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Seedling fertilizer experiment

johnny108

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These seedlings were started in my standard mix- WruckMix with the peat moss mixed 50/50 with a potting soil.
They immediately started yellowing and I suspected overwatering. But removing the water didn’t help.
Since these are experiments for a window sill winter grow, they weren’t critical, so I decided to see if I could push them with full strength fertilizer.
The first picture is how they appeared at the start. (Aug 27)
The second picture (today: Sept.4), the larger row of 3 seedlings were given 5ml each of full strength triple-20 with a 1/4tsp Epsom salts per gallon after the picture was taken. (The black lines on the tray were the mark for the heavy fertilized seedlings- it was just dropped in on top of the soil with a syringe.)
Now the full tray is getting full strength, rather than the 1/10 strength I normally use.IMG_0741.jpegIMG_0852.jpeg
 

johnny108

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These seedlings will be moved to a semi-soilless mix:
10 volumes coconut coir (a brick hydrated with full strength triple-20 fertilizer, plus a 1/4 teaspoon of Epsom salts)
5 volumes perlite
5 volumes vermiculite
5 volumes purchased potting soil.

I have done hydroponic experiments with
Tobacco plants, but curing is a bit tricky.
(Success with Xanthi, Failure with a European “Kentucky” strain)
I’m hoping to get an Aztec Rustica plant into a “bubbler bucket” system I made, but I’m still waiting on roots to show through the net cup, before I put it in the bucket.
 

johnny108

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I am now a firm believer in giving full strength nutrients to younger seedlings. This is the tray today: the 3 empty slots were the early fertilized plants, which had to be transplanted out, because they were already overcrowding the others.
I’ve never had to give seedlings a haircut this fast, before.IMG_1031.jpeg
 

johnny108

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It prevents them from shading their neighbor plants, and it may help to toughen up their stalks and root system.
And, it’s a good idea to do it as you transplant them, as it lowers the water demands on the roots, which may be a bit damaged from the move. This prevents transplant shock, and a slowdown in growth.
 

johnny108

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676
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Germany
Dirt leaves or mud lugs, for me, are the bottom leaves of the plant, once it in its final container, or the ground.
If the leaf has been clipped as a seedling, I remove them at transplant, and bury the seedling up to the next (uncut) leaves in soil. That buried part of the stem will sprout roots and the plant will be more stable in the ground.
 
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