Cold weather variety? Want non-sweet product.

[ChinaVoodoo]

Let's all keep good records. Planting Date, Transplant, Days to Flower, Days to Yellowin... Something like that. I bet there is enough of us here to compile some reasonably useful, yet not entirely precise data for future use.

What do you think. I figure it'll give some clarity to the subject.

 

[Knucklehead]

Great thread. KY16 is often listed as burley mammoth. That's the variety I typically grow in summer and again over winter. I just thought they all did that.

Didn't think you were picking on me. We're all hear to learn.

I had the same ideas you did. I was actually the one talking about shortening of days triggering flowering when Jessica set me straight. That's why I remembered so good. She "schooled" me. lol.

 

[jolly]

I had the same ideas you did. I was actually the one talking about shortening of days triggering flowering when Jessica set me straight. That's why I remembered so good. She "schooled" me. lol.

In reading that thread, I've realized my mistake this year -- and wish I'd seen it earlier. I started the KY16 seed in Dec. I went to check it yesterday -- dug down into the bud, and discovered it already had a tiny flower bud. There are still quite a few leaves that will come up and get big, but i'm guessing the timing has once again killed me on this one. But... going forward, if I start the seed in March, I'll bet I can get a huge plant growing through a Florida summer. Now I know...

To tie this back to the OP. If you have a short season and grow photoperiod sensitive varieties, they should mature on time for your area since they're taking their cue from nature Something to look in to.

 

[Knucklehead]

. But... going forward, if I start the seed in March, I'll bet I can get a huge plant growing through a Florida summer. Now I know....

I started my seed Feb. 20 for planting into the patch April 20. You are further south than I am. Chicken (in Florida) started his a couple weeks before I did. If you wait to start your seed in March, planting the patch in May, you may miss some much needed spring showers. I'm just guessing at your weather. I could be way off base. Perhaps you are holding off to catch better curing weather (proper humidity for curing) at harvest time, which is something else to think about in terms of seed starting timing. You have to catch your best curing average humidity.

Start seed (indoors if it is cold) 6-8 weeks before you plan to move them to the patch. I go with 8 weeks just to give me plenty of leeway with the weather and if they do go the full eight weeks, the seedlings are a little stronger, and closer to being past the attractive stage to slugs. I wouldn't go much over 8 weeks, you would just be wasting electricity.

In areas with frost and freezing, I use this handy calculator to figure my first and last frost dates. I plan to plant my patch shortly after no more chance of frost. I then go backwards 8 weeks and that is the date I start my seed. Here's the calculator, using your zip code:
http://fairtradetobacco.com/threads/781-Last-and-First-Frost-Date-When-Is-It-Really

 

[jolly]

I started my seed Feb. 20 for planting into the patch April 20. You are further south than I am. Chicken (in Florida) started his a couple weeks before I did. If you wait to start your seed in March, planting the patch in May, you may miss some much needed spring showers. I'm just guessing at your weather. I could be way off base. Perhaps you are holding off to catch better curing weather (proper humidity for curing) at harvest time, which is something else to think about in terms of seed starting timing, especially if you don't have frosts to worry about. You have to catch your best curing average humidity.
Start seed (indoors if it is cold) 6-8 weeks before you plan to move them to the patch. I go with 8 weeks just to give me plenty of leeway with the weather and if they do go the full eight weeks, the seedlings are a little stronger, and closer to being past the attractive stage to slugs. I wouldn't go much over 8 weeks, you would just be wasting electricity.

Our rainy season runs from about June through mid November. In terms of starting seed, I usually shave the in pot time... and sometimes I sow outside directly since there's no frost danger. I'm not sure what the photoperiod trigger would be for these (ie. daylight hour min threshold before plant bolts), but assuming its 12 hours of daylight, I could start in mid Mar and grow till Oct 1. That's almost a 7 month grow before flowering is triggered! Holy Burley Batman!

 

[Knucklehead]

Our rainy season runs from about June through mid November. In terms of starting seed, I usually shave the in pot time... and sometimes I sow outside directly since there's no frost danger. I'm not sure what the photoperiod trigger would be for these (ie. daylight hour min threshold before plant bolts), but assuming its 12 hours of daylight, I could start in mid Mar and grow till Oct 1. That's almost a 7 month grow before flowering is triggered! Holy Burley Batman!

Wow, you have time for two back to back grows.

 

[jolly]

Wow, you have time for two back to back grows.

I was hoping to get at least three this year. That's why I started so early.

 

[squeezyjohn]

If you're planning on making a dip with a texture similar to Copenhagen then you need a good technique to cut the tobacco fine enough! It can be hard enough getting a good thin smoking cut without specialist equipment, but long-cut dip is far thinner. I don't know this WB chew you're talking about replicating but also bear in mind that a great deal of dip tobacco is fire cured.

