Yea I mean there may be no problem at all, but I couldn't find anywhere that gives a description of their process and since their profile boasts of being the only seed supplier that is cross pollinating I don't trust it.
Life continues to be super busy with the new baby and work. Today I managed to get the outside acclimated plants into their pots finally, I have been racing to get them into pots and have been upset that we've had so many sunny days here in the 80s in October. I hope it persists. They got bigger than I thought they could in the 9oz cups.
Group 1/2 mix - 10/27 - 7 weeks 1 day old/6 weeks 4 days old
Group 2 - 10/27 - 6 weeks 4 days old still in room waiting for garage grow area to be finished
My garage space is also coming along, I have all 3 lights hung and am part way through building the walls. I am aiming to put up the 2nd wall, drywall and paint it a flat latex white tomorrow, and be able to move the plants in on sunday. Also need to add the extra breaker to my box and run wire to make an extra plug as these lights pull constant max amperage.
The greenhouse build has been put off a couple of weeks because we had a couple vacation things for next summer pop up at the same time this week that need payments. A family boat trip and Comic Con 2018 pre registration. Once I get that up I hope that plants will be able to grow through our sunny winter. I have no doubt they will grow well under the lights in the garage. In case I haven't mentioned what they are, I have 3 1000w HID light systems up, 2 will have digital ballasts and the third is on a magnetic ballast. I am using Metal Halide (MH) bulbs right now and after an appropriate amount of time has passed and it seems to be in the more mature stage of the plants life, I will swap them out with High Pressure Sodium (HPS) bulbs which are meant for the fruit/flowering stage of plants. If anyone has any questions about lights, I have researched a fair amount at this point and am happy to share what I learned. I will obviously also have results to share in time.
The pest problem seems to be not as bad as it was, I have checked the outside plants daily and they seem to be fine, no visible loss of leaf anyways. I have sprayed them with spinosad from home depot a couple of times and in the pictures you can see a white presence around the floor at the base of the pots. I dusted the plants and ground with diatomaceous earth. It has already been killing pests coming into my house and should work on slugs and snails as well.
Being in the heart of farm country, you are definitely going to have to keep after the pest problem. They've got every kind of bug you can think of around there. And since it rarely freezes around there, none of the pesky critters ever die from the cold.
Good luck with the growing, and I look forward to hearing about your progress.
The plants are growing, the ones in their big pots seemed to not be growing but looking back at the pictures I took it does seem that they have grown a bit. I'm hoping that it just is taking them a week or two to adjust. The only ones that seem stubborn are my MD 609. They don't seem to want to grow upwards.
Group 1/2 outside - 11/8/17 - 8 weeks 6 days old/ 8 weeks 2 days old
Some from Group 6/7 that got too tall and had to be taken out of tray and a few backup Black Sea Samsun that I planted on 10/10 (red cups)
I am pretty happy with group 6 and 7 so far..I did think something was weird though..most of the pics that i've been able to see on here of seedlings showed them tall..I tried the trimming on these two groups after reading that it forces them to expend more energy into root and stem growth since my first couple of groups grew big leaves but no stem really..even after trimming the leaves only a few varieties showed longer/heavier stem growth while the rest kept bulking up their leaves..another thing is that the black sea samsun i planted in red cups on the 10th of last month aren't even a month old and they just shot up and the tallest is at 6 in right now..the starter soils i used are a couple different ones but spread evenly throughout the varieties, each one having at least one cell of each soil..watering was also the exact same..is this normal growth or am I missing something?
Your plants look very good !
Don't worry about the plant main stem to take time to grow, generaly when they grow upward it means that they lack light (when young). It's good if you have tall leaves on short plants.
The plants grow higher when they are a bit older.
We don't need big plants, we just need big leaves
When grown in the ground, if the plants are too high, they are more sensitive to weather like wind... whereas shorter plants are stronger against wind.
