Casing questions

[StoneCarver]

I've been doing a lot of reading on casing and casing recipes but I've developed a few questions that I haven't been able to find any answers on.

To add an acid or not. My local water is naturally pH 4.5. Its low enough to dissolve oyster shells. I know; I’ve tried. Do I really need to add an acid, such as vinegar or citric acid, to the casing mix since the water’s pH is already so low? Has anyone ever measured the pH of their casing mix? Is there a desired pH to aim for the casing? If I used citric acid instead of vinegar, how much dry powder citric acid would I use to how much water? I plan to make pint sized quantity of casing mix.

I plan on using honey for the sugar component as it is a reducing sugar. I’ve seen people say a 1:1 ratio of water:sugar is a basic/common ratio. I would like to use honey instead of sugar. However, one basic casing recipe says to use only 1tsp honey per quart of 1:1 water:sugar mix. What if I were to not use any sugar and replaced it all with honey, meaning 1:1 water:honey? Also, honey already has some water in it. Should I account for the water content of the honey? For example, a 2: 3 ratio of water:honey. Or is 1:1 fine?

Suppose I added a casing to the tobacco and it dried out again before I had a chance to smoke it all, would adding more casing be too much, for example, sugar or vinegar? Or should I just rehydrate it with plain water so as to not add to much stuff from the casing mix?

 

[GreenDragon]

The pH of the water you use to case your tobacco is generally not going to have a huge effect on the pH of the tobacco smoke for several reasons: You dry the tobacco before you burn it, the compounds in your water that effect the pH are not very concentrated (indeed, acidic tap water is usually very low in minerals), and they form different compounds once dried out (typically salts). The reason simple & complex hydrocarbons (sugars, vinegar, citric acid, etc.) are used to adjust the pH of the tobacco smoke is that the chemistry employed is not reliant on hydrated salts, but rather the products of their combustion and their subsequent reactions.

I would focus on experimenting with different concentrations of sugars and honey to achieve your desired results instead of the pH of the actual casing blend. I would not worry about trying to compensate for the water content of honey.

As to your last question I would try rehydrating with plain water first. Have fun!

 

[StoneCarver]

Thanks for the response but it didn't really answer my question. So, I'll try to rephrase it. If my water is already acidic (4.5 pH), then why add more acid, whether vinegar or citric acid? What is a desired pH for a basic casing mix? The acidity of my water comes from sulfur compounds. I think I might avoid using my water and use distilled water unless I get more information.

Well, it sounds like you are saying that its ok to go with a 1:1 honey:water mix. I don't want to use any white sugar as I have gallons of honey.

 

[GreenDragon]

If my water is already acidic (4.5 pH), then why add more acid, whether vinegar or citric acid?

The original water pH is insignificant. Caused by inorganic salts - they don't burn. The sugars/acids being added are organic chemicals that do burn. These actually effect the final pH of the smoke, which is what you are trying to manipulate.

What is a desired pH for a basic casing mix?

Doesn't really matter. Just use distilled water from the grocery store and eliminate this variable.

The acidity of my water comes from sulfur compounds.

Ew - Stinky!

I think I might avoid using my water and use distilled water unless I get more information.

Agree

Well, it sounds like you are saying that its ok to go with a 1:1 honey:water mix. I don't want to use any white sugar as I have gallons of honey.

When I make a casing I usually add 1 to 2 teaspoons of additive (sugar / honey / vinegar / CA) per cup of water. Add too much and all you will taste is burnt sugar.