Coolerdor Build
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Smokin Harley
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DIY ,Thank you!...I'll take you up on anything you have to assist me . If it means anything ,its a HAIER brand wine cooler. I haven't looked at it too close but the inside measurements are 16Deepx16wide x24(inches) tall inside...not excluding the little part in the back of the bottom...I estimate it to be about a 3 cu ft unit. I'll post a pic tomorrow morning.
I guess if anything I could use a good source for Spanish Cedar. I've seen the site for a custom set of shelves/drawers but I'd rather build it myself.
I guess if anything I could use a good source for Spanish Cedar. I've seen the site for a custom set of shelves/drawers but I'd rather build it myself.
Sorry for the slow response Harley. I will snag a couple pictures tonight. I don't have a supply for Spanish cedar but you don't need to make the shelves out of it. You can make the shelves out of any hard wood (non aromatic) and then use some hot melt glue to attach random pcs. of S. cedar, left over from cigar boxes, to the walls of the cooler.
Pete
Pete
Smokin Harley
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thats ok , I got a source from another member . Yes, pictures would be great. I even thought about just using the empty spanish cedar lined wooden boxes I have collected so far and put them in the cooler as is.
I went home for lunch today so I grabbed some pics quick. A couple of things to note. Most wine coolers have a drain hole that may need to be plugged. I plugged mine with silicone and the condensation that forms on the cooling element runs down the back wall and into a box of 65% Humidity beads from Heartfelt. (https://www.heartfeltindustries.com/proddetail.asp?prod=HB_05_65) I also wired a 12V wall wart to an RCA jack so I could put a computer fan in the Humidor but I ended up not needing it. I took the fan out but left the plug just in case. In reality it holds humidity to well I sometimes fight to keep it under 70%. 62%-64% would be my ideal.
It has about 160 cigars in it right now and I could add a 100 more if needed.
Pete
It has about 160 cigars in it right now and I could add a 100 more if needed.
Pete
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Smokin Harley
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much appreciated ...That drawer . Thats what I'd like to do , but like 4 of them or whatever I can get to fit.
Ok, now the question- do you actually have the coolers power on or is it just for the fan? I plugged mine in when I got it home and settled after the short ride on its side since its the compressor type. On the lowest setting it still managed to be 45 degrees , so I'm going to guess its not going to be 65-70 plugged in and running as it was originally designed.
Nice collection of cigars ,by the way.
Ok, now the question- do you actually have the coolers power on or is it just for the fan? I plugged mine in when I got it home and settled after the short ride on its side since its the compressor type. On the lowest setting it still managed to be 45 degrees , so I'm going to guess its not going to be 65-70 plugged in and running as it was originally designed.
Nice collection of cigars ,by the way.
Mine is a peltier style cooler so I have it on in the summer set at it's warmest setting which is 62 degrees. I unplug it in the winter so it doesn't run, we keep the house at 65. I got the shelves from Forest over at http://wineadors.com/index.html
He also built the drawer but I bought it off a guy on a cigar forum that ended up with one he didn't need.
I really enjoy a wide variety of smokes. I try to get 5 packs of lots of stuff to try them out and very rarely buy boxes except for some ISOM smokes.
Pete
He also built the drawer but I bought it off a guy on a cigar forum that ended up with one he didn't need.
I really enjoy a wide variety of smokes. I try to get 5 packs of lots of stuff to try them out and very rarely buy boxes except for some ISOM smokes.
Pete
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
Hey DIYPete , I'm thinking of just going the easiest route to make this cooler house some stogies. It maintains 70 degrees very well on its own.
I want to take out those weird looking wire rack shelves they put in ,the wires are too far apart, wavy and can't stack much other than the intended bottles. My original plan was to get some spanish cedar and build simple open top low sided drawers to put ready made cigar boxes on ,but then I thought why couldn't I just put some flat pieces of some sort of plywood on those shelf nubs that are molded into the interior plastic .Some kind of wood that wont put off an aroma I don't want to mingle with tobacco. I have a Menards by me that I think I can get some thin Mahogany ,maple ,cherry wouldn't even impart too much ...or even some 1/4- 3/8 inch luaun and put some perforations in it to allow moisture and air to circulate. Needs to be a stable wood such as what I listed. Anything else I think would swell ,warp or give off a weird aroma over time.
