Curing Chamber from the box up My Build

[AmaxB]

When I joined this forum I had no idea I would become involved with building a Curing Chamber. After starting the thread "Idea Curing Box" and exploring function along with input from members here I decided to attempt building one. If you read that thread you will see the how to build one flip flopped around a good bit.


I came away understanding that control of the interior environment of the chamber is a must if a quality finish of the tobacco is desired. It is my desire and why my cost is as high as it is to build it, not to mention I lack knowledge that could indeed reduce the cost of the build.

I feel my box will be safe to operate, but don't really know if it is time will tell. Should you decide to build one the safety and use of it is your choice and responsibility is yours to.

Below are basic elements for the automated control that I chose to use.


Fan / Blower http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Inch-Squirrel-Cage-Blower-Fan-160-CFM-Hydroponic-Grow-Room-Exhaust-Duct-GB160-/270987932581?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1823b3a5
About 100.00

Heat Control with ramp http://www.eurothermcontrollers.com/eurotherm-2416-temperature-controller-programmer/
About 400.00

Humidity control http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-DIN-Humidity-Controller-Relay-Output-/200773644142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebf0aaf6e
About 100.00

Solenoid http://www.drillspot.com/products/1333296/Solenoid_14-C-120A_Solenoid cost 35.68 Ea. x 2 About 70.00

After adding box build cost and cost for duct materials the price tag would work out to be a bit better than 1000.00 but to buy a readymade unit that would do this job would cost thousands if you could find one for home use.
Lucky for me I already have the heat control and can make my own vent gates. There are parts of this build that will be shown as I continue to add to this thread simply because I don't know what I will do yet.

I'll begin with an outline of the box build and add to this until the curing chamber is completed.

This will take maybe 2 weeks to complete I am waiting for some parts to come, to help with the flow of this information it would be good not to comment or ask questions until I finish the build.

 

[AmaxB]

The box is straight forward Here are a few simple drawings of how I built mine, the door will come later.
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The picture of the label is the tile backer board I am using for liner. I will upload more on the build later over the next few days.

 

[deluxestogie]

Wow. $1000. I'm really looking forward to seeing how it turns out. If you can program it for a standard flue-cure run, and everything cooperates, you should have some beautiful bright leaf.

I swallowed hard before investing $60 in my Cozy Can project. The cost was recouped in 3 small batches of flue-cured leaf. It's been serving as a winter time kiln since then, and will be reassigned to flue-curing duties in mid-summer.

Bob

 

[leverhead]

He's got me beat!

 

[dR_wH0]

Very interesting. Looking forward to see it completed!

 

[Knucklehead]

This will take maybe 2 weeks to complete I am waiting for some parts to come, to help with the flow of this information it would be good not to comment or ask questions until I finish the build.

Heads up guys.

 

[Chicken]

i believe i would try to cut down the cost by redenecking it, and trying to make some materials work for other purposes,

instead of having everything on a '' controller'' how about a cheap '' timer'' and regulate best you can when certain items should be on/off,,,,????

i just find it having a $1,000.00 price tag, a little high for what it's going to do,

 

[AmaxB]

I know Chicken it is high, but the heat (+- 2F) can be ramped up & down over a given time period same with humidity (with-in 3%) (no baby sitting). Pictures tell it all here is what I got done today.
The insulation I am using
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I begin with a layer of the foil (tested it to 105C) all sides, top, and, bottom are done the same way.
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Now have added the Fiberglass and held it in with Fiberglass Mesh this is followed by another layer of Foil Insulation.
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Here is a side (the back) first layer of foil.
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Than added the fiberglass insulation and as seen in this picture the second layer of foil insulation.
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In this picture I have attached 2x6" pieces and the wheels. The Bottom and back of the chamber are now finished.
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Here I have cut the hole for the 4" duct stack in the finish plywood piece for the top and the hole for the 4" duct in the interior part of the chamber. Now I'll stand the chamber up and insulate the top after installing the duct stack.
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Before setting the first stack duct piece I have attached strapping to support it and the blower fan.
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What the first piece of the stack duct looks like after it has been attached, notice the gap around it so it is not touching any wood surface.
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[AmaxB]

In this picture I have added fire rated foam insulation to fill the gap, and not shown a 3" piece of 4" duct to attach my blower to.
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This is how the box is looking
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Here is the blower mounted on the stack, I plugged it in and she puts the air out pretty good don't think I'll need another blower at the air return to the chamber.
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As things move along I'll post more, I didd get my other parts today....

 

[Ishi]

Looks like you are going first class.

