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Basic equipment needed for production crops

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FmGrowit

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This will be an ongoing thread....the initial post is not intended to be all inclusive for everything you'll need to grow a production crop.

The following list of equipment is based on a crop of one acre or more. The more acres you grow, the bigger the equipment will be and the need for additional equipment will increase with the size of the crop.

The first piece of equipment you will need is a tractor. Crops less than an acre can be maintained with a large rototiller and hand held sprayer, but one ace is the absolute limit...unless you have 8-10 hours a day to dedicate to your 1 1/2 acre crop.

The tractor will need to be large enough to pull a setter and a sprayer. High-crop tractors work best because they allow spraying later in the season. John Deere makes an excellent high crop tractor, but they're pricy ($4000 to $12000) A restored J.D. will go for $40,000 and more.
high cropdeere-.jpg highcropaxle.jpg

A basic Ford 8N will be plenty of tractor for crops up to 5 acres.
Ford8n.jpg

These are available for between $1500 and $3000. Almost all implements made for this scale crop will work with this basic 3 point hitch and PTO. The four point stance is far safer than any 3 point wheal base even on flat ground.

Next piece of equipment would be a plow. A single drop will be fine for a couple of acres, but any more than that, you'll want to use a 2 bottom plow. These are pretty cheap and generally available for about $300. I've seen "no till" farming and I think the only tobacco that would grow using no till would be an Oriental planted like clover or alfalfa hay...and harvested the same way. Depending on the condition of your tractor and the type of ground you're working, you might not be able to pull the 2 bottom with an 8N. Heavy clay will be really tough, but sandy soil will be easy.
plow.jpg

Next is a disc.
You can get a decent set of discs for around $500, but they can go up to $1000 depending on how far you want to travel to get it. Invest in a good set...you'll use them several times a year.
disc_plow.jpg

Cultivator:
I like the rotary hoe for cultivating. I think it does a better job of uprooting weeds and it also aerates the soil at the same time.
rotary hoe.jpg

Standard or traditional are a lot easier to find than the rotary hoe and they do work at furrowing the rows too. Spaced properly, you can throw dirt on to the rows where a rotary hoe can not. These are available for $400- to $1000 depending on condition. You'll probably use this implement more than anything other.
cult_rear2sm.jpg

Spring rake/ Spring tooth cultivator:
These are somewhat optional, but they will level the ground out if you have some deep furrows from over discing or turning to hard with the disc down. The cultivator can also work at evening out the field a little also.
springtooth.jpgThis soil is a good example of working a field when it's too wet. Never work wet soil. You can get away with plowing somewhat damp soil, but that's about it.

Setter/Transplanter:
This is probably the single most important piece you'll need. Of course it won't do you any good without a tractor, but you'll want your setter in very good working order. A single row setter can do 5 acres with no problem and it will only set you back $500 -$1000 for a good one.
setter.jpg
This is the one I grew up on and it's probably the most common single row setter around. A four row setter will make short work of getting all your plants out.
setter4row.jpg

Sprayer:
Sprayers are necessary for both weed control and pest control. What's more important than the size or type of sprayer is the nozzle type your using. Follow manufacturer's recommendation for proper coverage.
 

deluxestogie

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This is great information. It's curious how affordable the equipment seems to be, compared to common suburban lawn care machines and hobby garden roto-tillers.

