Oldfella
Well-Known Member
How are you watering, from the top or the bottom?
Oldfella
Oldfella
Bohemian snus grow 2022
- Thread starter Roastbeast
- Start date
The only time I saw something similar was after a short rain shower and the sun popped back out strong and harsh. There were some white water spots show up after that, but if you're not misting the leaves then I don't know at this point.
Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
I’m watering from the bottom and using the orchid fert. I misted them once last week with 1.5% hydrogen peroxide to ward against mold, but I’ve always done that and never noticed any ill effects from that. Disconcerting!
Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
As of today there’s some wrinkling going on as well so there’s definitely something they don’t like.
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Oldfella
Well-Known Member
I wonder about misting seedlings with hydrogen Peroxide at 1.5%. I never go above 1% on full grown and cured leaves. I have never seen mold on seedlings, but maybe I'm just lucky. I think you may have bleached them. They will recover or they won't, time will tell. Keep an eye on them and see if you’re getting nice fresh growth. Keep away from the bleach, way too strong for your babies.
Oldfella
Perhaps like direct application of a strong oxidant to the leaves. An issue called "weather fleck" injures tobacco leaves as a result of excess ozone in the air (typically near urban or industrial areas). The H2O2 may be to blame. Or you might have tobacco mosaic virus.
Bob
Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
We’ve survived! Now clearly we don’t have enough room, though, so the question is whether to plant now and risk a frost or go through all the trouble and risk of transferring to bigger temporary pots for the last two weeks. Or is there a third option?
Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
Second try, pic didnt upload
BrotherJ
Well-Known Member
I think the safest thing to do is just leave them as they are with too little space until you're absolutely sure there won't be any more frosts and then transplant outside.
You could transplant them outside when it's too cold and that'll put a pause on their growth. You could put them through two transplants, first to bigger pots and then outside, and that will put a pause on their growth. No matter what you do, there's going to be a pause on their growth, but you don't have to put them out and risk losing some to the cold, and you don't have to put them through two transplants and risk losing or damaging some that way. If you leave them in the starter trays, they'll stay small while they're in the trays, but they won't take any additional damage. I say just wait.
That is what I would do with any plants. Maybe someone with more tobacco-specific experience can chime in.
You could transplant them outside when it's too cold and that'll put a pause on their growth. You could put them through two transplants, first to bigger pots and then outside, and that will put a pause on their growth. No matter what you do, there's going to be a pause on their growth, but you don't have to put them out and risk losing some to the cold, and you don't have to put them through two transplants and risk losing or damaging some that way. If you leave them in the starter trays, they'll stay small while they're in the trays, but they won't take any additional damage. I say just wait.
That is what I would do with any plants. Maybe someone with more tobacco-specific experience can chime in.
You can clip off ¼ to ½ of each of the larger leaves, to avoid shading its neighbors. That is standard practice for commercial growers, for holding plants that are ready to be transplanted. Once the plant matures, you will have sacrificed nothing in the leaf yield.
Bob
Bob
Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
I think the fact that I never managed to get a soil test done is coming back to haunt me. Some plants look great but a little more than half are yellower and smaller. So far I’ve just been using a universal fertilizer each week. Is it possible to determine just by sight what’s missing and what fert should be used?
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It looks to me that some of them are dry. I'd give those a little more water and see what happens: bet they'll bounce back. Caveat emptor: I've never grown tobacco, so take this for what it's worth.
OK, I'll stay in my lane now
OK, I'll stay in my lane now
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wruk53
Well-Known Member
I agree, not only does the ground look dry, it looks compacted also.
When were they planted in the ground? What varieties are "yellow"? They look to me like they are about 3 weeks in the ground, and just now emerging from transplant shock.
Bob
EDIT: Judging from the greenery surrounding the garden (at the top of picture 3), I'm not so worried about their moisture.
Bob
EDIT: Judging from the greenery surrounding the garden (at the top of picture 3), I'm not so worried about their moisture.
I'm with deluxe here. I see dry cracks in the field but the surrounding vegetation is lush. My plants survived a drought so bad one year that almost all of my dogwood trees (in the dense woods, not open yard) and many red oak trees died. The grass brown and dead and cattle farmers were buying hay that year because they had none of their own to cut. I didn't water a single time. The tobacco would wilt down in the heat of the day and stand back up at night. Incredibly resilient plants.
Tell us about your fertilizer. Unless it is especially weak, once a week seems a little much. If it's not weak they may be getting too much of something. I just fertilized my containers for the third time and I planted out around mid April using water soluble fertilizer. The first dose was half strength. When I field planted in the past, using granular garden fertilizer, I would only apply fertilizer twice all season.
