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deluxestogie Grow Log 2017

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deluxestogie

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Deluxe, are these Criollo (Cuba) the same as Cuban Criollio 98 or are there different varieties of Criollo ???

Dan
Here's my understanding of Cuban Criollo. From the 1930s into the 1950s, most Cuban cigar tobacco grown was the variety Corojo (named after the Corojo plantation, where it was developed--probably from a lineage that is similar to Vuelta Abajo). Due to factors related to disease burden (I don't know which), production was switch to a newer variety, called Criollo, starting in the late 1950s or early 1960s. I am not clear as to the genetic relationship between Corojo and Criollo.

Again, due to successive disease issues, tobacco breeders developed the numbered (actually, the "dated") criollo and corojo. So, plain vanilla criollo was supplanted by criollo 98, etc. I believe the Criollo (Cuba) that I have been growing is the original variety, based on its GRIN accession date.
Kind of look like the criollo 1376 I'm growing.
No fair! You looked!

Yes, my Criollo (Cuba) is GRIN Ti 1376. I usually leave off the Ti 1376, because I can't remember it, and I'm usually too lazy to look it up (even though it appears in the first post of this grow log).

Deluxestogie's Official Organic Free-range Sustainable Green Stalk-harvesting Nails

Garden20170801_2938_roofingNails_500.jpg

Any nails, including finishing nails, will do. But I like the wide head.

The tags are, as usual, cut from a Tyvek mailing envelope. Although it will be attached to a stalk, it still says, "stalk", so that the tag can meaningfully follow the leaf all the way to a storage bag after kilning. Incidentally, my stalk-cured leaf is ultimately stripped, tied into a hand, and kilned as a tied hand.

My practice is to attach the Tyvek tag to each nail before taking the nails out to the field. (I hate it when the lawn tractor shoots a nail out at 500 fps toward a random target.) Hint: I use a large, sharp needle to puncture each tag, before attempting to pass a nail through it.

The nail is driven into the base of the stalk, with its point angled toward the stalk base, so that it provides a hanging hook for the inverted stalk. With the newly cut stalk lying directly on the grass, I use an ordinary claw hammer to pound in the nail. Since the tobacco stalk pith is soft, and provides little support for the nail, I make sure that the nail point makes it to or through the opposite side of the stalk.

As an added bonus, the wide head of the roofing nail helps to assure that a gentle bumping in the shed won't send a stalk full of leaf crashing to the floor.

Bob

EDIT: When a cured stalk is stripped, I remove the nail with the claw hammer, and toss the nail into a container. I have been able to re-use nails for several years.
 

SmokesAhoy

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I have a row of Cuba, criollo, va and this year changed to the new corojo. It's pretty impressive walking down the line. Vuelta and criollo look similar when alone in pictures but standing next to each other have a little difference. Then you come to the new Cuban corojo 99 that was shared with us and it's a new breed for sure. 6 feet tall plants with massive leaves. Same spot in the yard in the same conditions. I've never tried it but I'm a huge fan of the growth habit. Another huge plus is how erect it is. Aphids don't stand a chance, there is literally nowhere to hide. I've only got one with aphids though, they were all treated with macho, but one must not have gotten a full dose.

Anyway yeah the grin Cubans I've grown are all similar in growth but the new one is probably the best strain of tobacco I've ever grown in terms of growth habit, size and apparent yield. No wonder it's taken the cigar world by storm and I'm sure the flavor is good too by seeing so many people praise the flavor on the internet.
 

Thedbs999

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Bob,

Thanks for the information on the Criollos.

I see where some of your varieties you are leaf priming,e.g., Corojo 99 and you are stalk harvesting the Corillo (Cuban). Is there a reason of harvesting some by priming and others Stalk harvesting???

Dan
 

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It's an overcast morning, but just a smidgen too dry to strip any of last season's tobacco today. I'll probably do a first priming of my Corojo 99 later today.

Garden20170726_2903_Corojo99_Bob_582square.jpg


With 16 Corojo 99 plants, at 22 leaves per plant, I'm expecting at least 6 pounds of finished leaf.

That stogie in my mouth is wrapped in last year's Hacienda del Cura. It's similar in taste to the original Cuban Corojo, though slightly smoother. It's productivity was close to that of my Honduran Corojo this year--that is, okay, but not great. Neither is close to that of my Corojo 99. [Thanks again to the mystery tourist who acquired the Corojo 99 seed.]

Bob

Corojo 99 is a very good producer and I may make a bigger grow of it next year .
Did you top your Corojo 99 or just let it grow like CT shade with out topping ? My Corojo 99 is just about ready to top .A little rain would make it grow a little bigger and make the leafs spread .
Also do you top your Besuki ? I noticed that my Besuki looks a lot like my Ct Shade does and I assume that you harvest it with out topping just like CT Shade .
 

deluxestogie

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Is there a reason of harvesting some by priming and others Stalk harvesting?
There is a large body of tradition associated with harvesting practices. Usually, the traditional method for particular variety works just fine.

