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Lieberman question

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Knucklehead

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So, not like a coaster brake on a Schwinn, but more like a caliper brake against the steel wheel rim in a rain storm?

Bob
Sort of. The harder I push the more the fabric wants to grip the rod. I have to turn the rod under the fabric as I push. I guess more like a fan belt when the fan pulley doesn’t turn freely and I’m the crank pulley.
 

Knucklehead

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These two photos show the loaded doll/bunch. The belt comes over the roller and then back under the roller. If I just pull back on the roller the forces cancel each other and the rod just locks up and wont move. It feels like all the tension is on the top part of the belt at the roller and goes back to the brass bar and screws clamping the end of the belt. By simply unrolling the rod as it passes under the “top” belt it unlocks and rolls forward. I‘m not actually pulling on the rod so much as simply unrolling it under the “top” belt.

0E9CB836-15FC-4190-B44A-629B138EF1EF.jpeg
0C4626EB-8A24-4F22-82EF-55D57D87D663.jpeg

These show belt adjustment. Simple but effective. No slippage.

0D530A4D-4DAC-4D42-9A9A-F4522343E3CB.jpegB6290A5B-DE7A-4BD9-BABF-57A09A007899.jpeg

Side shot. I usually just run the doll to make sure it’s full enough but not too tight, then back it up and bind it.

95C8C215-01F0-470B-8209-4E5BC2A62187.jpeg
 

jclif43

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These two photos show the loaded doll/bunch. The belt comes over the roller and then back under the roller. If I just pull back on the roller the forces cancel each other and the rod just locks up and wont move. It feels like all the tension is on the top part of the belt at the roller and goes back to the brass bar and screws clamping the end of the belt. By simply unrolling the rod as it passes under the “top” belt it unlocks and rolls forward. I‘m not actually pulling on the rod so much as simply unrolling it under the “top” belt.

View attachment 34540
View attachment 34541

These show belt adjustment. Simple but effective. No slippage.

View attachment 34542View attachment 34543

Side shot. I usually just run the doll to make sure it’s full enough but not too tight, then back it up and bind it.

View attachment 34544
I just received this exact roller about a week ago. Anxious to try it out. Are you rolling a specific size? Interested to see what the range will be from smallest to largest.
 

Knucklehead

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I just received this exact roller about a week ago. Anxious to try it out. Are you rolling a specific size? Interested to see what the range will be from smallest to largest.

If I remember correctly the son told me the range was ~ low 30’s to ~50. I rolled some 52. I haven’t tested to see how small I could go. I have a large plastic blunt roller for the small ones.

Juicy Jays 4-3/4”
 

Kikiri

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yn2UjC0.jpg

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wao that machine looks good
 

Yultanman

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@MarcL i decided to get the bed made heavier duty at my friends shop with a roller.
I was wondering if you could give me a few measurements?
size of the square base inside
Length of the bed portion before the drop offs
Center to center of the arm from pivot to roller

i figure i may as well copy a working model rather than guess. Or at least try to be close.
Thanks so much for all your help
 

MarcL

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These two photos show the loaded doll/bunch. The belt comes over the roller and then back under the roller. If I just pull back on the roller the forces cancel each other and the rod just locks up and wont move. It feels like all the tension is on the top part of the belt at the roller and goes back to the brass bar and screws clamping the end of the belt. By simply unrolling the rod as it passes under the “top” belt it unlocks and rolls forward. I‘m not actually pulling on the rod so much as simply unrolling it under the “top” belt.
Mine has the same bed size but without the brass mechanism. Mine is not hard to push as long as you are rolling it. Trying to push the rod forward without turning it is extremely hard because the rod is gripped by the friction created by the fabric, but if I turn it as it is pushed forward it is fairly easy because it overcomes that friction. Just a little bit of rolling action makes all the difference. Basically you are working with the fabric rather than working against it.

I should also note that mine is new and not broken in. It’s possible the rod may just slide along without a rolling motion once the fabric is broken in. Time will tell. But currently, a slight roll and it glides, no roll - dead stop.
Right. Having turn the handles, the rod and doll must rotate. Assisting the mat to run over them by turning the handles. The optimum move seems more turn then pull. My design doesn't have that advantage. Though, I can assist a little with an open hand to the mat.
@MarcL i decided to get the bed made heavier duty at my friends shop with a roller.
I was wondering if you could give me a few measurements?
size of the square base inside
Length of the bed portion before the drop offs
Center to center of the arm from pivot to roller

i figure i may as well copy a working model rather than guess. Or at least try to be close.
Thanks so much for all your help
Nice. I can measure for you. Have you seen these threads?

I notice the bed design having a varied gap to the rod. I see it as gradually closing the ring gauge.
When the RG is larger then the rods O/D, the exiting portion of the mat compresses the bunch. I don't see much of a matter to this but, it speaks to the OP query of "choosing a diameter for the rolling rod".

Let me measure.
 

MarcL

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size of the square base inside > From the top. 8" in, 10" out by 10" in, 13 1/4" out.

8znT0E4.jpg


From the bottom you see the hole needed to be cut in the table. 8 1/4" by 11 1/2"

FUHkT2i.jpg


Length of the bed portion before the drop offs > The rolling surface is 6" square.

Center to center of the arm from pivot to roller > 9"

kalgh9p.jpg
 

MarcL

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You can see from the bottom card board covered in tape a feeding troth in place of what I have seen looking like a adjustible cast iron one. The other side (drop box) is fixed.

oXjFKlN.jpg
 
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