BristolBaccy Grow Log 2023

[BristolBaccy]

As my last seed order finally arrived (now I know why it took so long!), I guess it's time to start a small grow log..



I only have a very small garden, and much of that is turned over to wildlife (pond, trees, etc). I have to compete with my wife for the remaining area that can be used for growing.
I've put my name down on an allotment waiting list, but I'm 30th on it (~3 year wait), so I'll checking around family & friends for any spare space.

I grow in pots as I often need to move them around, plus it's much easier to keep them slug/snail free by adding a ring of copper tape around each pot. 2022 was my first year (just Virginia) and no other pests seemed interested.

I don't expect to get much space to borrow, so I'm only going for flavour/utility varieties, plus a couple of rustica to try out:




If I get room to grow 5-6 of each, I'll be happy! My bulk 'standards' (Virginia/Burley/Oriental) are bought from a German retailer.

We have quite a collection of LED growlights as my wife has a pretty big chilli collection already. As frosts generally end around early March on the West Coast of England (Gulf Stream comes right up the Bristol Channel), and we have a home-made conservatory, I'll be getting a batch of the above started this weekend.

 

[BristolBaccy]

And we're off!

Standard shop compost, crumbled finely and lumps removed. Moistened then gently pressed flat.

I added about 40 seeds (tip of a teaspoon) per tray, thinly spread. If I get 10%, that's fine by me.

Light is also helping a few other plants on the shelf get through the winter, timed 06.00-22.00

 

[GreenDragon]

If your seeds are fresh expect 90%+ germination rate at 70F. Remove the lids as soon as they sprout to prevent damping off disease. Also grow in at least a 5 gallon bucket for each plant, and put a brick or some gravel in the bottom to give it a little wind protection.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Old Gasman]

Looks good as long as a late frost doesn't catch you unawares. I wouldn't have the courage to put mine in the garden until the start of May.

 

[BristolBaccy]

If your seeds are fresh expect 90%+ germination rate at 70F. Remove the lids as soon as they sprout to prevent damping off disease. Also grow in at least a 5 gallon bucket for each plant, and put a brick or some gravel in the bottom to give it a little wind protection.

Good luck and have fun!

TBH, I'm not sure how fresh they are, coming from various online sources but 90% would be great! Good tip about the brick, mine did get blown about a bit last year - got some extra-large pots that had tree saplings in previously.

 

[BristolBaccy]

Looks good as long as a late frost doesn't catch you unawares. I wouldn't have the courage to put mine in the garden until the start of May.

By March it's pretty much Spring over this side of the UK. I started late last year, and ran out of warm weather for curing so had to resort to cardboard boxes

 

[BristolBaccy]

A quick evening check of the seeds trays with a magnifying glass - we have germination! Bloody awkward to take a pic I'm afraid

 

[skychaser]

If your seeds are fresh expect 90%+ germination rate at 70F.

"Fresh" is not always best. It has more to do with proper storage. Tobacco seed will easily keep for 10 years or longer. USDA studies have shown tobacco seed germination rates to remain stable for the first 5 years, then decline at an average of 2% per year. My own personal experience with testing is that they keep even longer and germ rates decline very slowly from the initial germ rate. Seed that has sat for 4-5 months always tests higher than freshly harvested seed. And two year old seed often tests higher than it does the first year. This is due to enzymes that coat the seed. They act as timers to prevent premature germination in a false spring scenario. With tobacco, most break down with exposure to the air over time. Some enzymes are photosensitive and break down with exposure to light. But I have only ever encountered a couple of tobacco strains that seems to be somewhat photosensitive. Many types of seed are coated by various enzymes with different conditions required to release the seed from dormancy.

BristolBaccy, Germination in 4-5 days means you have good seed and are doing things right! Lift the covers up by a 1/2 inch on one end so they can breath a little now. Keep misting them once a day for a few more days until germination is complete. Then remove the covers and start watering normally. From the bottom up is best. But don't let them stand in water. The light needs to be close to prevent them from stretching and becoming leggy. They grow very slowly the first couple weeks. Don't worry about that. It's normal. By week 3-4 they really take off and grow,

​

 

[BristolBaccy]

We store all our seeds in the fridge as a best practice

I lift the covers to check them each day & refresh the air - today's check puts the Aztec well into the lead with cotyledons already out - Go Team Rustica!

 

[deluxestogie]

We store all our seeds in the fridge as a best practice

Dry. Dry. Dry. The longevity of tobacco seed depends on its being kept as dry as possible. This has been well documented in unelectrified areas of India.