If, by my standards of leaf maturation, I would find myself priming the same variety from bottom to top, over a short span of days, then I leap to the conclusion that it can be stalk-harvested, and with much less work than priming and stringing all the same leaf. As I've explained in various posts, if the bottom leaf (excluding the two or so really trashy ones) has not deteriorated by the time the very top leaf on the same plant is nearly ready to be primed, then that variety is a candidate for stalk-harvesting.

My Corojo 99 as well as my Piloto Cubano seem to mature their way up the stalk at a leisurely pace. If I wait for more of the upper leaf to mature, the lower leaf might be lost. So I prime those. Another consideration is the height of the plant. Those that are way too tall to fit in my shed (with their top leaf hanging straight down), then I prime those, regardless of the synchrony of maturation.

Truth be told, I would stalk-harvest everything, if I could. It's far less work than priming, and requires half the square footage in my single-tier curing shed. But for some varieties--those that slowly plod along their maturation path, stalk-harvesting would decrease the overall quality of the finished leaf.

The above is mostly applicable to cigar varieties. I always prime the lowest lugs of my burley varieties (none growing this year), then stalk-harvest the rest. The same is true of cigar varieties that mostly mature synchronously, but usually lose some tasty bottom leaf if I wait to stalk-harvest the whole plant: Little Dutch, Dutch (Ohio), PA Red, Long Red, Swarr-Hibshman. Flue-cured varieties are always primed for flue-curing.

Did you top your Corojo 99...? Also do you top your Besuki?
I have topped my Corojo 99, as well as all three varieties of Besuki. I've found that topping (and meticulous removal of suckers--even the tiny ones) nearly eliminates the late aphids that I am beginning to see, as the effect of imidacloprid from the transplant water begins to fade. I usually do not top my Orientals. For this year, that is only the quasi-Oriental, Prancak N-1.

Bob
 

BigBonner

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I just finished topping my Corojo 99 and sprayed it with organic sucker control (That is approved for organic production ) .
I have more Corojo 99 in another field for some one I made a promise to that will not have any spray on it .

Corojo 99 would be great for a commercial grow .
 

OldDinosaurWesH

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Tobacco Seedlings 8-03-17-51.jpgTobacco Seedlings 8-03-17-50.jpg

Bob:

Attached are two photos of my sickly plants. There are just a few of these in one particular corner of the garden. Said particular corner is, now that I have learned about "Frenching", obviously too close to the neighbor's shade tree. The poor things are getting a double whammy from the roots of the neighbor's Honey Locust tree, and the (same) neighbor's white painted garage. The combination of reflected heat, and water/nutrient sucking roots, are making it tough for these little guys. Yesterday afternoon they looked near death, but I gave them a shot of calcium nitrate and watered the heck out of them. Photos taken this A.M. and they had recovered somewhat overnight. Thanks for the info re: "Frenching".

Wes H.

Oh well...live and learn. You're never too old a Dinosaur to learn a few new tricks!
 

deluxestogie

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Where's the goat!

WheresTheGoat.jpg

Jurassic Park, 1993.

I've been carrying my damaged veggies over to the neighbor's goats. They love it: cukes, tomatoes, peppers, dropped pears. Yesterday evening, as I carried a load of veggie goodness to the neighbor's goat pen, I noticed an absence of activity. I called out to them. Nothing. They have just vanished.

Today, while looking over my shoulder frequently, I stalk-harvested most of my Vuelta Abajo. One slowbee and the seed plant were left in the bed. The rest (14 plants) are now hanging in the shed.

I can't imagine that a T-Rex would have any interest in tobacco. Or a shed.

Bob
 

burge

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It never hurts to buy leaf if your in a position. I know I have talked to some people on here and they say that there leaf is not that great. My thought is why waste all your time unless you can grow a great product.
 

deluxestogie

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My home-grown leaf is sometimes crappy, usually excellent, and with certain varieties, better than anything on the market. It takes a year or three to get the growing and curing figured out. A suitable shed for curing makes a huge difference in the final leaf quality. And, of course, a kiln is essential to produce excellent, finished leaf. Why waste all your money, when you can grow a great product?

Bob
 

deluxestogie

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So far, all of the Prancak N-1 that I've primed has gone into the flue-cure chamber, and seems to be doing well there. (The current batch comes out tomorrow.)

Garden20170803_2945_PrancakN1_bed_600.jpg


Four plants of a single variety isn't much, but it's certainly enough to produce seed, and to give a reasonable idea of the qualities of the variety. I'm not sure that this small grow of Corojo (Honduras) can be taken as typical for the variety.

Garden20170803_2944_CorojoHonduras_bed_400.jpg


The plant is clearly related to Vuelta Abajo and Criollo (Cuba), though its maturation is somewhat different, requiring leaf priming. It's productivity is comparable (okay, but not great).

When to prime? When to prime? I was probably better at giving advice on this subject a few years ago, when the anguish of determining when to prime was fresh in my mind. In reality, at this point, I just prime leaf "when it seems like the right time." And like the layers of a neural net, I have difficulty teasing out the specific factors and their weighting. I prime when it seems like the right time.