I think what you're looking for is a good strong tobacco with nice flavour - maybe with a bit of natural sweetness to it. Of the varieties I've grown, African Red would fit the bill nicely. It's normally flue cured, but I've air-cured it with good success and it has a natural sweetness, good nicotine and a full flavour.

Good luck in your venture

 

[ArizonaDave]

As far as texture, I've gotten the same texture by letting the leaf dry out, then running the leaf (stem removed) in a blender.

 

[WBcutter]

Update July 15: I started the Ahus seed on March 15, planning for six plants. We had a late spring. I planted 3 in my community garden plot May 10 - too early, but two of those 3 survived. I planted another in a 5 gallon bucket behind the apt. bldg. June 4. Finally, the last two I put in a rural plot in Northern MN that I visit bi-weekly. I have been plucking flower buds as they get big. The garden plants have a lot of branches, the bucket plant not as many. The far north plants are still kind of small.

Pictures in my next post, if I can figure out how to do that!

 

[WBcutter]

Below is the Ahus in a 5-gallon bucket, in Minneapolis, MN, July 13.


Below is Ahus in Minneapolis community garden. Hard to get a sense of scale, but it's about the height of the one in the bucket. July 13.


Below is Ahus in rural northern MN, July 10. The 2 tobacco plants are on the ends. Squash is in the middle. It was 39 degrees a couple of nights before.

 

[WBcutter]

Sorry, I am just going through all the posts now. For the past few months, I was all about selecting my variety (Ahus) and trying to make them grow. I don't know the first thing about when to harvest, how to dry, when if to cure, etc. I'll start taking notes based on the subsequent posts. Fire cured. Hard to cut fine enough. Thank you!

 

[WBcutter]

So by "dry out" you mean? Sorry, I'm a total newbie. Do you have to dry tobacco destined for chewing before you "fire cure" it (whatever that is)? But I am copying your reply into my info sheet. Thanks!

 

[WBcutter]

Final post, unless you barrage me with more interesting replies.
What do you all think of this growing plan? Keep picking off the flowers/flowerbuds as I can until just before the frost comes. FYI, the 2 latest transplants (June 10, northern MN) had flower buds even in their Solo cups, as did the Mpls plants which were in the ground by then. Anyhow, before first frost, I'll harvest the plants. Then... ?

 

[Knucklehead]

You can go through the Grow Blogs and read what the other northerners are doing. We have several Canadian members that have short grow seasons. Our other MN member took the year off but maybe he will weigh in on what you should do for your area of the country. My experience in Alabama will be way different from yours.

There are other threads that should help you a lot with pictures, different methods for different climates, etc. Curing methods change all over the place due to the different climates, humidity, heat, etc. Again, look for the guys in your area and see what is working for them.
http://fairtradetobacco.com/forums/47-Harvesting?
http://fairtradetobacco.com/forums/48-Curing-arrangements?
http://fairtradetobacco.com/forums/9-Fire-Cured?
http://fairtradetobacco.com/forums/26-Curing-tobacco?

 

[WBcutter]

My butt is sore from checking out curing methods. I think I will have to rig up a fire curing thing, since the humidity here is just too low. I think the humidity is horrible, but in our hottest day coming up tomorrow, it ranges from 37 to 84% humidity, averaging 50%. So, time to post in the fire-curing area!

 

[Knucklehead]

If you are curing in an enclosed area, you can leave it open at night when humidity is high, then close it in the morning to trap the humid air inside longer. You can also wet the floor, or suspend a towel as a wick from a bucket of water to raise humidity. Humidity is also easier to control in a smaller area. You can partition off an area with plastic sheeting.

 

[WBcutter]

I will try the towel-bucket-plastic thing with a few leaves, once they are ready to harvest. Also looking into low-impact fire-curing. Do you have any advice for buying "thing to monitor humidity?"

 

[Knucklehead]

I will try the towel-bucket-plastic thing with a few leaves, once they are ready to harvest. Also looking into low-impact fire-curing. Do you have any advice for buying "thing to monitor humidity?"

You could possibly air cure in a closet if you can maintain humidity. You could also try the bathroom. Showering will raise humidity.

I use this Meade weather station. It has a probe that can go inside your curing area. If you ever build a kiln, the probe can go inside the kiln.
http://www.amazon.com/Meade-TM005X-M-Wireless-Outdoor-Hygrometer/dp/B004I08CEO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1437241620&sr=8-2&keywords=meade+weather+station

 

[WBcutter]

A fire-curing kiln is an gleam in my eye, but practically, I should go with air curing. Inspecting this old-building apartment, there is deep niche in the bathroom between an unused chimney and the shower wall. I'll get rid of the household stuff, put up plastic sheeting and figure out a way to add humidity and heat. Plus, its "loo-cation" means the temp and humidity can monitored several times a day.

Thanks for the inspiration! I didn't realize temp/humidity monitors were so cheap.