I store multiple poly bags of seed within a "dry-box", each dry-box containing its own pack of desiccant. I store those dry-boxes within a refrigerator.

When I need to open one of the dry-boxes, I remove the box from the fridge, and allow it to come to room temperature, prior to opening it. If opened when cold, moisture from the room will promptly condense within the box and its contents.

Bob

 

[BristolBaccy]

We have a 'traditional' seed tin, but I like the sealed plastic - we have plenty and it'd make a lot more sense

 

[BristolBaccy]

First baby photo (the unknown rustica isn't far behind)

 

[skychaser]

Dry. Dry. Dry. The longevity of tobacco seed depends on its being kept as dry as possible.

Yes! This is the biggest factor. You want to keep the moisture content at 5% or lower.

I sell tobacco seed to many seed retailers around the world. One very large company who has been in business since 1974 retests their seed every year. I won't name them to save them the embarrassment of what some improperly trained new employees were doing, and they should have known better. They require me to lab test all the seed I send them before shipping. They tested seed that I had sent them the previous year and the numbers were all over the place. One strain came back at only 8% germ rate! It had tested at 87% the year before. (most of my seeds tests well into the 90+% range) I sent in another sample of the same seed from the same bag I had sent them the year before and it came back at 89%. Why? They were taking the seed out of cold storage to package it and then putting it back into cold storage without letting it adjust to the packaging room temperature or readjust to the storage room temp. Moisture was condensing inside the containers. I recommend letting it adjust back to the cold storage temps too before resealing the containers. Better yet, do all the work in the cold room.

Cold storage does increase the the life span of the seed. Cold air holds much less moisture than warm air does and all chemistry happens slower at cold temps than warm temps. But it really isn't necessary if you store it as dry as possible. I live in an area that is classified as semi-arid. The humidity is generally very low and in the winter months I need to add some humidity to make it a little more livable inside for us humans. I store all my seed in an unheated room away from the living space that hovers around 40 degrees in the winter months and rarely exceeds 70 degrees in the summer. I need a coat on to work in there most of the year. My seed never leaves that room until it is shipped. As Bob said, Dry Dry Dry!

 

[furryfreek]

By March it's pretty much Spring over this side of the UK.

I dunno'. It's probably still a bit cold for comfort through most of March. The gulf stream's a bit of a double edged sword. We're free of frost exceptionally early but it takes a while for daylight and average temperatures to catch up compared to other places. Average max temps barely approach 10°C (50°F) here by March and the minimums continue to hover just above freezing until April. That's warm enough for tobacco to survive but cold enough to stunt growth. That's without taking wind-chill and grim weather into account, though. They'd probably be okay under something like a cloche or cold-frame but otherwise I'm not sure they'd cope well out in the open.

 

[BristolBaccy]

I'm hoping the lean-to twinwall conservatory will get them through. It's South-facing & I can heat it in a pinch

 

[furryfreek]

Ah, that sounds all good then. I'd like to get a head start myself for much the same reason but don't really have the space. I'll only end up having to give my seedlings more haircuts if I sow too early.

 

[BristolBaccy]

Looks like I've converted an old friend to WLT. A visit on Sunday, showing him the seedlings and the whole/prepped vacuum & fresh shred. Similar position to a lot of is in the UK, not much growing space so he's looking into a bulk purchase to start.

Seedlings all coming on strong, except for the Prilep which, considering it's long journey across the Steppes, is not wholly surprising but it's popped up enough for me to remain optimistic. I'm lead to believe that it prefers closer growing conditions and some shade.

 

[BBB]

I have to compete with my wife for the remaining area that can be used for growing.

Hehe, my wife was somehow happy yesterday and I was able to secure enough of garden for planting 100 pieces

 

[furryfreek]

I'm lead to believe that it [Prilep] prefers closer growing conditions and some shade.

As seedlings, there shouldn't be a lot of difference between varieties aside from germination rates/times. Those that germinate more slowly (or take a more varied amount of time) can be kept under cover a bit longer accordingly, but they should all be treated the same otherwise.

Orientals like Prilep are traditionally planted closer but, unless it's literally a matter of them frying to death otherwise, shade probably isn't a good thing. I planted my Basma (a similar variety) with too tight a row spacing last year and the result was the opposite of what I intended; they grew taller with larger, thinner leaves due to overcrowding (over-fertilisation may have played into it too.) If you're growing in containers, that should restrict their root-systems much as if they were planted close together in the ground but you also have the advantage of being able to space them however you like for optimal sunlight.

 

[deluxestogie]

Oriental Tobacco Planting Densities
The above reference assumes that there is sunshine.

Bob