Chaveta for sale

[BarG]

Have you considered using a dead saw blade? I have one set aside for my next chevetta. I plan to cut it to size using a ferrous cutting disc in my table saw. I have cut steel that way before (successfully). All you have to be careful about is SAWDUST !!! I clean mine up very carefully and them put a damp towel in the spark line. Oh Yeah, the steel gets quite hot so I clamp it before cutting and cool it afterwards (same damp towel.) The new chevetta is another winter project.


John

I have considered. I only have about 50 though ranging from 5"-15". The wet towel on cut line is ingenious if secured so it doesn't get sucked into the cut and wrapped around the arbor. I doubt if that would happen with an abrasive blade. I'm still using my cheap homade on occassion but......! I would love to improve with a better blade. I love the handle. I want to improve my shredder with a larger piece of steel for the cutter and bigger platform. When I removed the filing and retempered I put a slight warp in it. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a large old meat cleaver. Something with a bit more weight behind it and a bit more leverage. And a spring to raise on its own.

 

[johnlee1933]

The wet towel on cut line is ingenious if secured so it doesn't get sucked into the cut and wrapped around the arbor.

I must have misspoken. I do NOT have the towel near the abrasive blade while cutting. It is at the back to catch the sparks. When I'm done I use it to cool the work piece (saw blade). When I said table saw I meant radial arm saw. When I was cutting angle iron for the log lifter I charred the table top a little. I now put a scrap of plywood under the piece I am cutting and I dampen it a little too.

John

 

[BarG]

You spoke right ,I misinterpreted . When sparks are flying it is still ingenious if done properly. I cut all my non ferrouos with the standard wood cutting blades, but the saw blade would be ferrous and need the metal abrasive blade. [Spark line= rear of blade]
A radial will be shooting away from you. A skill saw will be shooting towards you.

 

[johnlee1933]

You spoke right ,I misinterpreted . When sparks are flying it is still ingenious if done properly. I cut all my non ferrouos with the standard wood cutting blades, but the saw blade would be ferrous and need the metal abrasive blade. [Spark line= rear of blade]

I works for me and the abrasive blades are cheap.

 

[Knucklehead]

Is a chaveta rigid or slightly flexible? I have a curved cabinet scraper of excellent steel that would make a good one if it can be somewhat flexible. All I would have to do is sharpen one side.

 

[johnlee1933]

Is a chaveta rigid or slightly flexible? I have a curved cabinet scraper of excellent steel that would make a good one if it can be somewhat flexible. All I would have to do is sharpen one side.

As far as I have been able to determine -- Rigid. Mine is 1/16th thick X 6 1/2 long X 4 deep. The 4" rounds back to 3" to give the cutting edge curve. I like it. I added a piece of 1/4" Tygon tubing at the back to make it more comfortable for me to grip. My only complaint is that being mild steel it won't hold an edge. I'm still trying to find a dead saw blade (I know it's around here somewhere) to cut up for another model.



John

 

[Jitterbugdude]

They are rigid but I really do not think it matters. They also are not kept razor sharp but more on the "almost really sharp" side. When you use a chaveta you are rocking the blade across the leaf to get the cutting action. This is a different motion then if you were using a razor and just sliding it.

 

[johnlee1933]

They are rigid but I really do not think it matters. They also are not kept razor sharp but more on the "almost really sharp" side. When you use a chaveta you are rocking the blade across the leaf to get the cutting action. This is a different motion then if you were using a razor and just sliding it.

Yes and no. I agree rigid might not be important. I still think really sharp is best. I grow less happy as the chevetta grows duller.

John

 

[Michibacy]

Would heating it up (to glowing) dropping it in a carbon substance (oil perhaps) or just water (Yes I know there isn't carbon usually in water) then slowly sharpening it with a file?

We have to do that here at the office, if we use an automatic sharpener or grinding wheel it tends to heat up the metal too much and change the properties of it.

As far as I have been able to determine -- Rigid. Mine is 1/16th thick X 6 1/2 long X 4 deep. The 4" rounds back to 3" to give the cutting edge curve. I like it. I added a piece of 1/4" Tygon tubing at the back to make it more comfortable for me to grip. My only complaint is that being mild steel it won't hold an edge. I'm still trying to find a dead saw blade (I know it's around here somewhere) to cut up for another model.

