ChinaVoodoo
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I'm concerned that the tobacco exposed to the heat lamp will be way hotter than the rest of the kiln.
Help with drying leaves
- Thread starter Pharmguy
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I agree with ChinaVoodoo, there's a threat the heat lamp is going to create too much heat. I usually trap the sensor between the jar and the heat cable to ensure it doesn't get too hot. If the lids are made of metal, those could heat up more so that the rest.
One observation I must add I've made recently, when the jars aren't stuffed too much, the tobacco becomes a bit darker and more evenly cured. I guess there are some reasons this actually makes sense.
Anyway, I'm curious how your setup works. Could be the lamp may be giving up on you before it's done, dunno how reliable this is over a longer period of time.
One observation I must add I've made recently, when the jars aren't stuffed too much, the tobacco becomes a bit darker and more evenly cured. I guess there are some reasons this actually makes sense.
Anyway, I'm curious how your setup works. Could be the lamp may be giving up on you before it's done, dunno how reliable this is over a longer period of time.
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
FYI, in an enclosed space, without transparent or translucent walls, where no light escapes, a heat lamp and a regular incandescent of the same wattage produce the same amount of heat. Only, a heat lamp costs more.
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
Kiln heating source.
I'm planing to build a small fermentation kiln and can't decide what to use as a heat source. Kiln dimensions: 23\23\46 inches insulated with 1inch styrofoam/aeroboard. I will ferment in sealed container, so no need for any kind of humidifier. I'm considering two heating options. First is a...
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
Oversized example.
The light only turns on for about 5-10 seconds and is off for about a min and a half. I don’t know how the temp could be that much different on the tobacco. If anything, the inside of the jar will take a while to reach the same temp as outside the jar. And once the temp reaches equilibrium there is very little fluctuation in range, 5 degrees. I don’t know much about this process or heat lamps for this application so it is definitely a learning experience for me.
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
Well, let us know how it goes.
I will definitely share the results. However, it may be difficult to give an accurate summary since the leaves that are in the chamber are questionable, at best. Not to “beat a dead horse”, but is the concern that the inside of the jars the temperature will be higher than what is being read by thermostat? If this is the case, at what temp is “too high” for the tobacco? I’ve been trying to think about what’s actually taking place in the chamber. At this point, it’s been running for about 12 hours so inside the jar should match the temperature inside the chamber and all the heat lamp is doing is maintaining that temperature. I’ve attached a temperature chart for the last 2 hours ish.
On another note, at what point should I open the chamber to check things out? In my mind it’s best to keep everything closed up so that temp can remain constant as long as possible. Maybe, check at 1 week?
I really do appreciate the comments.
Trevor
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Using light to transmit heat allows the closed jars to function like a greenhouse. I don't know the extent to which the spectrum of the heat lamp penetrates the glass. You could just insert some non-flammable object between the light source and the jars, and measure the temp between that object and the jars.
Ideal fermentation temps are between 122°F and 130°F.
Bob
Ideal fermentation temps are between 122°F and 130°F.
Bob
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
Is there a circulation fan?
I'm concerned about one of two scenarios: the tobacco facing the bulb is adequate temperature and the tobacco not facing the bulb will be cool and therefore mold; or the tobacco not facing the light will be good and the tobacco facing the light will also good, but totally different because it was toasted.
I'm not saying it will be. I'm just seeing these outcomes as possibilities.
I'm concerned about one of two scenarios: the tobacco facing the bulb is adequate temperature and the tobacco not facing the bulb will be cool and therefore mold; or the tobacco not facing the light will be good and the tobacco facing the light will also good, but totally different because it was toasted.
I'm not saying it will be. I'm just seeing these outcomes as possibilities.
No, I don’t have a fan of any kind in the chamber. I’m not sure what I would use to accomplish this. Thanks for the comments. I appreciate hearing them.
Trevor
1/16" of anything opaque, that blocks direct radiation onto the jars is ideal.
Bob
Bob
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
The aluminum, yes. Just to block the radiation exposure to the tobacco, but still to allow circulation.
A tiny computer fan or other type of DC fan should work.
@ChinaVoodoo what would the fan be good for when there's a barrier that heats up, distributing the heat evenly? Especially when it doesn't touch the jars?
@Pharmguy a barrier is indeed a good idea - an issue I've got with my jars, despite trapping the sensor in between is that the bottom most leaves are indeed toasted. They're not bad, and I tend to use the absolute rubbish ones there, though I presume a better distribution of the heat would make for better results. A concept I'll try at some point, when I've got a more potent heat cable, is to put a sheet of metal over the cable and suspend the jars over the metal using a net. This way, they'll be heated by the air rather than directly from the source. Then, the location of the sensor is presumably less of an issue to
@Pharmguy a barrier is indeed a good idea - an issue I've got with my jars, despite trapping the sensor in between is that the bottom most leaves are indeed toasted. They're not bad, and I tend to use the absolute rubbish ones there, though I presume a better distribution of the heat would make for better results. A concept I'll try at some point, when I've got a more potent heat cable, is to put a sheet of metal over the cable and suspend the jars over the metal using a net. This way, they'll be heated by the air rather than directly from the source. Then, the location of the sensor is presumably less of an issue to
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
Yeah. The energy from the light is directional and blocking it both disperses the rays, as well as reduces the amount of directional IR radiation as it heats up the aluminum. Without a fan much of that heat in the aluminum will turn back into radiation. With a fan, more of the heat be extracted from the aluminum and will transfer into the air.
You have translucent / transparent aluminum?
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
That sounds like a decent idea
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
I'm not clear on what opaque means, but I don't know if it ain't clear.
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