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Scaffolds

tobaccotwist

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I am raising a small crop of an acre in Kentucky (KT215LC burley) this year to make a little extra money. I did some a couple years ago and had a barn, but it was very old (in good condition though tier rail wise) and was unfortunately damaged in a windstorm and pulled down. I can definitely get a barn but I wonder if anybody can tell me two things 1) will it cure correctly in a barn that is not full? (I read a forum thread where somebody said it might not, but on the other hand people on here are mostly curing in their garages and sheds so I think it would) 2) what is your experience with scaffolds and tin roofs or black plastic?

I have heard that the curing structures can be better (comes into case more often, better air movement) or worse (more exposure to things like splashing rain, more management like mowing, takes up space, plastic or tin is expensive,etc), but I'm leaning towards building one out of old logs because that way I'd only have to buy tin or plastic to save on labor because its very difficult and kind of dangerous to hang tobacco by yourself in a barn. But I could hang it on rails in the field without any help, or even if I got help, I wouldn't have the liability of someone falling out of the barn which is part of the challenge of getting a barn. Between my house and the field, 3 miles-ish I pass probably 30 tobacco barns but people either use them and have it full of stuff, or its been neglected since most people quit raising it here 20 years ago and either they're not worth using or too dangerous to use/the owner doesn't want the liability.

Funny thing is I know plenty of tobacco farmers, but they don't have always have answers to problems like this because they're growing large crops and running out of barns to hang in haha, hence practices like stripping the first barn hung in out and 'doubling up'.

Like I said though I saw two older forum threads where one guy from NC said he wished every stick he'd ever hung was on a scaffold and made the statement it might not cure right in an empty barn, and another where @BigBonner, who I know is a farmer here in Kentucky said he got poor quality with scaffolding.
 

deluxestogie

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The problem with a partly filled tobacco barn is that the humidity falls too rapidly during the day. If you plant an entire acre, then you can expect 6,000 to 8,000 plants. For hanging stalk-cut burley, you will have to plan on about ½-square foot of space (single tier) for each plant. They start off requiring more, unless wilted in the field first. If we use 6,000 plants as a working number, then that comes to 3000 square feet (single tier). That's a 55' x 55' structure as a single tier.

It will require shade from the sun, as well as protection from blowing rain, while allowing for adequate ventilation. If you use a single tier built above soil or grass, then moisture from the ground will help in preventing flash drying. A tin roof will heat (lower the humidity) during the day, and cool (higher humidity) at night.

You might consider a skeletal structure with a tin roof, and well-attached, heavy plastic walls, at least some of which can be manipulated to increase (night) or decrease (day) ventilation.

Bob
 

tobaccotwist

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Kentucky
The problem with a partly filled tobacco barn is that the humidity falls too rapidly during the day. If you plant an entire acre, then you can expect 6,000 to 8,000 plants. For hanging stalk-cut burley, you will have to plan on about ½-square foot of space (single tier) for each plant. They start off requiring more, unless wilted in the field first. If we use 6,000 plants as a working number, then that comes to 3000 square feet (single tier). That's a 55' x 55' structure as a single tier.

It will require shade from the sun, as well as protection from blowing rain, while allowing for adequate ventilation. If you use a single tier built above soil or grass, then moisture from the ground will help in preventing flash drying. A tin roof will heat (lower the humidity) during the day, and cool (higher humidity) at night.

You might consider a skeletal structure with a tin roof, and well-attached, heavy plastic walls, at least some of which can be manipulated to increase (night) or decrease (day) ventilation.

Bob
Yes I was guessing the humidity fall to be the cause of the sentiment against partially filled barns. An acre is usually 1200 to 1500 sticks, which I think is about 75 rails. I wonder if I could save some money on plastic and tin and opt for a barn (I think I can get one for free or pretty cheap, cheaper than plastic) and then combat the humidity drop by removing the rails directly behind the last column hung and running plastic all the way down the poles, hence saving plastic area. I'd have to monitor to make sure humidity wasn't too high, but I think it would be fine if I opened the vents as it got higher. The ones @Knucklehead has pictured are what I have in mind, but I've heard of mixed results, hence my concern. The UK articles I have read say its good, but some people growers say its a mess. That and the increased chance of the plastic blowing off, but a barn can always come down too. I notice alot of people hang it in sheds and garages for home use but my guess is without some artificially induced humidity they struggle to get a good cure as well because those structures are air tight.

Thanks for the advice!
 

deluxestogie

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My old oak board shed works so well, because of the gaps between the boards.

Garden20230719_7157_emptyShed_600.jpg


That's daylight shining through. But the humidity issue is also dependent on the micro-climate where the barn, shed, etc. stands.

Bob
 

tobaccotwist

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My old oak board shed works so well, because of the gaps between the boards.

Garden20230719_7157_emptyShed_600.jpg


That's daylight shining through. But the humidity issue is also dependent on the micro-climate where the barn, shed, etc. stands.

Bob
I would expect it to work well in there, thats very similar to a barn, just smaller. I was talking more about people curing in metal sheds or the sheds you can buy at Lowe's, etc. In western KY they have metal barns without gaps but thats for fire curing. I know some folks say barns on creeks do the best because of the mist coming up everyday, but all the ones I know of are up on top of hills, which is how UK recommends barn placement (more airflow, good for a full barn which is a very humid jungle of ammonia early on but is not great for a partially filled one it seems).

I think I'll look more into getting a barn, hanging it all real high(most of them hang 5 to 10 acres so I should have space) and 'plasticing' it down to trap humidity. With the climate it might turn out fine hung regularly or it might not, but I just don't want to risk losing what would have been a successful crop to a bad cure. I can always take the plastic down if it starts to get too humid in there. To really kick up the humidity I could spray water on the ground under the tobacco, put plastic up and open the vents to lower it down a bit. Good thing is I have until August or September to ponder on these options and probably work myself into a fit a few times over.
 
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