I have some sucker leaf that is still alive that has endured 24 degrees and heavy frost. Seedlings are going to be more tender than that, but can tolerate cold fairly well. If 42 or 43 is the lowest you have to worry about you are in good shape.
the little plants were getting stressed under the t5 light in my room, and my sister who was supposed to monitor them while I was out of town for a few days didn't..some got burned a little and a lot went yellow..so i moved them out to the garage and they really just took off..most of the ugly ones perked back up and have greened up a bit and all of them grew significantly in the past few days..I think I need to start looking at putting them in their final pots..the only one that bugged me currently are my two Little Dutch which are the last 3 pictures above..they have some leaves that are never perky and some seem to be bending upward
Unfortunately a few plants seem to be already flowering, which is early. The two little dutch (pictured below) and a virginia 116. I am unsure about why they are and still baffled with why they look the way they do (pictures above in last post). The taller little dutch only stands about 19 in tall and the other is a bit shorter. The leaves are droopy. A few factors I'm thinking are light too close, not enough nutrients, not enough water (was very scared of overwatering and over fertilizing), and the fact that pots don't produce max size plants. Is it worth it to attempt to save seed from a plant that doesn't reach average mature levels? Will the seeds produced, produce stunted plants? This was partially expected and I am glad I am experimenting before next natural season, cross my fingers I will be able to find and close a house by spring with a bit of land to plant.
Very strange. The only other time I have heard of premature blooming was from my friend who lives in the LA area. Some of his tobacco plants were stunted and only grew to about 3 feet, where previously that particular variety was six plus feet. I know he planted very early that year, in February vs. a more normal May.
That other weed is known to be photoperiodic, that is, the blooms can be induced by manipulating the length of the day. I've never heard of tobacco being photoperiodic. But, I've never used artificial light to actually grow tobacco. How many hours of light are you giving them?
Maybe the deluxestogie man will have an idea. He is very knowledgeable when it comes to tobacco growing.
It's really difficult to make sense out of so many simultaneous, non-normal conditions. The curled upper leaves in the first photo of 11/25 are suggestive of Frenching, which is a generalized nutrient deficiency that can be the result of either inadequate soil nutrients or unsuitable soil pH.
Pots seem to do okay outdoors. Potted plants indoors tend to be runty. In your previous post, the larger leaves with white flecks could be weather fleck, which is leaf damage due to air pollution (usually high ozone), and some varieties are particularly sensitive. Also, unless the soil feels truly dry when you stick your finger into it, you are not underwatering (assuming you are watering from the bottom, or watching water drain out the bottom holes when you water from the top).
Potted, indoors, funky light cycle, unnatural light spectrum. Gosh. You should be pleased with your plants. You can save seed, and most likely it won't produce runted plants, if the new generation is grown under reasonable conditions (in the dirt, under the sky, during the right season of the year).
For a treat, you might put some or all of the potted plants outdoors now, only bringing them inside if the forecast threatens to drop below about 35ºF. They may just show you love in return. I'm doing that presently with a sucker from a potted Havana 322, and your 10-day forecast looks a hell of a lot nicer than mine.
Is your light fixed? If so, then a track system or oscillating system would make a huge difference. The idea is to imitate the natural tracking across the sky that the sun does every day. They use such systems in commercial greenhouses. The commercial guys also regulate the length of the day depending on what they are trying to produce. If you want red (colored) Poinsettia's you subject them to a short day. If you want Strawberries to bloom you subject them to long days. These are examples of photoperiodism. Again, I've never heard of photoperiodism in tobacco, but a long-day cycle of say, 13 to 14 hours and some kind of moving lighting would be a substantial improvement.
I used a few different potting soils with that batch so it could be that it got an unfavorable one. For my newest potted ones I used strictly Fox Farms Ocean Forest which I heard was a really good potting soil. I am assuming the curling leaves had to do with not enough nutrients in the other potting soil and not getting enough from the amount I was giving them in the water, again as a first timer I was very worried about overdoing stuff and ended up underdoing certain things. Go figure. The pH is something I was really worried about but further studying led me to believe that it is very very hard to control ph in potted plants. In the end I added a layer to the top of Soil Acidifier and lightly mixed in but it may have just not acted fast enough to correct the problem. The lighting is fixed basically because I'm renting and hopefully will be moving to a permanent house of my own in the next few months and also it is a small space. The lighting cycle has always been 15 on and 9 off. When they were on the shelf under T8s it was 16 on and 8 off. Oh and the white specs above were just diatamaceous earth that I dusted over the ground and the plants as one of my barriers against pests in the garage.
Just as an aside - the main purpose of plants - at least in their tiny brains - is to go through their life cycle, produce flowers and seeds, etc., to continue their ‘lineage’. Plants that bloom early are normally going through that life cycle quickly, as they feel stressed - either too crowded together, some stressful condition, etc. If they felt stressed, for example, during the time that they weren’t watered or cared for properly, even if you correct that situation, it may have already triggered to ‘flowering cycle’.