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G’s grow log 2023

Kiwisaffer

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Most of these gnats are now dead and just caught up in the hairs on the leaves. Only the odd winged aphid here and there. Hope it stays that way. Slugs and snails prefer my wife’s vegetable’s more than the tobacco at this point, so only real damage to leaves at this point is rubbing and wind, from what I can see.
 

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Kiwisaffer

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Things are quite windy here today. Plants getting pushed around a bit.

Also planted out a few more seedlings from the trays in a few open spots in the garden. Decorative!!!
 

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Kiwisaffer

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I have just been pondering (again) in the last couple of weeks whether I have started things too early in the season. Although we are basically passed any major frosts events our temps could still be warmer later in the summer. We are around 6-10degC in the evenings and 15-21degC during the day. Whereas in Jan/Feb/March we should consistently see 12-18degC in the evenings and high 20-30degC during the day (with some days into the 30’s).

It could be worth seeing if these leaves are able to mature and come off end of Dec/early Jan and let a sucker crop go, or get another round of seedlings ready and have another go and see how much better things grow later on in the summer?
Anyone have any thoughts? Or Am I over thinking it?
 

Kiwisaffer

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So it looks like the buds are starting to show on the criollo98 but the pant is not that tall. I’m a little confused, thought the plant would be a bit taller before I’d see the buds. But this might be a function of this being my first year, starting the seedlings too early, not enough sun now that they have been transplanted and and and etc… I reckon it’s only about 0.5m tall.

Also not sure if my very early transplanted burley is lacking some nutrients or is maturing on the bottom leaves as it is looking very yellow compared to the plants around it. The top leaves are darker green however. I used a different compost for the plants in the bottom of the picture than for the rest. Should the leaves be picked or should fertilize some more?
 

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Kiwisaffer

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On closer inspection my new seedlings are quite yellow in the new leaves and a few are curling as well. Got a bit of rain today.
 

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Kiwisaffer

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The humidity is quite high at the moment. It’s been raining for the last 2 days as well. Soil is well draining.

Can’t see any insects on the underside of the leaves, maybe there were but not anymore, so don’t think it’s insect damage. Unless it’s some type of disease whitefly brought in?

Considering the yellowing on the other new leaves in the pictures is this not some sort of nutrient deficiency? I was thinking of putting on some epsom salts diluted in water?

It’s interesting how it is only affecting the new growth leaves and not the existing leaves. It is not pulling the nitrogen from the older leaves to support the growth in the new leaves?
 

Knucklehead

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Here is a link to some nutrient deficiencies but I don't think the upward cupping indictes a nutrient problem. The yellowing may indicate a shortage of nutients. How are you fertilizing and how often? A calcium deficiency or pH imbalance usually shows downward cupping of the leaves as a symptom, rather than upward cupping. If no one has sprayed a chemical nearby I would suspect some type of stress but that's just a whodunnit guess.

 

Kiwisaffer

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At this point it only looks to be the Izmir Ozbas that is curling upwards.
All the rest are showing that yellowing of the new leaves.
I’m not doing any fertilizing at present. The guy I bought the potting mix from said that he’d put in some slow release fertilizer. Didn’t think additional fertilizing would be necessary until the plants got a bit more mature or showing signs which I think they are doing now (once slow release fert had been used up in the mix). No chemicals have been sprayed nearby either.

I was thinking to either use some epsom salts and/or tomato type fertilizers to get some nutrients back in???


I’m in unchartered territory myself so not sure the next move to make. Plants have been growing well up to this point
 

deluxestogie

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The tomato fertilizer listing does not show the ingredients, but just the anions (N, P, K). If the K is from potassium chloride (or "muriate" of potassium), then using it will diminish the combustion quality of the finished leaf. If you can't find anything else, then I would just go with the tomato fertilizer, and see how it turns out.

Bob
 

Kiwisaffer

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What should the K make up be?
I can take a look around at a few shops and see what is written on the back of the bag to make sure not to reduce combustibility. I’ve gone out of my way to remove the chlorine from my supply water for the plants for that same reason so would be nice to follow along that same path.

Also, when would one use epsom salts mixed up in the irrigation water?

Thanks all for helping answer my questions
 

Kiwisaffer

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Just picked up and reading through the key forum threads around looking for chloride free fertilizers…
Does one use Epsom salts in conjunction with the other fertilizers?
 

Knucklehead

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I do
Just picked up and reading through the key forum threads around looking for chloride free fertilizers…
Does one use Epsom salts in conjunction with the other fertilizers?
I use epsom salts occasionally just because. It won't hurt and if there is a magnesium deficiency it will inhibit the uptake of the other nutrients. Its almost like a clog in your nutrient supply. I use a table spoon per gallon when I use it. If the plants are yellowing and I scratch my head because I thought I had fertilized I will give them a dose of epsom salts. Usually see greening in 2-3 days.
 

johnny108

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I use water soluble “triple-20” fertilizer, and use epsom salts at 1/4 strength of the fertilizer: 1 tsp fertilizer + 1/4tsp Epsom salts….
 

deluxestogie

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The ratio of Nitrogen : Phosphorus : Potassium (N-P-K) doesn't matter a whole lot for home tobacco growing. Agricultural Extension Services in tobacco growing states issue recommendations that vary from one growing region to another, and vary from one tobacco variety to another within a growing region. That is important with regard to minimizing the grower's cost as well as run-off from extensive acreage of tobacco. Those considerations are not particularly meaningful for a small home grow.

Whether a fertilizer is 0.5-0.5-0.5 or 1-1-1 or 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 determines only how much of that preparation is to be applied to a given growing plot. I regularly use a 10-10-10 preparation of low-chloride vegetable fertilizer near transplant time (at the application rate indicated for tomatoes), and never add more fertilizer later in the growing season, since late nitrogen application delays maturation of the tobacco leaf. The only exception I make is if I encounter a flooding rain storm within a week or two of my fertilizer application, in which case I re-apply fertilizer at half the initial rate.

I should note that my tobacco growing is in the dirt, outdoors. In a different growing environment (e.g. hydroponic, grow bags, tiny pots, drip-irrigated, etc.), the requirements can be quite different.

Bob
 
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