I found some interesting info on strip-planting of tobacco:
BAILEY W.A.: Use of strip-tillage systems for dark-fired tobacco production in Western Kentucky USA (CORESTA Meeting Agro.-Phyto Groups said:
Strip tillage is a form of conservation tillage that has been readily adopted by several dark-fired tobacco growers in western Kentucky. Strip tillage production has increased each year since 2007 and currently accounts for at least 15% (1325 Ha) of the total dark tobacco production in Kentucky and Tennessee. Strip tillage has been much more readily adopted by growers than no-tillage, as less plant mortality following transplanting is usually observed. Strip tillage is somewhat of a hybrid between traditional conventional tillage and no-tillage where tobacco is transplanted into cultivated strips 30 to 40 cm wide while the remainder of soil surface is uncultivated. Strip tillage provides many of the benefits of no tillage production, such as soil and water conservation, fuel and labor savings due to reduced field preparation, and reduced delays in post-transplant field operations following rains. In addition, where dark tobacco requires field wilting on the ground at harvest, strip tillage appears to have some effect on keeping tobacco cleaner. Strip tillage requires a burndown application of a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate or paraquat, followed by use of a strip-tiller implement to form the strips. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can also be applied as band applications as strips are being made, and research has shown that recommended application rates can be reduced by one-third if these nutrients are applied as band applications. On most soils in western Kentucky, the use of a powered tiller implement designed to match the strips is also recommended just prior to transplanting. Research with grower cooperators has been conducted since 2008 to evaluate additional benefits to strip tillage compared to traditional, conventional tillage systems. Results of this field research suggest a 30 to 50% reduction in land preparation costs, as well as possible yield benefits in dry seasons.
University of Kentucky, Research & Education Center, 1205 Hopkinsville St., Princeton, KY 42445, USA
[emphasis mine]

Bob
 

Jitterbugdude

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I have 2- 8N's ( one with a loader) and a small Kubota compact tractor. There are pros and cons for both. If you are going to do more than maybe 1/2 an acre then you definitely need something like an 8N with a 2 bottom plow. Less than about an acre and you'd really kick some ass with a Kubota with a tiller attached to it. You cannot put a tiller on an 8N because it does not have a live PTO. The Kubota is also nice because it is diesel... tons of torque and it just sips fuel all day, the downside is cost. An 8N can be had for ( roughly) .. $1500-$3000 whereas a 1986 compact Kubota diesel with loader still goes for about 4 grand!
 

FmGrowit

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Continued from post 1.

Sprayer:
Sprayers are necessary for both weed control and pest control. What's more important than the size or type of sprayer is the nozzle type your using. Follow manufacturer's recommendation for proper nozzle, type angle pressure for each application. You will very likely have to invest in several sets of nozzles for a single season.
FIELD SPRAYER2.jpg

Wagon:
Your wagon is your biggest helper. From taking workers out to the fields to bringing the crop in out of the fields. you'll want a nice rubber wheel wagon. A good wagon will cost almost as much as your tractor, but you'll need it for just about everything you do. If you're Growing Burley or any number of stalk cured types, you'll need to either be able to modify you general use wagon or invest in a specialty wagon just for bringing in the crop. Don't forget your son or grandson will want to help too.
farm wagon.jpg tobacco-wagon__.jpg GC red wagon.jpg

Brush Hog:
Keeping the weeds down is not only important in the fields, but all around the fields as well. Make short work of hogging off your cover crop every Spring and keep things looking good the rest of the year. A well maintained grounds reflects the the quality of the farm. You should be able to pick one up with your tractor pretty cheap, but a decent one will run about $600 - $1000. Of course you could keep sheep or goats to do the work too, but then you'll need a fence. Ahhh....it never ends.
brush hog.jpg

Curing barn:
Whatever works. The three most important things to remember is ventilation ventilation and ventilation.
TobaccoBarn.jpg
Note how every 3rd or 4th siding board is hinged on top to allow the boards to be opened like windows to allow for increased ventilation.
 

FmGrowit

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I've never tried pulling a tiller with an 8N, but I guess it would be kind of tough...although the tiller action would definitely stop the PTO shaft faster faster than a brush hog.

Ahh yes, the good old days of clutching though the hay field. Almost forgot how dangerous those 8N's are.

This will help you choose the right tractor for yourself
All about Power Take Off
http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Power Take Off Types.htm

History of Ford Tractors. If you're going to buy one, know what to expect from it
http://www.ssbtractor.com/features/Ford_tractors.html

Massey Ferguson tractors
http://www.ssbtractor.com/features/Massey_Ferguson_tractors.html
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