Garden20170803_2939_Corojo99_lowerLeaves_600.jpg


In the above photo, the lower few leaves feel ready to prime--maybe tomorrow. Below, is a closeup of the tip of the third leaf that will be primed.

Garden20170803_2941_Corojo99_leafTip_600.jpg


The texture seems right; there is some yellowing of the lamina. But importantly, the tip has begun to ripen.

Below, the Piloto Cubano PR seems sort of ready to prime, but not as ready as the Corojo 99.

Garden20170803_2942_PilotoCubanoPR_bed_600.jpg


The texture is just about there, but the coloration seems a little early.

Garden20170803_2943_PilotoCubano_leafTip_600.jpg


When we look closely, there are early signs of senescence. Maybe a few more days to go. You'll have to ignore the overall yellowish color in the photo, since the sun is about to set.

Bob
 

BarG

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Maybe a hole in their fence? Or they sold them all. I got chickens now and they ate at least 300 tomatos this season. I am getting 2 dz brown eggs a week from 10- 6 month old hens. American reds and black barred. It has been increasing 2-3 per week for the last month. They are penned and have a hen house but I let them out in the evening after work. when the tree frogs croak in the evening they head back to the pen, I just count and shut the door.
Now I am looking at a couple cattle, to raise and breed just for the freezer. I will have to fence some acres though. The look and the young ladys face says it all about the goats being gone.
 

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Thanks for the pictures, Bob! These are really helpful for me as I try to decide when to prime!
 

deluxestogie

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Besuki vs Besuki vs Besuki

This is the last point of comparison between the three Besuki varieties, until the finished leaf is smoked in a few months. Two things are clear:
  1. Besuki from Ambulu and Kesilir appear to be identical.
  2. Besuki from tabakanbau is a distinctly different variety.

Garden20170805_2947_BesukiAmbulu_leafSize_400.jpg


Garden20170805_2948_BesukiKesilir_leafSize_400.jpg


Garden20170805_2946_BesukiTabakanbau_leafSize_400.jpg


Garden20170805_2949_Besuki_comparison_leafSize_400.jpg


Prancak N-1, also from Indonesia, is a variety that can be flue-cured to a good result.

Garden20170805_2950_PrancakN1_leafSize_400.jpg


This batch came out of the flue-cure chamber yesterday.

Garden20170805_2951_PrancakN1_flue-cured_600.jpg


Bob
 

Hasse SWE

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Yes it will be very interesting to see if you notice any other differences between the different Besuki variant then..
 

deluxestogie

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Garden20170808_2953_entireGarden_side_600.jpg


Things are starting to look empty. I've already put whole stalks of 6 varieties in the shed, and primed the last of the VA Bright Leaf for flue-curing (in the chamber now). The priming is moving a little slower. Besuki (tabakanbau) has been stalk-cut (after a low priming), and the other two Besuki varieties will be likewise stalk-cut over the next two days.

Garden20170808_2952_CorojoHonduras_leafSize_400.jpg


15 Havana 322 stalks are in the shed (with the seed plant still in the bed), while the 6 plants of Havana 322 that were transplanted late are nearly ready for stalk harvesting.

Garden20170808_2954_Havana322_late_bed_400.jpg


Seed pods are mostly mature, with a few fully brown on the VA Bright bare stalk.

Garden20170808_2956_VABright_bed_empty_600.jpg


The remaining Corojo 99 is maturing very rapidly at this point, but I'll just continue priming 3 leaves at a time, though I may be doing that every 1 or 2 days. The tops of the Prancak N-1 will be stalk-harvested and sun-cured when they are ready.

Garden20170808_2955_Corojo99_bed_partialPrimed_600.jpg


With the lower stalks naked, you can see the tilting from a wind storm in early July.

Bob
 

OldDinosaurWesH

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Bob:

How many plants do you grow in a season? You seem to have your own little experimental station.

Also: do you have any recommendations for cigar types? Fill, binder, wrapper, etc.

Thanks.

Wes H.
 

deluxestogie

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I grow anywhere from about 140 to 250 plants each year. The higher numbers go along with growing many Oriental varieties, or planting extra beds. This year I have 12 varieties total. That's gone as high as 43 varieties, which was not sane.

Excellent cigar varieties (in no particular order):
American
  • Little Dutch
  • Dutch (Ohio)
  • PA Red
  • Long Red
  • Swarr-Hibshman
  • Havana 322
  • Comstock Spanish
Central/South American/Caribbean
  • Bahia (Brazil Mata Fina)
  • Machu Picchu Havana
  • Vuelta Abajo
  • Corojo 99
  • Criollo (Cuba)
  • Piloto Cubano
  • Olor
  • Hacienda del Cura (actually from the Canary Islands)
Italian
  • Nostrano del Brenta
Wrapper/Binder specific
  • Besuki
  • Timor
  • Florida Sumatra
  • CT Broadleaf
Yeah, I forgot about A, B and C. Oh, and then there are X, Y, and Z.

Bob
 
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