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Whole Leaf Tobacco

Pipe Repair and Refurbish

OldDinosaurWesH

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#81
I do't know much about pipes, but I do know some about wood. I'm guessing that the wood needs to be very hard and uniform. It would also need to be free of natural oils that would add some kind of flavor to the smoking experience. Those two criteria alone would eliminate most kinds of hardwoods. I have some myrtle wood burl from Oregon. It is very beautiful, but lacks the hardness and uniformity to make something like a pipe. I need to decide what to do with that stuff - maybe a shop project this winter would be appropriate. Nice pipe! Keep at it.

Wes H.
 

deluxestogie

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#82
I would guess that a block of Oregon myrtle burl might actually make a decent pipe bowl. A 2" x 3" chunk is all you'd have to sacrifice to find out. (I think the shavings and the leaves would make an interesting contribution to the smoke of fire-curing some Latakia.)

Of course, to make a nice pipe (unlike my hand-whittled applewood pipe), you need a small metal lathe and a belt sander. At one time, we had a number of members who made superb pipes. Aside from Cowboy, I'm not sure which other members turn pipe bowls here in the US.

Bob
 

Sid.Stavros

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#83
A modification that i have made some years ago that's why the photos and the video aren't so good. I bought a gourd calabash bowl year 1907 and i have done some modifications plus new stem, new tenon, new meerschaum insert.
He came to me like this:




I worked hard in many sectors





and now looks like this:





You can see the procedure step by step here: http://pipe-smoke.blogspot.gr/2010/02/gourd-calabash.html
The code for this pipe is Gourd-1

or you can watch it in a video with slide show photos and instrumental music:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4QmX8KQqzc

Ladies & Gentlemen thank you for watching!

 

Sid.Stavros

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#84
I had this Fe.Ro pipe abandoned for long time [the bowl wasn't good and i had lost the mouthpiece] but one day i decide to give to her a new look.



after some rustic work with hand tool and a bit, some painting work plus a mouthpiece addendum started to look like this:



You can see the procedure step by step here: http://pipe-smoke.blogspot.gr/2010/02/7.html
The pipe code is: M7-10

Ladies & Gentlemen thank you for watching!

 

Smokin Harley

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#90
Sid, I enjoy seeing the pipes you salvage and bring back to better than their original beauty . I have some old pipes a friend gave me that have a screw-in type mouthpiece. There is a ,lets refer to it as a spacer, that comes between the bowl piece and the mouth piece,they appear to be brass . These couple pipes when the mouthpiece is fully installed for use,the mouthpiece does not align correctly and I believe a slightly thicker "spacer" is needed to make it so. What material could I use to make new ones , I'm actually thinking of a tortoise shell guitar pick ,drill a small hole for the stem threads and then somehow sand or take material away to match the outside surface of the bowl stem joint without marring the surface of the briar. Not quite sure how to go about this .I would have to find a source for some very fine (6000)sandpaper/emery cloth . I'd appreciate some advice on how to do it. Thanks
 

Sid.Stavros

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#91
There is a ,lets refer to it as a spacer, that comes between the bowl piece and the mouth piece,they appear to be brass . These couple pipes when the mouthpiece is fully installed for use,the mouthpiece does not align correctly and I believe a slightly thicker "spacer" is needed to make it so.
Sorry for the delay but since there isn't a " What are you smoking" thread in pipe section i have no notifications. As for the space i think you can cover it but a clear photo would help me a lot to decide what kind of material and how you are going to use it.
 

Smokin Harley

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#93
Sorry for the delay but since there isn't a " What are you smoking" thread in pipe section i have no notifications. As for the space i think you can cover it but a clear photo would help me a lot to decide what kind of material and how you are going to use it.
No worry on the delay . It is after all the holiday season and we all get caught up in family stuff . I'll see about a pic here soon. Stand by...I have a couple in the same condition. Good smoking pipes , just need some stem to bowl alignment help
 

Smokin Harley

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#94
20171229_105912.jpg
Here they are. Both pipes are Kaywoodie Campus with threaded bowl the stem fitment. As you can see the one im holding is tight yet crooked in alignment. You can also see the spacer im talking about on the one on the desk.
 

Smokin Harley

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#95
15145670265251985729408.jpg
Ive unscrewed the stem and now visible is the threaded bayonnet style coupler. The spacer appears to be a press fit . I cant put too much more of a shim spacer in or it wont screw in properly and im thinking may throw off the draw somewhat.
 

Sid.Stavros

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#96
I have seen that stinger in Grabow and Kaywoodie but in Golden Gate and old Gourd calabash too. Personally i don't like it and i remove it but since you want to keep it we have a huge problem!

1) that ring is glued in the shank, if you try remove by heat it you may damage the shank very badly
2) the "face" of the mouthpiece aka Stem's Face is worn a little bit thus when you tighten it won't fit exactly as it did from the factory, this happened because the previous owner was careless and pushed hard to the right the mouthpiece each time

It's very difficult to work inside the bolts of the shank, each time you have to work by a quarter, make a test, not fit, again block a quarter of the bolt, test, not fit, again....etc till you find the perfect point.
You can to the opposite work on the mouthpiece but this is a "no turn back" work, one mistake and the mouthpiece may fit but the stamp will be in wrong position looking the sky.

If you still want to keep that stinger and mouthpiece i have something to suggest:
Remove by heat and gently the stinger from the mouthpiece
Clean the stinger from old glues
Clean the bolts inside the shank
Tighten the stinger alone inside
Work gently inside the channel on the mouthpiece but NOT too tough, don't make the channel too wide
Have ready an epoxy glue plus a cyanoacrylate glue
Clean with high grit sandpaper the "face" of the mouthpiece but gently, make a test if fits properly, if not work till you get the perfect alignment
Put a little bit of epoxy on the stinger and one drop inside the mouthpiece and push it to the stinger
Make the alignment and keep it as is for few minutes, push it good and wait.

The cyaoacrylate will keep the mouthpiece where you want it [the stamp is horizontal] and will accelerate the work of epoxy which will make the stinger glue hard
Don't put too much of epoxy because will come out and make the things worst and don't waist time after the use of the cyanoacrylate, push and immediately hold it tightly and wait few minutes.
Finally take a look the pipe in "profile", if everything is OK then gently put somewhere the pipe vertical and wait overnight to dry. I insist in vertical and don't touch the mouthpiece till the morning!

I wish you the best. :cool:
 

Smokin Harley

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#97
Thanks Sid. Your suggestion is pretty much what I expected Id need to do . Since they are the same basic pipe besides a slight bowl shape difference , I may try it on one .If it goes south I'll leave the other one as is .
 

Sid.Stavros

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ok so now that youve made these tools , how are they used ?
You have seen rusticated pipes in my photos or videos, some ot them have been done with these tools and some with my dremel-style tool
To be honest often those tools of the above video "give me some hard time" because i don't have the proper bench or vice to work comfortably but i m trying to do my best.
 
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