Dr. Bob's multi purpose curing chamber in planning

[DrBob]

I havent quit on the curing chamber. It has been too beastly cold to heat the shop.

 

[DrBob]

The attached photo"s are the ducting I plan to use for the stove element for heating the chamber. It is a pair of 6" X 10" duct reducers. I ultimately will use the 8" element for the heat, I need to fit it into the duct and wire it. It is pretty simple because of the off the shelf parts.
the top photo is 8" element, the bottom photo is the 6" element
More later

 

[leverhead]

I like it! A two stage heater, all in one unit. I can think of one more thing to add to it to make it the way to go for the next 30 years, a metal spray nozzle on the down stream side to add moisture at the end of the cure (to bring the load to order). Great thinking, you're the Man!

Steve

 

[DrBob]

I told ya I had a vision steve. The same unit can be controlled with a range controller switch giving infinate adjustments to the heat output. If two stages were used max output could be as high as 5,000 watts with 2 8" elements. And with a turn of the switch it could be lowered to less than 100 watts.
There is a lot more to the thing I am planning, I just aint got it all figgered out yet.

 

[LeftyRighty]

I'm with you, DrBob. We've got 5+ months before these things need to be operating. And it's only a weekend project to build it (I hope). I'm still evaluating, back-checking my design, shopping parts, and so on - lots of time to get it right.

 

[DrBob]

Yes lefty we have lots of time. The actual building is not going to take all that long. I want the thing up and running pretty soon just so I can test how it works. I feel that I can learn a lot testing it with wet towels early on.

 

[Knucklehead]

Looking good Bob. One word of caution and you may already have this figured out, but I think the stoves have some type of heat tolerant isolators between the stove eye and the actual wiring. Will you need a way to keep the wiring back from the heat or is there a special type of wire you plan to use?

 

[DrBob]

Thanks Knuckelhead for your input!
Do you have any Ideas?

 

[leverhead]

Lefty, 5+ months will piss right by. Don't forget about a wet towel shake down run.

Bob, 5 KW! That might heat a house, overkill is a good thing.

Have you guys figured out what varieties you're going to grow? The Southern Beauty I grew last year suckered big time, so I got some seed of the same variety from a different vendor. I liked the finished flavor and otherwise it was a good producer. I haven't figured out a good strategy for selecting seed plants for low sucker traits.

Good luck guys, this should be a fun year.

 

[leverhead]

stoves have some type of heat tolerant isolators between the stove eye and the actual wiring. Will you need a way to keep the wiring back from the heat or is there a special type of wire you plan to use?

The last inch or so near the ends of the element stay pretty cool. The socket they plug into would be a useful part to keep. Wire insulation has different temperature ratings and if need be, braided fiberglass tubing comes in different sizes. It can handle crazy temperatures. For me, the biggest problem was moisture, early on in the cure. Last year I was thinking about silicone spark plug boots to cover the joints.

 

[LeftyRighty]

Strains I'm planning to grow this year - Virg Bright Leaf, TN90, YTB, and skychaser's African Red, all of which am going to attempt flue-curing. My backyard 'garden' is kinda small - just do'n 140-160 plants, enough for a couple years of smokes. Doing a few orientals too, but will sun-cure these.

 

[AmaxB]

Wow I like this thread I know nothing about flue curing and find it interesting. How long will it take to cure? I understand the temps must vary is this correct? If so how / to what temp / at what stage/s? Are the heat elements placed in the chamber or out side of it with fan blowing in?
Am sitting here thinking I could do this but with Quartz elements and dif control to + - 1C using 1 or more thermal couples to regulate and power consumption could be low while running high heat out put to near no out put.
If I grow in the spring I will grow VA Brite and VA 309 I like this blend. I think I am going to I got an acre in back I can use. I'll build a box of my own in my basement. I got a room down there that was used long ago to store water it is 8x9x8 been walled up a long time. When I worked on this place I found a heavy metal hatch cover and so the room (there are 2 of these). I sealed the hatch up and laid tile over it but could cut a door way in the wall from the basement.
My wife will have my nuts but I am getting excited about a new project. (I love projects)
Any in put or Ideas thanks guys. If I were to do this I would share my adventure.

 

[AmaxB]

oops asked a thick headed question! Went back and looked at the pictures above (the element in duct) OK got that part. I will think bout this but 1st thought would be on the floor in a metal box with great and fan. Being a room I would use 2 plus fans (low RPM) to create a soft air flow in the room.

 

[AmaxB]

Sorry Dr. Bob did not mean to hijack your thread.

 

[leverhead]

Wow I like this thread I know nothing about flue curing and find it interesting. How long will it take to cure? I understand the temps must vary is this correct? If so how / to what temp / at what stage/s? Are the heat elements placed in the chamber or out side of it with fan blowing in?
Am sitting here thinking I could do this but with Quartz elements and dif control to + - 1C using 1 or more thermal couples to regulate and power consumption could be low while running high heat out put to near no out put.
If I grow in the spring I will grow VA Brite and VA 309 I like this blend. I think I am going to I got an acre in back I can use. I'll build a box of my own in my basement. I got a room down there that was used long ago to store water it is 8x9x8 been walled up a long time. When I worked on this place I found a heavy metal hatch cover and so the room (there are 2 of these). I sealed the hatch up and laid tile over it but could cut a door way in the wall from the basement.
My wife will have my nuts but I am getting excited about a new project. (I love projects)
Any in put or Ideas thanks guys. If I were to do this I would share my adventure.

Flue-curing takes a up to a week, for each priming. I wouldn't do this in my house, there is a pretty good risk of fire! Flue-curing isn't that complicated. Building a good, reliable flue-curing chamber can be more complicated than it appears. I won't say don't try, the company would be good. Read all of this thread and "leverhead's flue-cure experiment", that will get you through sizing for the number of plants/leaves, controls, plumbing and blowers. Check out DeluxeStogies' thread "Cozy Can" for a smaller, natural draft system. That could be scaled up also, it works like the old style flue-curing barns. If you're up to it, go for it! You don't really need your nuts still, do you? Or you could look at it this way, she won't have to work so hard and make something up to complain about.

 

[AmaxB]

lol
I will read on those threads
The room I speak of is 100% concrete so no chance of fire really (well maybe a slight chance).
My nuts were decommissioned some time ago so I guess she can have em.
Thanks Lever for the direction...

 

[DrBob]

The last inch or so near the ends of the element stay pretty cool. The socket they plug into would be a useful part to keep. Wire insulation has different temperature ratings and if need be, braided fiberglass tubing comes in different sizes. It can handle crazy temperatures. For me, the biggest problem was moisture, early on in the cure. Last year I was thinking about silicone spark plug boots to cover the joints.

you got it right leverhead. I emailed you my idea if you can take up on it. the answer is not that hard. re look at my email.

 

[leverhead]

you got it right leverhead. I emailed you my idea if you can take up on it. the answer is not that hard. re look at my email.

I got you now. The elements can be bent cold. Here's some pictures of what I did to a small burner, the first thing I did was cut one side of the end bracket so that I could unwind the coil. The Aluminum side plates are a heat sink, for more area to the air flow.

 

[Knucklehead]

I wasn't sure of the answer, I just felt it was a question that should be asked. Leverhead covered that pretty well for a transplant.

 

[DrBob]

Thanks Leverwrench.
It is amazing that you unwound that range element like that. That is a neat trick! I got the curse again, woke up in the middle of the night with a new "VISION"!! I do not need to alter the element at all. Just alter my thinking.