Tobacco cultivation in Ukraine: @Sergey Z

[Sergey Ukraine]

Всім привіт! Я створила цю тему, щоб поділитися з вами своїми успіхами і невдачами) Цей рік для мене був першим, можливо я щось не так зробила, але кінцевий результат мене задовольняє)

[Hello everyone! I created this topic to share with you my successes and failures. This year was the first for me, maybe I did something wrong, but the final result satisfies me.]

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

My choice of varieties for this year was as follows:
Amersfoort
Basma Ardabodju
Burley 9/10
Burley Gold
GV 3
Japan 8
Kentucky Nidzicki
Khan Tervel 39
Maryland
Mresko №4
NoName - 24
Paraguay P19
Trabzon
Virginia 355
Virginia Broniszowska
Virginia Gold Feinzucht
Дюмар [Dumar]
Dark Strong
Helena
NC-82
Керти
Символ 4 [Symbol 4]
Соболчский 33 [Sobolevsky 33]
Турецкий [Turkish]

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

Я знайшов кілька фотографій...
[I found some pictures…]

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

Посилання на мій канал, де можна спостерігати весь процес вирощування.

[Link to my channel, where you can watch the entire growing process.]

ÐнаÑолиÑ

Share your videos with friends, family, and the world

www.youtube.com

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

Я додав відео про свій метод бродіння...

[I have added a video of my fermentation method…]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i72Bmeg1QJo&t=10s

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

Now I'm reading a thread about tobacco fermentation and I have questions... In your opinion, how long does it take to ferment tobacco? We usually keep it for two weeks, but yours takes many times longer... is there any justification for this? Or is this duration of time practical?

 

[johnny108]

In general, I use 2 weeks for oriental varieties, and 4 weeks for everything else.
I believe it has something to do with the amount of proteins in the leaf: more proteins, more time is needed to break them down into flavor compounds.
Oriental tobaccos seem to naturally have fewer, especially when grown traditionally, with no fertilizer.

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

Загалом на східні сорти використовую 2 тижні, а на все інше – 4 тижні.
Я вважаю, що це якось пов’язано з кількістю білків у листі: чим більше білків, тим більше часу потрібно, щоб розщепити їх на смакові сполуки.
Східний тютюн, здається, природним чином має менше, особливо якщо вирощувати традиційним способом, без добрив.

Interesting! I saw recommendations on one German website, from 8 to 28 days, depending on the variety and level of leaves... And the temperatures are different, from 42 to 55 degrees Celsius. The reference book says that the fermentation temperature in the industry is 40, 50 or 60 degrees Celsius, depending on the quality of the raw materials. The handbooks also say that mold spreads at temperatures as low as 38 degrees. What I'm reading here is a bit confusing, I'm starting to doubt if I'm doing the right thing...

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

I am planning varieties for the next season, so far I have chosen these, if anyone has grown these varieties, I will be grateful for feedback! I grow tobacco for cigarettes. Or maybe you can recommend something else.

Maryland Mammoth
Spitzblottrige Tabak 202
Kentucky-908
Tennessee TN 19
Rot Front Corso
Tennesse Redleaf
Orinoco Oscuro
Triumpf
White Mammoth
Gold Leaf 939
Yellow Pryor
Coker 258
Xanthi Yaka №18A
Trapezond 1868
Djubek 50
Black Shank Tolerant Samsun
Askold
Bufalo
Burley Bursanica
Burley Panama
Bolivian Criollo Black
Fogeu
Shirey
Virginia Golta

 

[Skafidr]

I had some logistic issues growing only five varieties, congratulations on growing that many in a single season!!

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

I had some logistic issues growing only five varieties, congratulations on growing that many in a single season!!

Thank you! I can still reduce the number of varieties, some seeds are not yet available and may not be on sale. This is just a thought, I plan to have 20-30 varieties, and see how it goes.

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

I don't want to create a new thread and can't answer in the old one, but maybe this graph shows the answer to your reasoning.






It is suggested to reduce the humidity three times, once during languishing and twice during color fixation. The exposure time is 3 hours each time. This allows you to dry the surface of the leaf and promote the removal of moisture from the middle of the leaf to the surface. Information from an agricultural textbook.

