Should they Stay or Should they Go, Damaged Plants.

[Brown Thumb]

As you know I had a severe slug problem and some plants just about got eaten alive.
Should I just replace the bad ones I have plenty left. Why waste more planting area if these plants are not going to produce anything. Two pics of damaged ones and one pic of the average size plant and the size of the ones I can transplant with.
Thanks all and have a Super Day.
Tom

 

[BarG]

I would get those better looking plants in the ground If it was me, But I would squeak in without pulling anything already planted. Those tips look undamaged and may take off despite damage to lower leaves, They may have been put out a little early . That third pic looks good. I put some bursa in full sun last friday and the bigger the plant the better it faired . 15 out of 15 have made it though. My havana 41 had every leaf cut off by a cutworm and it put out shoots immediately. Tobacco is a tough plant once it gets rooted good..

Tim

 

[Chicken]

i wouldnt pull them,,,,

as stated above,, it will come back and grow strong

 

[BigBonner]

I would get rid of all that bark / stick mulch . Use bare ground .

 

[Brown Thumb]

I am already pulling weeds. There is two things that grow real well up here and that is ROCKS AND WEEEEEDS.
I have to put something down and I have a wood chipper so it is free mulch.

 

[BarG]

I would get rid of all that bark / stick mulch . Use bare ground .

I think [I know! Some advice should not be disregarded.] I'd listen to Bonner! Thats all I use. I did take deluxestogies advice and tilled in dolomitic lime and composted manure though this year instead of chemical fertilizer.

 

[LeftyRighty]

I agree also with Bonner..... tobacco does better without a ground cover. Once the plants get bigger, the shade from the lower leaves limits weed growth. I've got a chipper/shredder also. I pile the chips for at least a year first, then use them as path cover between the rows - don't like walking in mud. Gets tilled in in the fall, with a little urea to help with decomposition. Even then, takes a couple more years to fully compost, but it does help with clayey soils.

 

[Brown Thumb]

I know if anybody knows it is Bigbonner!! And I was bummed when I saw his comment. But I have no choice there is no way I could keep up with the weeds.
What is bad thing about using wood mulch. Bugs , Snails ?

 

[workhorse_01]

If you need to use the mulch draw a circle around the outermost tips of the leaves this is the dripline dont put the mulch in the circle then the excess moisture wont cause problems and you stop the weeds from the rest of the landscape. This is the same thing we do for our orange trees.

 

[deluxestogie]

Slugs, snails and earwigs love to hide beneath decaying wood chips during the day. So you're choosing to keep the fox in the hen house.

Bob

 

[BarG]

I'm hesitant to add to much uncomposted wood shavings when preparing my soil as I read somewhere it draws nitrogen out of the soil while decomposing. Does that ring any bells or do I need to research further on this. I have a mini mountain of uncontaminated green wood and dried wood shavings but they take forever to break down it seems.

 

[workhorse_01]

I've always been told that organic matter helps ballance out ph .and helps hold water , but those wood chips are'nt decomposed so i think he's useing them as cover for the weeds. I just get on the tractor and run the middles and the dirt from them covers the grass and kills it.

 

[LeftyRighty]

BarG.....yeah, seems like forever for wood chips to compost. It's been my understanding that the biggest demand for nitrogen in decompostition of wood is during the early stages. After a season or two (or years), it's like any other organic material. It's always best to till into the soil in the fall, with a little fertilizer.

Been doing this for a few years - never noticed it to inhibit my crops.

 

[BarG]

Bark decomposes faster and easier than wood chips. Eventualy it would be beneficial. I've used wood chips as a weed prevention before and them weeds always find a way to get in there. I always leave enough room to till between rows to loosen the soil and weed till plants overgrow the area in question, then I go green and get out the hoe and elbow grease, [Or let them grow] and save that $3.60 a gallon gas.

edit; last year I hoed a few rows then noticed when the deer finished all the leaves on my veggies they started mowing between my baccy rows. So I let them grow. They would always leave enough veg. plant to keep growing new leaves for the next snack. This year as in predrought year no deers in my garden unless you count the two legged kind.

 

[Daniel]

I agree with the comments on the mulch. mulch or cover the paths between but keep it away frot eh plants. It is still housing for those things eating your plants. All you really have damaged are the trash leaves that will rot long before you harvest the plants. in effect you really have not lost much except maybe some strength in growth for a bit. and that will be only a short bit. I woudl leave them and concentrate on eliminating the threat. You now know who the enemy is and where they are. Full frontal assault is in order.

 

[Chicken]

ive never been too much of a mulch guy,,,

i got my rows '' covered'' so mulch wouldnt do me too much good,

 

[Brown Thumb]

I do not have the time to take the mulch out, there is like 1200 plants in that patch I will pull it away from the plants.
I was going to mulch the other patch in but I will leave that one alone about 600 plants.
there is black plastic between the rows. the mulch is between the plants and plastic.
Gotta go plant the sweet corn. Damm it is hot out already.