This has some photos and brief discussions of nutrient deficiencies or toxicity. Not saying that's what it is, but we need more info and maybe eliminate some possibilities. Transplant shock is also a strong possibility in which case you just need to wait them out and don't try to "fix" it.
Tell us about your fertilizer. Unless it is especially weak, once a week seems a little much. If it's not weak they may be getting too much of something. I just fertilized my containers for the third time and I planted out around mid April using water soluble fertilizer. The first dose was half strength. When I field planted in the past, using granular garden fertilizer, I would only apply fertilizer twice all season.
This has some photos and brief discussions of nutrient deficiencies or toxicity. Not saying that's what it is, but we need more info and maybe eliminate some possibilities. Transplant shock is also a strong possibility in which case you just need to wait them out and don't try to "fix" it.
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Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot. They’ll be four weeks in the ground this weekend. The difference in size and appearance is not so much by variety as by location in the patch, with the ones in the back right corner (see third pic above) looking lovely to my eye and the rest scrawny and yellow. Interestingly, that corner gets a lot less direct sunlight in the evening. Also interesting though is the fact that the soil always looks dry on top and just a centimeter under the surface it’s actually quite damp and stays damp thanks to the adjoining pond and valley it’s in. The “good” plants’ soil is actually very slightly drier than the yellow ones, according to the meter.
The fertilizer is “Kristalon Gold” N-P-K (06/20/19) + microelements B, Mo, Fe, Cu, Mn, Zn.
The first pic below is Japan8, which look worst, because they're also wrinkly. I dug the soil a little so you can see beneath. The second is "good" Madole and the third yellow Madole (which somehow looks bigger and greener in the photo than in reality).
The fertilizer is “Kristalon Gold” N-P-K (06/20/19) + microelements B, Mo, Fe, Cu, Mn, Zn.
The first pic below is Japan8, which look worst, because they're also wrinkly. I dug the soil a little so you can see beneath. The second is "good" Madole and the third yellow Madole (which somehow looks bigger and greener in the photo than in reality).
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The nitrogen number seems a little low for tobacco, but without a soil test it's hard to pin down. Our commercial tobacco farmer here seems to recommend between 20-10-20 to 20-20-20 depending on soil fertility. Tobacco uses alot of nitrogen and potash.
Having said that, the young leaves are darker green than any of the older, more yellow leaves. If they continue to look pale, you might bump up the nitrogen a bit but don't panic, none of them seem to be in any danger and nitrogen may not even be the problem. You may have narrowed down the suspects with your mention of it being confined to a certain area.
One suspect is water table from the pond you mentioned and the fact that area stays damp. How damp is damp? Tobacco doesn't like wet feet. Without further evidence I'm going with wet feet for now.
Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
Just came back from a two-week holiday, it's always exciting to see how the garden will develop when left to its own devices. With the tobacco, it's a mixed bag - pretty much exactly the same situation described above. The ones that were growing well are still growing well (though it looks like some slugs have been at them, so the ducks must have been slacking off). The ones that were stunted have hardly grown at all. Worst among them to my great dismay is Japan8, which I was looking forward to most. Nothing in Knucklehead's diagnostic key seems to fit. I don't know if there's any sense doing a soil text now and waiting weeks for the results. I suppose all I can do is to keep building up the soil over the next year. Interestingly, there's one row of CBD right in the middle of the worst plants that seems to be doing just fine.
Here's a closer shot showing the worse vs better plants and one of the whole field.
Here's a closer shot showing the worse vs better plants and one of the whole field.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
So a cursory search seems that cbd is a heavy drinker. The articles I saw suggest they need 6 gallons of water DAILY to produce. Meaning that your cbd is showing you that your tobacco has wet feet so I'm siding with @Knucklehead on this one
Roastbeast
Well-Known Member
So this is where things lay. As you see, in the last pic, the plants to the left are generally more vibrant and the ones in the back are smaller and yellow, but there is no clear pattern. The first pic is the harrow velvet, all treated exactly the same, but some are smaller and yellower and the ones on the left look fine (I guess - I hadn’t grown it before, maybe it’s a little shorter than it should be?)
The main question remains what has caused this. I would like to continue using this location in the future (after maybe skipping next year to build up the soil), but if it’s because of deep pockets of water, for example, as I suspect, then I guess I won’t know unless I amend and replant a crop.
Can someone tell me, regarding the plants that are smaller but still green and vibrant, can I use those leaves as I normally would or will the be somehow defective?
The main question remains what has caused this. I would like to continue using this location in the future (after maybe skipping next year to build up the soil), but if it’s because of deep pockets of water, for example, as I suspect, then I guess I won’t know unless I amend and replant a crop.
Can someone tell me, regarding the plants that are smaller but still green and vibrant, can I use those leaves as I normally would or will the be somehow defective?
