Last years tobacco plants
- Thread starter eugene
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Eugene,
they are putting up new growth. It should be fast, cause they got good roots already. If you got some extra space, let them grow. Cultivate around them and give them a shot of fertilizer and watch out!
they are putting up new growth. It should be fast, cause they got good roots already. If you got some extra space, let them grow. Cultivate around them and give them a shot of fertilizer and watch out!
Steve2md
Well-Known Member
sweet! good luck with tobaccozilla!
I've never done it, but I'd try to remove all of the suckers except for the healthiest looking one and grow it like a regular plant. I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work. I think you'll have a higher than average chance of having a tobacco with higher nicotine than you got from the same plant last year.
If you let a bunch of sucker grow, the leaves will be very small and difficult to inspect for bugs. A tobacco bush would also make for some really good breeding grounds for everything you don't want in and on your tobacco.
If you let a bunch of sucker grow, the leaves will be very small and difficult to inspect for bugs. A tobacco bush would also make for some really good breeding grounds for everything you don't want in and on your tobacco.
I grew a second crop of MCY last year from suckers. I cannot say for sure what effect it had. It ended up just mixed in with everything else. I don't notice anything horrid from it though. I had primed all the previous tobacco and stalk harvested the suckers. I actually preferred the suckers but that may be due to the curing process.
Leaves ended up smaller and the plant didn't develop overall as much as the first growth. Btu it was still respectable. Given I was trying to wring every leaf out of my plants as possible I was happy with the results.
I would limit it to one sucker (One Stalk) as usual though.
Leaves ended up smaller and the plant didn't develop overall as much as the first growth. Btu it was still respectable. Given I was trying to wring every leaf out of my plants as possible I was happy with the results.
I would limit it to one sucker (One Stalk) as usual though.
Nearly all of the sucker leaves that I harvested in 2011--some primed, some stalk harvested--are still hanging. The suckers seemed to be particularly difficult to color-cure. All of it, though, is slowly losing its green tinge. I suspect that the underlying problem with its color-cure is how late they were harvested. By the time my suckers were brought in (some not fully mature), it was late in the season. The weather was no longer conducive to timely color-curing.
I believe it was Garner (Garner, WW: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICAL METHODS OF CURING TOBACCO. USDA. US Govt Printing Office, Washington, 1909. [download from archive.org] - 3.6MB) who suggested that unfavorable weather during a growing season was less to blame for poor leaf curing than the delay it caused in maturation, and thus the lateness of the time during which the leaf began its color cure.
I suspect that suckers arising from last year's stumps would be more likely to end up in the shed at a more favorable time, and color-cure better.
Bob
I believe it was Garner (Garner, WW: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICAL METHODS OF CURING TOBACCO. USDA. US Govt Printing Office, Washington, 1909. [download from archive.org] - 3.6MB) who suggested that unfavorable weather during a growing season was less to blame for poor leaf curing than the delay it caused in maturation, and thus the lateness of the time during which the leaf began its color cure.
I suspect that suckers arising from last year's stumps would be more likely to end up in the shed at a more favorable time, and color-cure better.
Bob
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