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drying/curing tobacco leaves @chriscap

chriscap

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Hi all newbie here i am currently growing Virginia gold and vesta 64 (not sure what vesta 64 is) i have read many posts on here and have found a lot of valuable information from you guys. Ok so here we go i am in the UK east coast literally 300 yards from north sea i have grown tobacco before no problem but drying/curing was impossible due to humidity levels all over the place so it was a fail. i obviously don't want this to happen again so i am wondering if i can make a curing chamber like
Deluxestogie's Endoskeletal Wood Tobacco Kiln / Flue-cure chamber
could i cure it in that instead of hanging it up where i have no control of heat or humidity. if so what would the temperature and humidity would it need to be at and for how long i really don't want to hang it in my garage and fail again
Many thanks and hope you can help me on this amazing site.
 

Old Gasman

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Hello from another almost East Coast member. I'm a relative newbie but if it's any help I found that I can colour cure the leaves just by hanging them in my garage. If the day was very hot and dry (a rarity here I know) I hung a few wet towels between the leaves to raise the humidity. Alternatively you can cut the whole plant down and hang it upside down.
 

deluxestogie

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With a relatively small crop, you can cure it in a constructed chamber. Unlike my kiln, it would need a vent, though just cracking the door a bit (by trial and error) would suffice for that. The temp for color-curing is in the range of 70-85°F, with the relative humidity averaging around 70%. The duration is entirely dependent on the leaf, and at what stage of maturity you harvest it. The more mature (even to the ripe stage), the easier and more quickly it will color-cure. The leaf would need to be strung in such a fashion that there is space between leaves, to allow the internal ventilation fan to circulate air. If you were to stack the leaf in there, you would need to inspect it and reshuffle the leaf stack daily, to avoid mold or rotting.

Vesta 64 is a bright (flue-cure Virginia) variety.

Bob
 

chriscap

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With a relatively small crop, you can cure it in a constructed chamber. Unlike my kiln, it would need a vent, though just cracking the door a bit (by trial and error) would suffice for that. The temp for color-curing is in the range of 70-85°F, with the relative humidity averaging around 70%. The duration is entirely dependent on the leaf, and at what stage of maturity you harvest it. The more mature (even to the ripe stage), the easier and more quickly it will color-cure. The leaf would need to be strung in such a fashion that there is space between leaves, to allow the internal ventilation fan to circulate air. If you were to stack the leaf in there, you would need to inspect it and reshuffle the leaf stack daily, to avoid mold or rotting.

Vesta 64 is a bright (flue-cure Virginia) variety.

Bob
Thank you very much for your answer exactly what i needed to know
 

GonzoAcres

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Question on flue curing, and curing in general, Ive read the flue curing process over and over and think i'm begining to understand the fundamentals of it and how they translate to smaller scale situations, and I've gotten fairly good at the yellowing process via wrapping leaves in towels until they are yellow through and through other than midrib and even sometimes have gotten them to yellow completely.

So its my understanding that in the flue curing process the yellowing part of schedule is mostly independent from the very strict confines of the wilting and drying portion of the schedule. Am I somewhat correct in that suggestion? If so, my next question is ( and sorry, I apologize and understand that the easy and obvious answer to this is "just follow the G** D*mn instructions" ) If I take Virginia leaf that has been completely yellowed, via the towel wrapping method (I have tried yellowing in the temp/humidity controlled upright commercial single door fridge I have with poor success, not sure why exactly), once the leaves have yellowed can I then put them into the temp/humidity controlled chamber and hope to start the flue curing schedule from the beginning of the wilting stage through to stem drying?

and while I understand this would be much more work and require much more attending to, is it possible to set that beautiful yellow color by taking yellowed leave and placing it in a heated environment, like a oven, on VERY LOW or even an oven that's been heated and allowed to cool to the 105 starting point of wilting? and then short bursts of turning oven on and back off while monitoring the temperature to achieve the increases needed to maintain the schedule through stem drying? or is it simply to finicky and likely to result in browning trying to micromanage it this way?


On a seperate note

Also I came across this the other day, which is a public opinion axe job on Tobacco for sure enough misleading claims about tobacco to make you really angry, but its the first video showing the modern bulk barns used for yellowing, and just how hap-hazardly the tobacco is heaped into the racks for yellowing, which is super comforting to a newbie that the neurotic attention to care in handling the leaves isn't totally necessary .
View: https://youtu.be/gdV_1u-TodY


The discussion about "Whats in a cigarette" made me angry, and the claim that a cigarette only contains about 30% tobacco, but then goes on to explain that the other 70% is mostly a paper product made from tobacco scraps, and recovered tobacco from the packing lines, and returned packs of cigarettes that had gone beyond their sell-by date.... even if "Recon Tobacco" makes up 70% of a cigarette, suggesting that 70% isnt still comprised of Tobacco is disingenuous and purely intentionally negative misrepresentation intended to scare people aware...
 

deluxestogie

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start the flue curing schedule from the beginning of the wilting stage through to stem drying?
That should work. The purpose of yellowing within the flue-curing chamber at the specified temperature is to accomplish the yellowing process as rapidly as possible, without damaging the leaf.

The oven sounds like a certain path to failure.

Bob
 

GonzoAcres

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That should work. The purpose of yellowing within the flue-curing chamber at the specified temperature is to accomplish the yellowing process as rapidly as possible, without damaging the leaf.

The oven sounds like a certain path to failure.

Bob
So basically my set up is a single door commercial pepsi cooler, i had a bunch of long corded remote 110V thermostats that i bought in a large lot of auction stuff from a event tent rental company, they were used to run the large forced air circus tent heaters for weddings etc, nothing special just a nice heavyduty thermostat that goes to 110F in a well constructed waterproof enclosure with one long cord that has a plug that another appliance can be plugged into immediately behind the thermostat plug if that makes sense, so I have that controlling 2 quartz heating elements that are still in their toaster oven enclosure but have just been wired to a 110v male plug, rather than to their own thermostat and chinsy timer, and a commercial duty HVAC compressor fan from the heat exchange on a behind bar refrigeration unit, which is set up to blow through the shell of the toaster oven to move the hot air while keeping flamable debris from coming in contact with the elements, atleast for very long... after a couple runs loading it with completely yellowed leaves hoping to dry them down and set that golden yellow color, which it does quite well, except 110 isnt nearly hot enough to even fake an effort at stem drying, so trip to hardwar store for a water heater thermostat to take place of tent thermostat, which helps alot. So far this is my best effort which was a very very liberal application of something somewhat similar to the temp schedule for flue curing, except in much longer time blocks because i don't have time to sit and change temps every couple hours, until I design some sort of raspberry pi or arduino mini computer thermostat and humidity controller than will follow a preset schedule increasing temperature and either opening vent or activating humidifier of some sort as needed....

It definitely only took one season to understand why VA, NC, GA, AND KY are the tobacco regions, and CO is not... it grows great here, but holy hell is it alot of work after ya grow it without any natural humidity to help ya along
 

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