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Advice on how/where to germinate seeds

manfisher

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I am a brand new tobacco grower, in fact I just bought my first selection of seeds. We live in an apartment that is laid out in the picture below. We have two large north facing windows and two bedrooms on the south side of the apartment. My parents live on acreage about an hour away which is where I plan to plant them once they germinate. I am a bit stuck on what to do for the germination process however. While there is a great place to put the seeds to get some sunlight, we have two young cats that get into absolutely everything which is making it difficult to figure out where to put the seeds. Here are my two thoughts:

1. Put them in a propagator and tape it closed so that it hinges and put it on the dining room table which is adjacent to the western most window so that even if the cats tamper with it, they wouldn't be able to eat/harm the seeds.
2. Put them in our spare bedroom with some sort of light
3. Put them in our spare bedroom in a propagator

What would you suggest? If I were to choose option 2, what sort of light should I get (both wattage and actual brand of light fixture if you have any suggestions).
 

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deluxestogie

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Welcome to the forum. Be sure to read the New Growers' FAQ, and scan through the topics in our Index of Key Forum Threads. Both are linked in the menu bar.

Feel free to introduce yourself in our Introduce Yourself forum. You might also enjoy starting your own 2024 grow log in our Grow Blogs section.

I do sunshine, and know nothing about germination light bulbs.

Bob
 

GreenDragon

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Hi and welcome to the forum! A few comments to hopefully get you on the path to success.

If you are in the PNW don’t count on sunlight through a window to grow your plants. NT likes strong sun and heat. And I know as an owner cats love to destroy anything you love. My advice is to lock the cats out of one of the rooms, set up a high quality grow light, and use a germination heating mat under your seedling trays. For the light search for one at either an aquarium supply store (for planted aquariums) or at a site that caters to Electric Lettuce growers. Start your seeds two months prior to the last frost date for your parent’s location.

Are you looking to grow for cigars, pipe, or cigs? What seeds did you buy?

Have fun and good luck!
 

manfisher

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Hi and welcome to the forum! A few comments to hopefully get you on the path to success.

If you are in the PNW don’t count on sunlight through a window to grow your plants. NT likes strong sun and heat. And I know as an owner cats love to destroy anything you love. My advice is to lock the cats out of one of the rooms, set up a high quality grow light, and use a germination heating mat under your seedling trays. For the light search for one at either an aquarium supply store (for planted aquariums) or at a site that caters to Electric Lettuce growers. Start your seeds two months prior to the last frost date for your parent’s location.

Are you looking to grow for cigars, pipe, or cigs? What seeds did you buy?

Have fun and good luck!
Thanks GreenDragon! That is really good to know. What wattage would you recommend? I bought a variety for cigar wrappers and fillers, a variety of VA for pipe tobacco, and some burlys and rustica's for snus. Thanks for your input!
 

willgodwin

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wruk53

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If you don't want to spend a lot of money, you can set up some 'ghetto lights' using a power strip, plug to socket pieces and screw in LED bulbs. This is what I used before I bought my setup, and it works fine for starting and growing seedlings to the transplant stage. It would work the best inside of a cabinet painted flat white, but I suppose you could mount it under a kitchen cabinet also. It would need to be mounted within 6 to 8 inches from the top of your trays or whatever type of containers you use to start the seeds in. I used 9w 810 lumens in the 'daylight' spectrum. A power strip like the one pictured will hold 3 bulbs and you could daisy chain more power strips for added coverage. If you mount it in a cabinet, you will need to install a small computer type fan mounted over a cutout in the top to exhaust the heat.
 

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GrowleyMonster

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I really like the Jiffy Self Watering Greenhouse kits. https://www.amazon.com/Jiffy-5262-Watering-Professional-Greenhouse/dp/B002TO5EME .

After the initial watering to expand the peat pucks, I use a toothpick to pick up individual seeds and transfer them to the top of each puck, three seeds for each one. Just wet the end of the toothpick and touch it to a seed and it will cling. roll/spin the toothpick in contact with the peat and it will transfer. Don't poke them down into the peat or bury them in any way. They need light as soon as they sprout.

The self watering tray system works really good to maintain moisture 24/7. Just add water every few days through the two empty spaces in the top tray. For the first three days or so keep them covered with the clear dome lid, so they get plenty of humidity, just don't let them overheat. Constant moisture will have the seeds sprouting in only a few days. Once the seeds split open, you want to expose them to as much sun as possible without letting them dry out. They also don't germinate well if it is too cool. They sprout well for me in low 70's. Many experts suggest that a diurnal temperature change between about 68°F and 86°F is ideal. Anyway, going much outside that range will retard germination.

Once the sprouts have four leaves, I thin to two per puck if all three seeds sprouted. After 4 weeks I thin to one plant per puck. When roots begin poking through bottom of puck I move the whole puck to a bag or pot filled with a potting soil or seed starting mix. After about 10 days, any puck with no sprout on it, feel free to re-seed. I would rather reseed than transfer a sprout from one that has extra to one that has none, because it can break the tiny roots and retard growth more than reseeding 10 days later.

After final thinning I start setting the plants outside during the day to harden up, if weather allows. After frost danger is past I set them out in the ground minimum 2-1/2' apart. They do best when watered from below. Soaker hose works well, particularly under a light layer of mulch. Top watering can cause problems. BT (Bacillus Thurigensis) is good for controlling hornworms, which can really mess up your crop. Heavy constant rain can contribute to loss from disease or fungus.

Most varieties do best with as much direct sunshine as possible, and too much shade will make plants spindly and weak, and require stakes or wires.Otherwise the stalks will lay down and run along the ground. Growth may be slow initially but once soil warms up good and plants get about knee high, they will start very rapid growth. Be ready to stake them as necessary. Some taller breeds are susceptible to wind damage if unstaked.

But I am getting ahead of myself. Try one of the self watering 70 puck Jiffy self watering greenhouse kits. It is absolutely the best way I have found for germinating a small amount of tobacco. 70 plants or less, anyway. It works great for peppers or tomatoes or many other vegetables that are commonly planted as seedlings.
 
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