Curing Chamber from the box up My Build

[AmaxB]

This should come out to about 7 pounds Dry weight. (3 shelves loaded)
I am going to make 3 spots like you see in the second photo (shelf hung from ceiling). Than in the future I can load the three shelves and leave them hang until I am ready to put them in the chamber.
It took me about 45 minutes to hang leaf on a shelf.

 

[jekylnz]

I am running three ceramic heat emitters two are 650watts and one is 450watts. I have a spot to add another one but have not needed it so the forth wall of the heat box is empty.

Hey max what are they traditional used for...or from??

 

[AmaxB]

Hey max what are they traditional used for...or from??

I buy them here- http://wecointernational.com/Infrar...aters/Trough-Heaters/FTE-Full-Trough-Element/

but they do sell and ship from Ireland too (that is where they are made. For the UK use the link below.
http://www.ceramicx.com/

 

[AmaxB]

Really this is the better website to look for things - http://www.ceramicx.com/
Than if you were to want to buy and live in the US you could contact the guys at the other link and get what you want.
A note about (heat box):
I for some reason like to make things harder than they need be,,, dropped as a baby I guess
Find something to use as a box and run duct pipe through it, paint it black on the outside. Place emitters to face the duct pipe and 4 to 6 inches away from it. Being they are Infrared your duct pipe will get hot fast heating the air as it passes. This would make it easy to control humidity loss due to leakage. Because the only thing that to seal against humidity loss would be the duct pipe.
Also emitters can be gotten with a built in thermal couple so once the emitter it's self reached temperature power could be shut off to it automatically via PID. Heat box would never than go beyond set temperature.

 

[jekylnz]

Really this is the better website to look for things - http://www.ceramicx.com/
Than if you were to want to buy and live in the US you could contact the guys at the other link and get what you want.
A note about (heat box):
I for some reason like to make things harder than they need be,,, dropped as a baby I guess
Find something to use as a box and run duct pipe through it, paint it black on the outside. Place emitters to face the duct pipe and 4 to 6 inches away from it. Being they are Infrared your duct pipe will get hot fast heating the air as it passes. This would make it easy to control humidity loss due to leakage. Because the only thing that to seal against humidity loss would be the duct pipe.
Also emitters can be gotten with a built in thermal couple so once the emitter it's self reached temperature power could be shut off to it automatically via PID. Heat box would never than go beyond set temperature.

Do you need isolating fans to prevent hot or cold spots in chamber? Or I suppose the heat going in would mix enough?

 

[AmaxB]

Do you need isolating fans to prevent hot or cold spots in chamber? Or I suppose the heat going in would mix enough?

Yes you want air flow

 

[Knucklehead]

Do you need isolating fans to prevent hot or cold spots in chamber? Or I suppose the heat going in would mix enough?

Are you asking about separate fans, such as the computer fans inside kilns? I know most of the flue cure guys are forcing the heated air into the kiln with blowers, then recirculating it with a duct system. In the bottom, through the leaves and out the top, then back to the heater. I also think there is a separate vent to the outside if needed. As far as I know there are no circulating fans inside the chambers, just one direction heated air flow. Is this right Amax?

 

[DGBAMA]

Mine has an internal chimney that moves air from the top of the chamber to the bottom. More or less enhancing the natural convection effect of heat rising to the top. It really helped even out the spots that were drying too fast.

no heat, just top to bottom circulation.

 

[Knucklehead]

Mine has an internal chimney that moves air from the top of the chamber to the bottom. More or less enhancing the natural convection effect of heat rising to the top. It really helped even out the spots that were drying too fast.

no heat, just top to bottom circulation.

Right but you're still moving hot air from the top to the bottom which rises back through the leaves in one direction. The computer fans in the kilns I've seen seem to just randomly blow the air around without a direction device like your chimney. Maybe I misread Todd's question.

 

[AmaxB]

Yes that is right see here http://wholeleaftobaccollc.com/foru...eded-What-to-use&p=55370&viewfull=1#post55370

 

[workhorse_01]

Amax, You've stopped venting yours except for when you open the door correct?

 

[AmaxB]

Amax, You've stopped venting yours except for when you open the door correct?

Workhorse- yes - no venting while yellowing and 1st part wilting - I do not open the door.

 

[workhorse_01]

I put no vents on mine. The only venting it gets is if I open the door to adjust moisture. I got this down to 76 hours for dried stems, and the leaf smells so sweet it will almost make you sick.

Workhorse- yes - no venting while yellowing and 1st part wilting - I do not open the door.

 

[jekylnz]

I put no vents on mine. The only venting it gets is if I open the door to adjust moisture. I got this down to 76 hours for dried stems, and the leaf smells so sweet it will almost make you sick.

Yeah that covers my question. .thanks guys..

How do they usually control the humidity during flu curing in old shed curing back in the day..like a sauna? ? Or just venting and closing up???

 

[DGBAMA]

My current run was not even yellowed good at 76 hrs.

 

[Fisherman]

WoW!

What you did different Mr DG?

 

[DGBAMA]

WoW!

What you did different Mr DG?

Suspect lots of immature leaf has a lot to do with it. It its the remains of the garden/flood patch. Weather dried out and bugs took over. Sort of a salvage mission. Spend DAYS fighting the pests only to wind up with ugly bacca or cut it and see what I could save.

I choose to takewhat i could and keep my focus on the other two patches that are doing well instead of giving up time onthe good ones to try to save the ugly.I

 

[workhorse_01]

My flooded patch, I whole stalked. The immature leaves are terrible to cure.

Suspect lots of immature leaf has a lot to do with it. It its the remains of the garden/flood patch. Weather dried out and bugs took over. Sort of a salvage mission. Spend DAYS fighting the pests only to wind up with ugly bacca or cut it and see what I could save.

I choose to takewhat i could and keep my focus on the other two patches that are doing well instead of giving up time onthe good ones to try to save the ugly.I

 

[AmaxB]

Workhorse- yes - no venting while yellowing and 1st part wilting - I do not open the door.

I need to correct this venting should begin if leaves start to become wet......

 

[AmaxB]

I have been giving tons of thought to my chamber it works yes, but can be improved.
Planned for next cure, I am going to use PVC pipe as spacers to keep leaves off the walls with a gap between the wall and spacers. This should allow for a more over all heating of the chamber and when yellowing help air flow.
This winter I will possibly move heat source to inside (convection) the outside ducts will remain to provide fresh air and moisture venting only.