Some great answers up there. I'll jump in with the firm assertion that totally dry tobacco will never "age". What we consider to be "aging" changes are chemical changes that are
mostly accelerated (on the order of a thousand-fold) by enzymes within the leaf lamina. And those chemical changes require water molecules. No water, no aging.
@ciennepi refers to the water vapor equilibrium (within a closed container) above a saturated solution of sodium chloride--table salt. That solution is made initially by dumping non-iodized salt (I use rock salt when I do this.) into a small vessel--cup or tray--of water. You add enough salt so that some of it remains undissolved. At typical room temperature, the relative humidity above the salt will remain at ~75%RH. [You can use this same phenomenon to accurately calibrate any hygrometer.]
If you have adequate room within a humidor, you can add an
open bag (like 12-16 ounces) of super-cheap, commercial black Cavendish tobacco. It will have been literally soaked in polypropylene glycol, and will dramatically stabilize the humidity within the humidor in the mid-to-high 60s RH. If it is aromatic, then the humidor will smell just like the ones at a tobacconist shop, and doesn't seem to adversely affect the tobacco or cigars within the humidor.
If you use canning jars (with sealed lids), make sure the moisture within the jar is not too high (tobacco should be flexible, but not "moist"), to prevent mold. Otherwise, if you actually "can" the tobacco as you would home-canned green beans, it would be sterile, and will never mold, so long as it is not opened.
For pipe tobacco containers that are regularly opened, the tobacco will eventually become too dry. Just dip your fingertip into some water, and flick a few drops onto the tobacco prior to reclosing the container, check it again the next time you open it. After a few trials, you will become an expert at adding just the right moisture to keep the tobacco nicely packable in a pipe.
Bob