DGBAMA
Well-Known Member
Have a smoker? Put a little veggie oil or bacon on the racks and cook them. Ann iron frying pan that is well seasoned is almost impossible to make rust......unless washed with SOAP. Treat them the same.
Curing Chamber from the box up My Build
- Thread starter AmaxB
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yeah, veggie oil or bacon grease will season the iron/steel very well, but just be sure you cook it to well done. Don't think you want raw oils on your tobacco.
The juices out of the tobacco leaf will eventually season the steel. Or you could rub it down with stalk juices at the end of the season, to store & prep for next year.
The juices out of the tobacco leaf will eventually season the steel. Or you could rub it down with stalk juices at the end of the season, to store & prep for next year.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I'll grease them up and heat with my torch. Next week we are supposed to get a few cooler days I'll likely do it than.
I'm not sure what specifically it takes to change rust (ferric oxide) into ferrous oxide (iron monoxide) the black stuff, other than heat. Am to lazy now to google/bing it. Tobacco juice is a bit acidic, so that may get you rust, but I would think the sticky/gooey stuff and the heat of the chamber, would eventually get you black.
I know that some of the real old gun-blueing techniques used acid washes and heat.
I know that some of the real old gun-blueing techniques used acid washes and heat.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Curiosity question what do you guys think about liquid gun bluing?
Or don't bother. You'd be surprised how they'll cure up by themselves.
I have used it with good success but again, why bother? Just wait and see if it takes care of itself (unless fussing is your thing.)
not for the curing chamber application - wouldn't trust the chemicals used
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Well there is no debt it will rust at the start anyway this I would like to avoid if I can. So I have been doing a little searching I cannot expect you guys to hold my hand and walk me down the lane. (is just not right and my attract a few funny looks). You have pointed me in a good direction now it is up to me to learn and make it happen. Myself I would like to get it done and not piss around with it I'm seeing there are kits to be bought and there are old school choices.
I see no need to spend money on a kit when I have a torch, oven, and even the chamber it's self as options to heat the racks. The torch being the most logical choice to me so I can work sections and do the entire rack.
I'll use veggie oil or boiled linseed oil applying the oil than heating and will repeat till I have a good finish. Most likely the veggie oil for obvious reasons Don't know if linseed could be bad or not.
I see no need to spend money on a kit when I have a torch, oven, and even the chamber it's self as options to heat the racks. The torch being the most logical choice to me so I can work sections and do the entire rack.
I'll use veggie oil or boiled linseed oil applying the oil than heating and will repeat till I have a good finish. Most likely the veggie oil for obvious reasons Don't know if linseed could be bad or not.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
yeah sort of my thought too,
DGBAMA
Well-Known Member
I agree, heat and your choice of natural oil, either animal fat or veggie, makes the most sense. and it is renewable. Will never flake off or threaten to contaminate anything.
Ishi
Well-Known Member
If you have any bees wax heat the rack up and melt the wax on it. Wipe it off whale still warm. The wax will seal the pours of the metal and keep it from rusting. I think that paraffin would work also. Sense I have excess to bees wax that is what I use for raw iron or steel.
I spent a lot of my life in semiconductor research on the materials side. To the best of my knowledge there is no known solvent for beeswax. When we wanted to scrap silicon wafers we'd mark them with beeswax. The only way that silicon could be reused was to be re-smelted. So if you get it on your steel you may be assured it's not coming off.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Would try the Bee's Wax but it is not handy for me so I'll go with the oils
We have a lot of "bee" people. Maybe one of them could send you a bit.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
That would be nice..
Still need to make the second rack been waiting for temps to fall has been so hot out. Got all of my work load cleared up yesterday so I could get the rack done today.
But wouldn't you know end of the day yesterday a lady brings 4 PCs in for repair. Going to let them sit today and do my rack will need it soon for the leaf.
Still need to make the second rack been waiting for temps to fall has been so hot out. Got all of my work load cleared up yesterday so I could get the rack done today.
But wouldn't you know end of the day yesterday a lady brings 4 PCs in for repair. Going to let them sit today and do my rack will need it soon for the leaf.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
To give an Idea of how the chamber is running for those not keeping up with the fermentation in piles thread. I am happy with it, also the green leaf I hung has dried except
for the stem it has been in there at least a week. I have no idea what type of tobacco it is, but it has dried out to a buckskin shade of tan in color. The green leaf was interesting
because the information in the chart below is what it was subjected to.
Notes: On 7/21/13 the RH set point was raised from 79% to 81%
Griddle set at 220F
The above is a week of fermentation. I ordered two Tobacco Thermometers yesterday to make a Wet / Dry bulb set-up it will be interesting to check them against my PIDs.
Also want to take no chances with my beloved leaf when I move on to Flue Curing.
for the stem it has been in there at least a week. I have no idea what type of tobacco it is, but it has dried out to a buckskin shade of tan in color. The green leaf was interesting
because the information in the chart below is what it was subjected to.
| Date | Chamber Top Temperature | Chamber Bottom Temperature | Heat Box Temperature | Tobacco Temperature | Humidity |
| | | | Set @ 58C | | Set @ 79% |
| 07/15/13 | 118.4F | 123F | 145.4F | 111F | 78.80% |
| 07/16/13 | 116.6F | 121F | 143.6F | 112F | 78.00% |
| 07/17/13 | 116.6F | 123F | 138.2F | 115F | 78.70% |
| 07/18/13 | 116.6F | 121F | 140F | 115F | 78.80% |
| 07/19/13 | 116.6F | 120F | 140F | 112F | 78.80% |
| 07/20/13 | 116.6F | 119F | 136.4F | 112F | 78.70% |
| 07/21/13 | 116.6F | 121F | 141.8F | 111F | 78.60% |
| 07/22/13 | 118.4F | 123F | 143.6F | 112F | 80.00% |
| | | | | | |
Notes: On 7/21/13 the RH set point was raised from 79% to 81%
Griddle set at 220F
The above is a week of fermentation. I ordered two Tobacco Thermometers yesterday to make a Wet / Dry bulb set-up it will be interesting to check them against my PIDs.
Also want to take no chances with my beloved leaf when I move on to Flue Curing.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Chicken dude, I never finished the 10th grade am a mut without papers. That trailer conversion is fine how's it doing this year?
i havent really put it to use yet.... i just yesterday did my first bottom pickings, but with the rain weve been having, everything i picked is going in there today.
i prefer to colour cure naturally, but this year i think it's all gonna be coloured, and dried slowlly in the kiln,
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