Curing shed, approve please

[deluxestogie]

For packing and shipping cigar filler leaf, most Caribbean and Central American leaf providers remove the thickest 2/3 of the stem of each leaf, allowing the thin stem of the tip to remain. This results in a leaf that lies perfectly flat, but with the appearance of a pair of pants, or frog legs.

Depending on the thickness of the remaining central stem, sometimes it must be removed before final processing or cigar rolling.

Bob

 

[Knucklehead]

What does it mean frog-legging??

Here is a good photo from www.wholeleaftobacco.com that shows frog legged filler leaf: http://www.wholeleaftobacco.com/Criollo-98-Ligero-Crio98L.htm
I only remove as much of the main stem that is larger than the secondary veins on cigarette leaf for shredding, or my cigar filler leaf.

 

[CT Tobaccoman]

Gargyno,

Just for the record, what kind of tobacco will you be curing in there? In Conn., (I worked for professional growers,) we have 2 kinds of tobacco, basically--air cured and fire cured. The same sheds are used for both.

Depending on what kind of tobacco you're curing will determine what you want the shed to be able to provide. It looks OK for air curing and even for fire curing, where you have stoves or fires on the floor. (We used charcoal briquettes before switching to propane to cure shade tobacco in the 1960s.) The tobacco needs to be at least 6 feet above any fires, preferably 10 feet.

As long as you can increase or decrease humidity with your shed it should be OK. We used to rake the dirt floors of sheds before curing to eliminate mold. A plastic floor won't permit fire. Do you live in a temperate or a semi-tropical climate?

Even air cured tobacco might need to be fired at some point if humidity gets too high--like if it rains for days at a time. Your shed resembles those small thatched roof partly open curing buildings in Central America. Conversely, if the weather is very dry for a spell, you will need to close it up tight and conserve the humidity inside.

Too much dry weather is worse than too much wet. At least high humidity can be controlled by artificial heat, but excessive dryness will not permit a proper progression of colors as it cures. For the first few days I would seal that rig up tight, bottoms too. Then, as the tobacco fades to lime and yellow, open up gradually to let fresh air in.

A lot depends on your tobacco type and your climate.

Charlie

 

[gargynko]

I will be curing Virginia.

So I made 1 stick of dirt leaves (? I dont know if dirt leaves or mud lugs, but they were dirty from soil) for an experiment and lot of them turned brown after few days, mostly the smaller leaves, but also bigger leaves are turning yellow or at least brighter green. No sign of mold but last days was really hot (more than 35°C), these days is raining and humidity inside the shed is noticeable higher. The brown ones which were crispy are now really pliable.

But I still plan to do minor improvements. I will cover whole shed so I can control humidity easier.

I am going to buy HYGROMETER, but I am not sure which one...is the cheaper one enough or should I look after more expensive? There is a lot of discussion about accuracy of hygrometer so I am hesitant. What would you advise?

 

[deluxestogie]

You can buy a cheap hygrometer. The analog hygrometers are not very accurate, but that doesn't matter. Look at the gauge and feel the leaf with your hands several times a day for a week or two. Then you will have an idea of what value on the cheap hygrometer indicates a slightly pliable leaf. [Some of them can be calibrated, but most cheap ones cannot.]

Bob

 

[CT Tobaccoman]

Not sure if they are still allowed to sell mercury thermometers, but a wet and dry bulb thermometer is probably more accurate than cheap China stuff. You adjust your heat and humidity according to the spread that you want on the wet and dry. For curing Virginia (Bright?) I have no idea but I do know that it is an exact process with gradual raising of temp to the max. Takes 2-3 days and must be constantly watched. Don't think I could ever do that at home.

There's more than one way to cure a leaf, though. Like Bob says, it is more intuition than exact science.

 

[leverhead]

... Don't think I could ever do that at home.

It's been done.

 

[deluxestogie]

I've assumed we are discussing air-curing in a shed, rather than flue-curing.

Methods for home flue-curing are discussed in the flue-curing threads: http://fairtradetobacco.com/forums/28-Flue-Cured

Bob

 

[gargynko]

So, I ve made some minor changes. I added another canvas so the shed is now fully covered. I did it like some kind of oblique roof so larger are will stay dry when raining. You can see that both ends are not closed thorougly but I will add another covering in case of need. Floor remains bare. Also you can see 3 pairs of board on each side - it is made for hanging finished strings of tobacco. Oh I forgot to mention I raised whole shed slightly so be able to do 3 floors.

This should be final arrangement.


(the stuff wont be inside while curing off course )

Now please tell me how to do if

- too humid

- too dry

I am a bit confused about controlling air flow. I dont know in which cases I should open the shed and when to close it...

 

[deluxestogie]

In general, with a basic, vented shed, you open it at night, when the humidity rises, and close it during the day to prevent drying. For weather variations during the day, ventilate more when too humid, ventilate less when to dry. The only remedy for prolonged high humidity (average humidity too high for 3 or more consecutive days) is to add supplemental heat.

Bob

 

[DGBAMA]

I use a cheap weather station to keep up with conditions. Works well.
http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/16888928?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=41833582510&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=19880599990&veh=sem

 

[DGBAMA]

Place the remote sensor inside your curing area.

 

[Knucklehead]

It looks good Jakub. Best of luck with your harvest.

 

[Brown Thumb]

I approve it. Now comes the FUN. Good luck, it is easier than it sounds. Don't think this is rocket science. If I can do it so can a Ground Hog. Wong Hole.
BT

 

[gargynko]

Do you guys even use hygrometer while curing? If not, how do you determine "well, this seems to be right" condition.

 

[Brown Thumb]

Not curing, but beer making yes.

 

[Knucklehead]

Do you guys even use hygrometer while curing? If not, how do you determine "well, this seems to be right" condition.

I use a wireless remote hygrometer/thermometer in my shop. The probe goes in the shop and the base goes in my house. I can monitor conditions in the shop from my home. (from my recliner actually) This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/Meade-TM005X-...47&sr=8-8&keywords=wireless+remote+hygrometer

The picture doesn't show the probe, but the probe also displays temp and humidity so I can look at it while I'm in my shop, or I can read it from the base in my house. Maximum distance is 100 ft. The base and the probe both use AA batteries.

I also use it in my seed storage containers to know that the seed have dried down enough to not mold, or to refrigerate or freeze if I want to. I store seed in plastic 50 cal. ammo boxes.

 

[Brown Thumb]

I read it As hydrometer Sorry. Yes, I use one like Knucks also. Everyone does in one way shape or form.

 

[Jitterbugdude]

I read it As hydrometer Sorry. Yes, I use one like Knucks also. Everyone does in one way shape or form.

Got that right BT.. I use my hands and feel the leaf. I manually open or close the doors based on my hand hygrometer reading.

 

[Chicken]

I'll be constructing a shed similar to the ones showed here...this year..it will double as a greenhouse by removing the plastic layer