 

[AmaxB]

Was going to make my vents, but one more search for blast gate vents gave me a site I can get them at for about 5.50 each plus shipping. They have no shopping cart on the site but do have an 800 number to call.
I ordered two 4" gates. Got them here http://www.blastgateco.com/Cast-Aluminum-Full-Blast-Gates.php

 

[AmaxB]

The gates will work out well with the solenoids I'll be using if I put a spring on them to close them after the solenoid has opened the gate.

 

[AmaxB]

Hi Guys!
Got my blast gates and yesterday had time to work on my chamber some more, got all the duct in and was able to test run the air. Would like to say for a chamber of this size and less than 14 LF of duct a 160 CFM fan is plenty maybe to much will know for sure after getting the venting in on the floor. Leverhead had pointed out the best placement for the air inlet vent is before the fan. He is 100% correct I tried it just before the heatbox and could not make it draw air. Bottom line I had to change the location (shows my lack of experience and how thick my head really is). For the heatbox I am using an old mid-sized toaster oven, I removed the glass door and closed it up with sheet metal inside I have 4 Quartz heat emitters and will be using 120V to power them. The glass door I will use as a window for the curing chamber I am adding an oven light, to light it up when I want to see how things are going. Next phase will be wiring every thing up and testing things to be sure it all works.
This first photo shows 3 holes marked with green straws I will use to run wires for the heat, humidity, sensors and the light.
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Inside the chamber you can see a thermal sensor (rated to 150C) and the light socket. I have used a piece of Aluminum Angle fastened to the wall for mounting sensors.
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This is the toaster oven I have set it to see how it will fit the door is gone and the wires you see with the terminal blocks go to heat emitters in side. Also I have cut a hole for the air in duct pipe.
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This next photo shows the sheet metal I have cut to cover the opening left after removing the door. Also seen is a section of duct pipe with tabs cut to fasten it to the sheet metal. This piece of pipe will be on the bottom of the heat box going back to the chamber.
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The duct pipe is attached in this photo. Next I will use sealer and screws to fix the sheet metal to the heatbox (old toaster oven) where the door was.
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In this photo the heatbox is mounted and return duct is done.
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Here you can see the duct pipe for the air in set and fastened.
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Air system is completed.
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Close ups of the intake and exhaust blast gate vents.
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When I have got the controls and wiring done I will show this. What it looks like and how it is wired.

 

[johnlee1933]

Looks great! I'll be interested to hear hao the test run goes.

 

[leverhead]

Damn! It looks like a flue-cure chamber! You done good! Give it a good shakedown, you don't want anything crapping out once you have leaf in it. Next time you do laundry, use it for a drier (hang the wet clothes in it) it will give you a feel for the vents. It won't be the same but close enough to gain some confidence. The amount of work each load of leaf represents make screw ups really painful. Now it's on to growing good leaf to feed it.

PS. I kind of like the toaster oven, I wouldn't have thought of it. Be sure to check the heat elements, you don't want ANY exposed conductors (coils too)! When the humidity is high, they'll short to the nearest point they can! Are you still using the ceramic elements? Put a ground wire on your duct work, I said shucks and darn before I put a ground on mine.

 

[DrBob]

You are off to a very good start. I agree with leverhead You have a lot of time to get the bugs worked out. Drying some laundry is an excellent Idea as you will get to understand how it works before you commit precious tobacco to the chamber.

 

[deluxestogie]

I'm concerned that this beautifully constructed flue-cure chamber won't fit through the door in the picture. When running with a load of green leaf, the chamber will turn that low ceiling room into a dripping Turkish bath. As with a clothes dryer, you may need to duct the exhaust air to the outdoors. Most of the starting weight of the green leaf will come off as water.

Bob

 

[AmaxB]

Morning Guys
All GOOD & GREAT CONCERNS gee had not thought of grounding the duct work is a good point and I will do it Leverhead. Been thinking about putting a few wet beach towels in it to test but won't till I test controls to see that they are working. As for the chamber being moved from the room no it stays there. Have a few Ideas for the venting of wet air but won't tell till I try em out to see if they will work. If I duct air to the outside I think the fan could move it and could put a P Trap with plug in the line for water. Removing the plug and replacing with sponge to allow water to drip so the trap doesn't fill up. Am excited to see the solenoids work the vents to test I'll bypass the controller and power manually. I got lazy so I left the Quartz emitters in the oven (heatbox) and at half power will have 1300 watts available. If a problem comes up I will change to the Ceramic, but am putting a small breaker box in so if a short does come up it will trip a breaker.

 

[LeftyRighty]

nice build - be sure that you post test results - lots of us need to know.
I'd also suggest that the system be on a GFCI protected circuit, as well as all metal parts being grounded.

 

[Knucklehead]

Keep a fire extinguisher handy.