View attachment 2115

John

 

[johnlee1933]

Would heating it up (to glowing) dropping it in a carbon substance (oil perhaps) or just water (Yes I know there isn't carbon usually in water) then slowly sharpening it with a file?

We have to do that here at the office, if we use an automatic sharpener or grinding wheel it tends to heat up the metal too much and change the properties of it.

That is at least part of the "case hardening" process. From what I have been able to learn the amount of carbon penetration just heating red hot and plunging in oil doesn't get enough penetration to do much good. The hard layer is too thin. I have a soft coal forge. Perhaps if I heated it to cherry red and let it cool in the coal (near pure carbon) I could get a decent case. I think it's easier (maybe) to find my old saw blade.

John

 

[leverhead]

For case hardening, a better name is carburizing, you need a source of carbon monoxide at a red heat. Barium carbonate gives it up at a good temperature to do the job, the carbon diffuses into the steel raising the carbon content with time. A quench will make it hard and a draw afterwards will leave a manageable hardness to hold an edge without being brittle. It would be easier to start with a good piece of steel like O-1 or W-1 and bypass the carburizing.

 

[Michibacy]

...Yeah, what you said Leverhead

 

[johnlee1933]

For case hardening, a better name is carburizing, you need a source of carbon monoxide at a red heat. Barium carbonate gives it up at a good temperature to do the job, the carbon diffuses into the steel raising the carbon content with time. A quench will make it hard and a draw afterwards will leave a manageable hardness to hold an edge without being brittle. It would be easier to start with a good piece of steel like O-1 or W-1 and bypass the carburizing.

Agreed. Is saw blade material close to those grades?

J

 

[BarG]

They are rigid but I really do not think it matters. They also are not kept razor sharp but more on the "almost really sharp" side. When you use a chaveta you are rocking the blade across the leaf to get the cutting action. This is a different motion then if you were using a razor and just sliding it.

Hence the curved blade and clean cut when you encounter the difference from leaf to ribs.
[anyone is welcome to fill in proper terms]
If you have an old scraper just grind a slight radius, hone the edge and add a handle and it should rigid enough.

 

[leverhead]

Agreed. Is saw blade material close to those grades?

J

A non-carbide blade should be a good choice. Carbide blades don't need to be that hard, the tips are brazed on. If you can get a fine pitch blade, you wont have as much grinding to do. Keep a bucket of water close to keep it cool, if you're discoloring it, slow down. Don't use wet rags around a grinding wheel, they'll catch and get sucked in. If you can't handle the steel with your bare hands, put it in the water. If you don't overheat the edge, it should be hard enough keep a pretty good edge.

Steve

 

[Knucklehead]

Hence the curved blade and clean cut when you encounter the difference from leaf to ribs.
[anyone is welcome to fill in proper terms]
If you have an old scraper just grind a slight radius, hone the edge and add a handle and it should rigid enough.

My unsharpened cabinet scraper. About to be sharpened. Rough cut walnut rolling board. My Batcha BigBonner Bachey is on the oops truck today so I'm scrambing to get some tools ready. i'll let you know how it goes and post a pic of my first cigar in DIY cigar thread.

 

[Knucklehead]

I tried the chaveta out on a piece of old Knucklehead I had left over from another project. Nice and sharp. Will update when I get my leaf.

 

[johnlee1933]

I tried the chaveta out on a piece of old Knucklehead I had left over from another project. Nice and sharp. Will update when I get my leaf.

View attachment 2123

Golly ! I never thought of casing my leaf with blood. Let me know how it smokes. LOL

J

 

[Knucklehead]

John - Tastes like a rare steak with a very nutty aftertaste. LOL

 

[Knucklehead]

Oh BTW- That's some killer steel in that cabinet scraper. It's make by Garlick Saw Co. out of Sheffield, Eng. I bet it's made from saw steel. It sharpened like knife steel. It's not too flexible, it takes a bit of pressure to flex it but it spring right back. I think it's going to work really well. I'll know in about an hour when UPS gets here with my leaf.