The main thing the shed would be used for in the first stages would be air curing.I am not worried about the freezer panels or the shed itself. I am more worried about whatever device you will be using as a humidifier and heater. Fortunately, towards the tail end (when it is nearing 74 degrees C) of the flue-curing process, the humidity aspect is mostly unimportant, but even for kilning, a typical humidifier is probably not geared for operating at even 50 degrees C (the approximate minimum temperature needed to prevent mold).
The same applies to your heater if it will be in the kiln/shed. If it is "outside" blowing heat in, then perhaps it may fare better.
Point is, typical humidifiers and heaters are not meant to be stored or even operating at 30+ temperature at 60+% humidity, and 30 is the low end of what temperature is required in kilning/flue-curing (you're set for air-curing, but all that effort is better suited to finding a way to flue-cure)
(although the main thing I may be missing is New Zealand is probably already humid, so maintaining required humidity levels may not be as difficult)
I was heating the 3x3x4' kiln once again with lightbulbs and a fan. 75W maybe, I can't remember. And the tobacco was in a couple sealed homebrewing buckets inside the kiln. Moisture couldn't escape the buckets so there was no need for a humidifier.The buckets just spawned a whole new batch of questions I want to ask, but I'll save them for another day (it's late)
How much tobacco do you grow per year?After many hours of google searching there isn't much info on purpose built small scale tobacco drying sheds. I am searching because I intend during the coming winter months (I live in New Zealand) to build a shed just for drying and curing tobacco.
I understand that they are two different things but I want a space to do both so a shed for drying that also has a kiln built inside it.
Does anyone have a shed like this or any modifications they think would be great to integrate into the build?
I already know I want it to be well insulated (either freezer panels or wood with fiber insulation) I will control the incoming air and temperature with a 12v diesel heater (used for caravans) I will also control the humidity with a humidifier. Thoughts?
200+ plants but this year has been significantly less due to moving to a new property.How much tobacco do you grow per year?
What are the outside temps/humidity as curing begins and ends?
What are the temps/humidity during storage time after cured? Do you hope to continue hanging the cured leaf in the rafters after cure or will you store in containers and manipulate the environment in the containers to avoid mold?
If you plan to store in containers, will the shed have a use during off times? Will it need a floor?
Yeah, I see where you are coming from and where you are trying to go now.200+ plants but this year has been significantly less due to moving to a new property.
So last week was 25c to 30c and 30rh to 40rh
This was drying alot of my leaves green.
And then overnight It changed to 10c to 15c and 80+rh so it's so hard having to move the tobacco from the shed inside or to the greenhouse retaining moisture so it doesn't dry green and then trying to reduce moisture so it doesn't mold.
I know it sounds overboard building a shed just for tobacco but I'm paying 36usd for 1oz of tobacco.
So even if I spend a few thousand dollars I will spend that in a year buying tobacco.
I normally grow Virginia Gold as its common blend they grow here but this year I have triedYeah, I see where you are coming from and where you are trying to go now.
What varieties of tobacco are you growing?
Today I have been monitoring the shed I am currently using and it was 85rh and an hour later it was 55rh so the fluctuations are huge at the moment. I have tried opening doors and it helps to a certain extent but I would be much more comfortable with a room that could do that automatically.If you can anticipate those humidity swings, you can open and close the shed doors. I would close my doors before a rain when the humidity would shoot up and it would trap the low humidity inside until the rain passed. Or I could open the door while the humidity was low during the daytime and close it at night when the humidity would rise to prevent mold or rot or vice versa depending on what I needed to trap inside with the leaf. I‘m not familiar with your climate so is that something you could work with or are you talking about a need to humidify and dehumidify rather rapidly?