more coffee)..your numbers will be 12-10-60 using what you listed... given that each number represented is lbs/acre .
Good luck finding 6-6-18 anywhere in "our area" unless you happen to find a farmers co-op that is getting a shipment or will blend a small batch for you (usually a pallet is minimum order) I've located some but they won't ship due to haz-mat regulations. So, I found the best off-the-shelf substitute I could. Look in your local Menards garden department. The brand is Alaska and they sell a 3 lb bag of pelletized slow release organic "vegetable and tomato" fertilizer formulated in 4-6-6. Works great. I'm growing my 12 varieties of leaf in a 20 x 30 garden foot print and I bought two bags . I have yet to open the second bag .
 

BigBonner

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Fertilizing would be according to your soil . If you have good composted soil , you may not need fertilizer .
20-10-20 For Burley and works well with all other varieties I grow . Turkish tobacco needs little fertilizer and should grow great .

Some fertile soils may only need a nitrogen source .Potash is the next main source if fertility is low .
Composted soil may need nothing added .
 

Knucklehead

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Soil test for sure. With my soil test results so far I've been able to throw a bit of 10-10-10 each year to maintain a good level. I never need lime. There are limestone boulders under the property and in the winter the water table rises above the ground surface. pH hasn't changed one single point the whole time I've been growing.

I'm also wondering if that winter water table rise isn't always bringing some of my nutrients back up that got washed down in the summer. Wet weather blow holes onen up and gush water all over place when the table rises high enough.
 
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