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'Smart' pots vs plastic pots

SmokingCrow

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I'd heard of smart pots, but until recently I had no idea why they were smart. I thought I'd share what I've found and my personal experience.
Smart pots, are trademarked and is used much like band-aid, astro-turf, flit gun and serrano-wrap. Other brand names are air pot, sprung pot, fabric pot, geo pot

In my research much like above the ground, the root tips that are growing produce a hormone (auxin) prevent other roots from forming; apical dominance. As an aside; when transplanting now, I nip the tips of any roots I see.

Back to smart pots.
Let's imagine your plant is in soil, it's roots spreading out and one root tip finds a stone. It changes direction to grow around it and then continues to fan out from the main stem.

In a conventional plastic pot, the root reaches the plastic wall, and tries to grow "around it." In the process it can grow in a circle, the beginning of a hangman's noose. As it wraps around the pot, few other roots grow, because those root tips are producing auxins preventing other roots from forming.

A smart pot, be it fabric or plastic does something different; it allows the perimeter/outer layer of soil in the pot to dry out more quickly than the core. When a root reaches the pot wall, the root tip 'dies' because of lack of water and exposure to air. The production of that hormone/auxin is stopped and new roots form, much like nipping out a bud above ground, to encourage bushy growth. A hairy healthy root ball is formed, rather than a strangulated snake-like root ball. It also prevents the pots from becoming root bound. See photos of fir trees below.

The four big air pots I've used, do what it says on the tin, lovely roots, good crops but the pots are pricey. I bought them as an experiment. The tree below with the dimpled look, is exactly what my roots look like when knocked out of an Air pot.
I'm now sewing pots using spun woven weed suppressant as pictured below (not the nylon woven material) It's cheap and easy to use a standard sewing machine to make a range of sized pots. I've a whack of pint sized (500ml ish) and 3 litre/US quart pots. I add a turn up on the top of the fabric to make it a little stronger. Youtube is filled with simple designs; all you need to remember is that PI x diameter is the length of the circumference, volume is PI x radius squared, x height of the pot and you're off. Most modern thread is nylon so is probably going to outlast the fabric. I did it watching TV during the adverts, it's pretty mindless after a while.

If you want a detailed example of how smart pots work watch
View: https://youtu.be/LdGzn8kbULc
- a little dry but makes it's very clear why pot choice can be important. Searching the internet, for examples it appears these are used smart pots are used extensively by growers on the dark side.


roots.jpg roots1.jpg

weed-control-fabric-roll.jpg
 

LeftyRighty

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Would be nice to know if these type pots (?) would be useful for tobacco (tomatoes, peppers).
I start my tobacco plants in 3 oz plastic cups, and by the time they're big enough to go into the garden, there are massive circular roots bound around the root ball. It's always been my practice to 'cut' these roots a couple places around the root ball and bottom, to encourage new root growth into the garden soil. Seems to work OK, but maybe that's why growth after planting seems restricted or slow.
I usually start about 100+ plants each season, so, this would require bigger pots of suitable material, and larger growth area (more artificial lighting).
 

SmokingCrow

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Would be nice to know if these type pots (?) would be useful for tobacco (tomatoes, peppers).
I start my tobacco plants in 3 oz plastic cups, and by the time they're big enough to go into the garden, there are massive circular roots bound around the root ball. It's always been my practice to 'cut' these roots a couple places around the root ball and bottom, to encourage new root growth into the garden soil. Seems to work OK, but maybe that's why growth after planting seems restricted or slow.
I usually start about 100+ plants each season, so, this would require bigger pots of suitable material, and larger growth area (more artificial lighting).
Hey Leftie,

Cutting root bound roots is common practice, I've done it.
Let's imagine a single spiral root that is say 1 ft long and the blade cut it in half, in real life it's luck-of-the-draw where it is cut.
The end nearest the plant has to repair significant root damage and the nutrient supply is halved because half the root is missing. If the cut is close to the plant stem, then transplant shock could be significant. The root tip auxins are stopped so more roots can grow. Some plants get over it quickly, others take a week or so to recover, my tomatoes and squashes are pretty fussy about being transplanted.
By using a smart pot, there is no roots to cut, the nutrient uptake is practically unaffected so the transplant shock even in a 'sensitive' variety is negligible.
My plant is to grow a few plants of each for my first tobacco grow, so I'll do half in fabric pots and half in solo type pots and see the difference. From a statistical point of vie my n value will be too low, but I'm always up for an experiment. My seeds should arrive this week....It will be interesting to see if the tobacco finishes earlier or if it's a better healthier plant.
 

