Whole Leaf Tobacco

my first crop so far: jason30809

jason30809

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Bob, its either Virginia Gold or SS Black Mammoth. I did a bad job keeping track of which one were which.
 

deluxestogie

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I appreciate the kind words. Fortunately for all of us, many of our small decisions about our crops don't make a huge difference in the outcome. Some do though.

Bob
 

Valahnuk

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I'm just Borrowing this thread.

I've also got some problems with white mold on some of my leaves that was hung too close together.

But I've read here in a thread that you can treat the mold-infested area with hydrogen peroxide.

So I soaked a piece of cloth with 3% hydrogen peroxide and rubbed the affected areas til the mold was gone.

Is that a good method or should I spray the hydrogen peroxide directly on the affected areas on the leaves?
 

jason30809

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I had the same mold problem develop on some of my earlier harvested leaves. Humidity was about the same as yours so I moved from outside under a gazebo to the garage. Problem solved
 

Buakaw

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I have a few leaves in a closed cardbox to yellow them, i take them out everyday and rearrange them. However some leaves created mold. Some of them were a bit wet, is that the cause?
 

Knucklehead

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I have a few leaves in a closed cardbox to yellow them, i take them out everyday and rearrange them. However some leaves created mold. Some of them were a bit wet, is that the cause?
When humidity is too low for air curing outside without the leaf drying green, curing the leaf in a box can help raise the humidity sufficiently within the confined space to successfully yellow the leaf without drying green. If the humidity is high enough to successfully yellow the leaf by simply air curing outside, then yellowing in a box can create undesirable results by creating an environment conducive to mold. I see yellowing in a box as one of the tools in the curing toolbox, but can cause problems if used in the wrong conditions. I live in an area that can see big humidity swings. I have to monitor the conditions with a hygrometer and thermometer and either move the leaf to better conditions or manipulate the conditions to keep the leaf within that curing “sweet spot”. I used the box one season during a severe drought when the humidity was really low, but other seasons the box would have assuredly created mold problems for me.
 

plantdude

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Bob had mentioned in another post the carcinogenic mycotoxins producesd by mold are not supposed to be dangerous when smoked, but that moldy tobacco should be avoided for cigar wrappers or chewing tobacco. If I get a little white fuzz or a small spot I've been dabbing a little hydrogen peroxide on the affected area. If it very extensive though, darker colored mold, or smells funny I've been tossing it. Not worth the risk in my mind. Plus I don't want that much mold present in my storage bags ready to take off if my storage conditions temporarily get a little off. Just my thoughts, but I've not had a lot of experience storing leaf for any length of time.
 

jason30809

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First time grower here and I have finally made it close to the finish line. My burly was self explanatory when ready but this Virginia gold or black mammoth (not sure which) looks very different. Any advise would be appreciated. Also when ripe should I stalk harvest or prime?

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Knucklehead

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Has anyone seen this before? mold maybe or could it be chlorophyll?View attachment 33374View attachment 33375View attachment 33376View attachment 33377
That doesn’t look like mold to me. I think it will blend in as it cures.

First time grower here and I have finally made it close to the finish line. My burly was self explanatory when ready but this Virginia gold or black mammoth (not sure which) looks very different. Any advise would be appreciated. Also when ripe should I stalk harvest or prime?

View attachment 33378View attachment 33379View attachment 33380View attachment 33381View attachment 33382View attachment 33383View attachment 33384
Those look ready. I always prime each leaf but some members prefer to stalk cure.
 
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