I want to take out those weird looking wire rack shelves they put in ,the wires are too far apart, wavy and can't stack much other than the intended bottles. My original plan was to get some spanish cedar and build simple open top low sided drawers to put ready made cigar boxes on ,but then I thought why couldn't I just put some flat pieces of some sort of plywood on those shelf nubs that are molded into the interior plastic .Some kind of wood that wont put off an aroma I don't want to mingle with tobacco. I have a Menards by me that I think I can get some thin Mahogany ,maple ,cherry wouldn't even impart too much ...or even some 1/4- 3/8 inch luaun and put some perforations in it to allow moisture and air to circulate. Needs to be a stable wood such as what I listed. Anything else I think would swell ,warp or give off a weird aroma over time.
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
Nevermind, I found a guy on ebay that sells 1/4 inch boards. I ordered a 9 inch wide (!!!)x 48 long x 1/4 and a 8 x 48 x 1/4 . Both are planed 2 sides. I think if I plan the cuts right and skeleton/slat build the bottoms, I should be able to build myself 3 decent sized shelves for the inside with fronts with the finger slot cut out in front. I should have them by the end of the month.
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
the one with the drawer closeup ...can you tell me how far apart the bottom slats are and how wide they are. I like that type of construction. I'm going to guess that milling tongue and groove on a 1/4 inch thick piece may be a little touchy but I think I can accomplish that ...maybe. Might need to build myself a little router table to run this joint.
Smokin Harley
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this is the shot I'm talking about.
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Harley,
The gap between the slats in one inch, the slats them selves are one inch wide, and the boarder is two inches wide. You can see the basic tongue and grove construction but the stock is 3/8" not 1/4". If it was me. I would glue it up and then pre-drill holes for for some wire nails to add a little extra support. Tongue and grove on 1/4" stock would be a real booger.
Pete
The gap between the slats in one inch, the slats them selves are one inch wide, and the boarder is two inches wide. You can see the basic tongue and grove construction but the stock is 3/8" not 1/4". If it was me. I would glue it up and then pre-drill holes for for some wire nails to add a little extra support. Tongue and grove on 1/4" stock would be a real booger.
Pete
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Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
yep, I was thinking setting up a dowel jig and shoving 1/8 inch dowels in to strengthen joints. or some kind of thin biscuit joinery...I have a palm push brad nailer somewhere..
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
So much for me going cheap on this coolerdor build. I just bought some beautiful padauk boards for the drawer fronts on ebay. 4 pcs 24 x 6 x 3/8" flat ,kiln dried and sanded. free shipping for roughly $50. Should be a beautiful thing when I get done. Wondering how best to finish the Padauk. I think high gloss would be so high class. now to find a nice looking hygrometer...
Unless the wood is toxic, I would suggest as much unfinished, exposed wood as possible. It helps stabilize the humidity.
Bob
Bob
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
Oh of course . I wouldn't use anything toxic . I just really like the look of the grain of Padauk ,and gloss usually brings that out the best, like a piano finish . Minwax is usually my first choice in wood finishes followed by the hand rubbed look of Watco Danish oil finishes. Formby's used to be really good ,but pricey. I'm just looking for a nice clear coat though that won't cloud under the 70% humidity .
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
with a little searching and home store advantage ..I found this . One guy in the reviews said he actually used it to finish (besides guitars) a humidor .
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deft-1-Aerosol-Gloss-Interior-Clear-Wood-Finish-Lacquer-01013/100204936
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deft-1-Aerosol-Gloss-Interior-Clear-Wood-Finish-Lacquer-01013/100204936
Deft lacquer works pretty well. It is fairly fast drying and generally goes on pretty smooth. All these pictures of larger humidors/coolerdors makes we want to show you what I have going right now.
Walnut humidor with a maple burl door. It will have a glass front for viewing. Spanish cedar lined of course. Enjoy!
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
You do very nice work. What kind of glue do you use ,if any?
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