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

Good afternoon, everyone! I have this problem (or is it not even a problem).... On some varieties on the leaves there are such flecks of green, they appeared on completely yellow leaves, at the time of drying, it is not mold, more like flecks of chlorophyll ... Most of them were on Basma and Japan 8. But there is also one point here - if you collect the leaf, these toskas are there, if you cut down and dry the bush, they are not there. What can it be, perhaps someone has encountered this? Is this leaf suitable for consumption and does it affect the flavor much? In the photo is a sheet of Paraguay P19.

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

I hope that soon my country will be at peace and I will be able to feel safe and do my favorite things. In the meantime, I can only think about how to build a kiln to burn leaves... I looked through a few threads on the forum, and the concept is clear to me. But there are a few questions...
1. Will there be enough moisture from the leaves to maintain the humidity in the kiln at maximum load?
2. When using Crock Pot, what temperature does the water in it heat up to?
3. Will an ultrasonic mist generator be enough to increase the humidity in the kiln?
4. What kind of humidity sensor do you use?

The design of the oven itself is already formed in my mind, the temperature component will be based on the principle of my smokehouse based on PID regulation, but the decision has not yet been made on the humidity. Thank you all for your comments!

 

[deluxestogie]

Are you intending to color-cure the leaves, kiln (ferment) the leaves, or flue-cure the leaves?

Bob

 

[Knucklehead]

Good afternoon, everyone! I have this problem (or is it not even a problem).... On some varieties on the leaves there are such flecks of green, they appeared on completely yellow leaves, at the time of drying, it is not mold, more like flecks of chlorophyll ... Most of them were on Basma and Japan 8. But there is also one point here - if you collect the leaf, these toskas are there, if you cut down and dry the bush, they are not there. What can it be, perhaps someone has encountered this? Is this leaf suitable for consumption and does it affect the flavor much? In the photo is a sheet of Paraguay P19.

View attachment 53744View attachment 53745

It looks like chloryphyl to me, but I could be wrong. If vinegar or hydrogen peroxide makes it go away, it is probably mold.

 

[Knucklehead]

I hope that soon my country will be at peace and I will be able to feel safe and do my favorite things. In the meantime, I can only think about how to build a kiln to burn leaves... I looked through a few threads on the forum, and the concept is clear to me. But there are a few questions...
1. Will there be enough moisture from the leaves to maintain the humidity in the kiln at maximum load?
2. When using Crock Pot, what temperature does the water in it heat up to?
3. Will an ultrasonic mist generator be enough to increase the humidity in the kiln?
4. What kind of humidity sensor do you use?

The design of the oven itself is already formed in my mind, the temperature component will be based on the principle of my smokehouse based on PID regulation, but the decision has not yet been made on the humidity. Thank you all for your comments!

1. Not from just the leaves. You can kiln in a closed container (like a storage box) and check it every now and then or add humidity with crock pot or mist generator if not using a closed container.
2. I use a temperature controller with settings at 123F to 128F. On at 123F, off at 128F. Mold cannot grow above 122F but if temp gets too high it can kill some enzymes that control aging.
3. yes. It just needs moisture for aging to continue. As long as temp stays above 122F, mold cannot grow.
4. I don't use one. Just a temp controller and a fan to circulate the air.

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

Are you intending to color-cure the leaves, kiln (ferment) the leaves, or flue-cure the leaves?

Bob

In general, you need to do this -



If I solve the issue of humidity, I can add this -



Of course, I will ferment in this chamber, if without humidity control, then in an airtight container, if with control, then just leaves on a string (Kilning (>122°F to 128°F for 1 to 2 months, with humidity). there are difficulties in understanding each other due to the language barrier, the interpreter sometimes translates with errors.

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

It looks like chloryphyl to me, but I could be wrong. If vinegar or hydrogen peroxide makes it go away, it is probably mold.

It's not mold... some people think it's algae, I'm more inclined to think it's chlorophyll...

 

[deluxestogie]

Color-cure is the process of allowing green leaf to naturally lose its chlorophyll, while eliminating albuminous proteins within the leaf. This phase should not be rushed. It usually requires 4 to 8 weeks of moderate ambient temperature and humidity.

Flue-cure is a process that should only be used for Virginia flue-cure varieties, and perhaps certain Orientals. The process begins with green leaf, and follows the flue-curing graph that you just posted. All other varieties (cigar, dark air-cured, Maryland, Pennsylvania, etc.) should be just color-cured, then kilned.

Kilning is a process of accelerated fermentation. It is used with brown leaf that has already color-cured. That is the 4 to 8 weeks exposure to temperatures of 123°F to 128°F, in elevated humidity.

Bob