Yultanman

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Would be nice to know if these type pots (?) would be useful for tobacco (tomatoes, peppers).
I start my tobacco plants in 3 oz plastic cups, and by the time they're big enough to go into the garden, there are massive circular roots bound around the root ball. It's always been my practice to 'cut' these roots a couple places around the root ball and bottom, to encourage new root growth into the garden soil. Seems to work OK, but maybe that's why growth after planting seems restricted or slow.
I usually start about 100+ plants each season, so, this would require bigger pots of suitable material, and larger growth area (more artificial lighting).

i use them for peppers and they are great for all the reasons originally mentioned. I believe they would be fantastic for tobacco as it has a root system that wants to reach out. The air pruning of the roots is perfect for this type of root system in a pot. B50D9153-493C-4B0F-AF14-2E3FBD4F0803.jpeg
these guys are well over a year old. In these tiny pots if they were plastic the plants would have choked themselves out by now
 

SmokingCrow

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Today, in preparation of the seeds arriving, I made some more fabric pots.
My view is that these pots will last a couple of seasons, I'm not making wedding dress so they are a little rough and ready. I want pots roughly the same shape but happy if there is slight variation.

52 pint sized took 3 hours that included time for an evening meal.
Cut the fabric into strips 6.5" across the roll of weed fabric and fold the strip into thirds, using a carving knive slice the folds to produce three bits of fabric 13" across and 6.5" tall

Sew a hem (turn-up?) along the long edge of the material. This will ultimately be the top of the pot.
IMG_3403.JPG

Working with the hem on the outside, fold the material, halving the length so the two hems meet and sew down from the hem to close the side of the pot, leaving the needle in the fabric, lift the foot on the machine and rotate the fabric 90 degrees and sew across the bottom. You now have a pocket.
IMG_3404.JPG

Put your hand inside the pocket at 90 degrees to the seam and flatten the pocket. It should have two triangles, like ears.
IMG_3408.JPEG

And sew across one 'ear' and then the other. Cut them off about and 1/8" or 5mm or so from the seam.
IMG_3405.JPG IMG_3406.JPEG

Now turn the pocket inside out so all the seams and sewing is on the inside
IMG_3407.JPG Voila!

Cost.
1m (yard) x 14 costs £11 US$15 from screwfix. (it's not a brothel but a rather good hardware merchant in the uk)
A convoluted calculation using area means each of these pots costs less than......£0.05 just less than dime.
I don't cost out my time because this is a hobby, you never want to do that....or it's not a cheap option.
As for the sewing machine, it's been idle for a decade or two and the nylon thread was in the sewing box, probably handed down two or three generations. I would recommend using not using the same colour as the material, so you can see where you've sewn.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/apollo-weed-control-fabric-roll-14-x-1m/33004
This weed fabric is just that, soft fabric, the thread is normal thread, as are the needles and settings on the sewing machine. My other half was a little nervous about me using her machine like a racing car; it does have an accelerator. Let the machine feed the material and mind your fingers, that needle will go through a nail in a heartbeat. Don't use pins, you're not making swiss watches.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/apollo-weed-control-fabric-roll-14-x-1m/33004
I hope postie delivers my seed tomorrow.
 

LeftyRighty

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am going to try sewing some when I get time this summer/fall/winter for next years crop.
But, will sew with seams on the outside of the finished pot. This will make it easier to lift the plant root ball out of the fabric pot, won't hang up on the seams. May not be pretty, but more practical.

OK, yesterday, lined the inside of a few 8 oz and one 16 oz styrofoam/plastic cups with 'weed barrier' fabric (no sewing, just overlapped seams), filled with potting soil, and transferred some African Red BL seedlings into these. I selected African Red because they have a 80 day maturity, all my other strains have 45-65 day maturity. Maybe a better root ball will speed things up ??? (wishful thinking). I am doing the 16 oz cup just to see how big and how deep the root ball will extend if less restricted by the container size.

FYI - selected 8 oz & 16 oz cups because that's what I had stored in my picnic basket. Both seemed a bit too big for tobacco starts. I think something between my current 3 oz cups and the 8 oz may be best. Need to check what's available in the grocery aisle.

Update - found 5 oz paper cups, so, lined w/ fabric & transplanted another AR plant. Being paper, although wax/plastic coated, probably will fall apart in the next 6-7 weeks to get into ground.
 
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