“Staying alive”: @ChrisN
- Thread starter ChrisN
- Start date
My dad gave me a candela wrapped cigar by acid/Drew estate with a black small label that says kuba kuba. I am having it now and it’s pretty good. Has a slight sweetness to it. I’m sure mine wouldn’t taste like that though lol
Sumatra that I planted in a flower pot. Just as Bob mentioned in his book how to grow your own cigars the plant definitely didn’t grow to its full potential being in the pot. Definitely better to plant them in the ground. First picture was taken last night and second picture was a couple weeks ago.
I wonder if some of the smaller varieties like little Dutch would grow to its full potential in a pot or if it would be smaller?
I wonder if some of the smaller varieties like little Dutch would grow to its full potential in a pot or if it would be smaller?
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The sizes of most Oriental varieties seem unaffected by being in a pot. Little Dutch, on the other hand is "little" only in its height. That is, the distance between its leaf nodes are closer than, for example, those of Ohio Dutch. But the stalk of Little Dutch (grown in the ground) tends to be 1¼ inches thick or more. I don't consider Little Dutch to be little.
Bob
EDIT: Growing in a grow bag seems to differ significantly from growing in a pot. See @Knucklehead's 2023 grow log.
Bob
EDIT: Growing in a grow bag seems to differ significantly from growing in a pot. See @Knucklehead's 2023 grow log.
wruk53
Well-Known Member
I would remove them as soon as they yellow completely, then hang them to dry. If you leave them in the box too long, they might begin to rot. As soon as a leaf is completely yellow, you can dry it as quickly as you want, then cycle it in and out of case for aging.
Thank you very much, Bob, Johnny, wruk53! I’ll for sure check out Wallace’s grow blog and using the grow bags and grow little Dutch in the ground. I’ll try growing Black Sea Samsun or Turk Izmir in the pot.
I have been removing the leaves as soon as they are yellow so they aren’t in there too long to avoid rot. The leaves seemed to have done really good in the box piled up to color cure. Definitely a good method to use to color in dry conditions.
Here is a pic of the cherry red in the backyard that grew well. It did good but it seemed to have slightly stunted and didn’t grow to full potential like the Sumatra in the pot. Not sure why.
I have been removing the leaves as soon as they are yellow so they aren’t in there too long to avoid rot. The leaves seemed to have done really good in the box piled up to color cure. Definitely a good method to use to color in dry conditions.
Here is a pic of the cherry red in the backyard that grew well. It did good but it seemed to have slightly stunted and didn’t grow to full potential like the Sumatra in the pot. Not sure why.
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Alpine
Moderator
I’ve had better results with hydrogen peroxide than with vinegar, and H2O2 doesn’t affect the taste.
pier
pier
Thank you very much, Pier! I will for sure try the hydrogen peroxide.
Was wondering how cold can starts/transplants to the field take? I have been waiting to the end of May to start planting them in the field because of being worried it might be too cold but if I can plant them a little earlier like 2 weeks prior it might be better. If they can handle the low at night of in the 40's I should be able to plant them earlier.
Was wondering how cold can starts/transplants to the field take? I have been waiting to the end of May to start planting them in the field because of being worried it might be too cold but if I can plant them a little earlier like 2 weeks prior it might be better. If they can handle the low at night of in the 40's I should be able to plant them earlier.
Transplants are damaged by frost. I usually plan to transplant at my average date of last frost. When that time comes, I check a 14 day weather forecast, to see if there might be a surprise. If no expected frost in that forecast, then I start transplanting. That is the plan I followed in 2023. After putting in the Xanthi-Yaka 18a, they changed the forecast to predict a frost. Although most of the Xanthi-Yaka 18a showed some frost injury—despite covering them with Agribon-AG15, I did not need to replace any of them. [My transplanted winter squash, tomatoes and cukes were not covered, and suffered significant frost damage.]
If the temp stays above 32°F in your micro-climate, and there is a good breeze, then you are not likely to see frost. If there is no breeze, high humidity, and temps down into the mid 30s, leaves will frost.
Bob
If the temp stays above 32°F in your micro-climate, and there is a good breeze, then you are not likely to see frost. If there is no breeze, high humidity, and temps down into the mid 30s, leaves will frost.
Bob
Ok, thank you very much, Bob! I’ll see how the weather is next May and see how early I can plant them in the field. Kinda forget how this May went. This fall we are actually 2 weeks ahead of where we should be. So likely means winter will strike earlier than normal. I was wondering as I don’t remember the trees changing as early as they did and the local weatherman confirmed my thoughts lol
Search Google for "muriate".
Was wondering how long these seed pods have before drying up? This is the potted Sumatra. I’m only sorta concerned because it’s mid October and the weather seems to be cooling off a bit. Do you think I’ll have to move it indoors or do you think the seeds will be ok and be ready fairly soon?
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Alpine
Moderator
I cannot see any properly formed seed pod yet, they will need two full weeks at least. Wait until the pods are fully brown before harvesting. If the weather doesn’t cooperate, bring the plant indoors.
pier
pier