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BarG

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Try the peroxide. TMV is a virus, milk and BT will do absolutely nothing for it. I doubt the peroxide will either but at least it is known to kill bacteria.fungi and viruses. By spraying both sides of the leaves, especially the underside ( and in the early morning hours) the stomata will be open and the spray will be taken up into the plant's vascular system.

Didn't that pdf file say to rinse hands in milk after handling TMV? Or I may have read that on another search about TMV. I was curios about that. Another thing I was curious about is actualy diagnosing an early stage of the virus, what with the texture of tobacco leaves and all It seems if it were present it would be fairly obvious, but some of the pics. are hard to tell if its a virus or natural texture and weathering of the plant leaves.
 

leverhead

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Boboro

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Im going to experiment with some contaminated soil with chlorine and alcohol .You just can't get a clear answer from government sponsored colleges.I'm going to put chlorine and alcohol into some contaminated soil and see what kills TMV.Since I already have it,i'm want to see what kills it.
 

Boboro

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its gonna be a controlled scientific experiment im going to use three samples of the soil and three different plants one ill use alchol to treat the soil the other ill use chlorine and the final one will be my control
 

Jitterbugdude

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It seems that the milk proteins bind with the protein coat on the TMV, inactivating it. Reducing it's ability to spread, I hope it works.

I guess I think different from a lot of people. The way I look at it is this: Using milk might indeed reduce it's ability to spread. But why not try something systemic?, something that will get into the vascular system and kill it? It it were me I would try a foliar of peroxide. I would also take a syringe and inject varying concentrations of peroxide into the stalk. I would also do the same thing using Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C). Even Gibberillic Acid has shown to be beneficial in TMV cases. It doesn't cure it though, seems it just makes the plant put on more green leafy growth which helps to compensate for the leaf that is dying.
 

deluxestogie

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Once a plant cell is infected with TMV, the active virus is nothing more than a strand of RNA. There is no separate, complex organism, like a bacterium or worm. It's just an RNA strand inside a plant cell.

If you manage, by a systemic treatment, to denature the RNA, I would imagine that you would also be denaturing all the RNA and DNA in any plant cells subjected to the treatment. In general, chemicals that effectively kill viruses (outside its host) are likely to kill the host, if used systemically.

Most ag extension services suggest a crop rotation away from a TMV susceptible crop for 2 years. Kiln temperatures (125ºF) are likely to kill TMV within cured leaf. Most studies have shown that TMV is not transmitted in clean tobacco seed.

Chlorine kills by halogenating organic compounds. This includes protozoa and bacteria and viruses. But the effective dose needs to be high enough to also halogenate all of the organic compounds within the material surrounding the organism. The result is a lot of organo-chlorines, many of which may be toxic to humans.

Alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol) doesn't really kill much of anything, even those alcohol wipes that hospitals use before puncturing your skin with a needle. It just doesn't work as an effective antiseptic on an organic surface (like your skin). It is, though, an effective cleansing agent. So, wiping an instrument with an alcohol swab serves to cleanse it, but not disinfect it. Treating dirt with alcohol? I'm not sure what that would do.

I commend the thought of an experiment. Unfortunately, the number of trials within each group would need to be greater (I would guess about 6 of each group) to end up with results that are more convincing than random variation. Otherwise, it's like buying one Chevy, one Ford, and one Mercedes, to determine which manufacturer is better.

Bob
 

Rayshields

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Otherwise, it's like buying one Chevy, one Ford, and one Mercedes, to determine which manufacturer is better.

I already know the answer to that one...none of the above.
 

Jitterbugdude

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In general, chemicals that effectively kill viruses (outside its host) are likely to kill the host, if used systemically.
Bob, I agree, even the anti -virals for humans have some pretty serious side effects. All I've been saying is that if I had a nasty outbreak of TMV I would be trying everything ( within scientific reason) but the kitchen sink.
 

Boboro

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Next year Im going to plant TMV resistant hybrids and hope we have a spring Hell I mite grow some in a kitchen sink. The dirt I put pool shock in still stinks like chlorine and looks bad.
 

Boboro

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107 for the 2nd. day in a row all I can do is move the hose a round the garden and wait for shade. The water man is going to repo my house. It a'nt rained in over two weeks. On the brite side I got rid of the TMV plants An most of the rest are doing good. If nothing happens I'll have a good crop. A? Can I finish drying the steams in the kiln with the water removedfrom it .
 

johnlee1933

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107 for the 2nd. day in a row all I can do is move the hose a round the garden and wait for shade. The water man is going to repo my house. It a'nt rained in over two weeks. On the brite side I got rid of the TMV plants An most of the rest are doing good. If nothing happens I'll have a good crop. A? Can I finish drying the steams in the kiln with the water removedfrom it .

Good point. I will have leaf mostly color cured when the bulk of my crop comes in. I need the space. Like Boboro:

QUESTION: Can I take down fully colored but still damp stemmed leaf, tie it in hands and throw it in the kiln?

John
 

deluxestogie

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I would say yes. The problem with damp stems tied in hands is that the stems will mold. But at kiln temps (~125ºF +- 5ºF) and typical undulating humidity, I don't think mold shoud be a problem. You could also start off with a dry kiln, then raise the humidity after 5 days.

Bob
 

BarG

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The sun scald on my few plants was mostly on the tips working inwards and did not affect the whole leaf. Its like it became transparent and lost its chloropyl between leaf ribs after,turning dark green and droopy [not healthy] It would get real droopy first and turn dark green before scalding, while surrounding plant is absolutely fine.
[If sun scalding is what it was. ] Leaf survives and plants recover just fine despite damage to an individual leaf or 2.
 
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