Picture of my shade leafe

[Michibacy]

A lot of municipal water plants are starting to use Chloramine instead of aqueous chlorine.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloramine

Letting chloraminated water sit in a container does not let it gas off as did chorinated water.

(Chloramine is quite dangerous, interesting read here: http://www.americanfreepress.net/html/chloraminated_water.html)

 

[VonMessa]

But hey, it tastes better, correct?

 

[Michibacy]

Yep sure does, that's what 6 times your daily amount of lead in only 1 glass of water tastes like

 

[marksctm]

As for chlorine in tobacco, if the plant absorbs too much chlorine, then the cured leaf will not burn.

Well that sure is disheartening, not only did I just pay my $120.00 water bill this month. (double what it usually is)
Now I find out it was all to grow a crop of freek'n fire proof crap! MAN THAT SUCKS!

Or at least the first 1/3 of my primed leaf, after that we started getting rain.
Or once I water it with city water, is the plant ruined from then on?
Thanks,
Chris...

 

[Michibacy]

Chris, I don't seem to have a problem using city water. I also water using a carbon filter that is supposed to get rid of the Chlor- chemicals. (It's a carbon filter that is often used in aquariums). I really don't like to use it, but it seems to work. Try to light some stuff up after it's cured and fermented, don't throw it out claiming it won't burn. It might just need some more time

 

[deluxestogie]

Chris,
Freshly color-cured leaf usually won't burn as well as the same leaf after kilning or aging. This is because unaged and unkilned leaf has higher levels of carbohydrates (imagine burning a piece of candy) and albuminous proteins, both of which diminish during the aging or kilning processes.

Kilned leaf feels thinner than freshly color-cured leaf, and in fact, loses weight (mostly carbs and proteins) during the kilning.

Having said all that, I have kilned some leaf (grown with high chloride fertilizer) that afterwards was like trying to light flame-proof pajamas. Such leaf is not a complete loss, since it can be blended with better-burning leaf to make a workable smoke.

Bob

 

[marksctm]

Thanks Michibacy and Bob,
I have some that's been hanging over 3 months, and like you said Bob, It is much thinner than when it was first cured.
I'm going out to the shed and pick some out, and bring it to case to night, and roll some up and give it a try, and try my hand at rolling my first stogie.
I know it hasn't aged near enough, but if it burns, I'm smoke'n it no matter how much I hack and cough.
Thanks guys,
Chris...

 

[johnlee1933]

Hey Chris, A suggestion from a relative beginner? I've rolled a 100 or so and went thru the usual disasters. Deluxstogie said it in an earlier thread and when I finally listened I started getting something I liked to smoke. He said and I agree:

Have your filler in very low case -- Almost crinkly
Have your binder in high medium case -- Damp and stretchy -- It'll stretch and then shrink a little and firm up your cigar.
Have your wrapper in high case -- Limp. -- If you're after pretty you can roll your wrapper to flatten the veins.

You don't have to pull the wrapper really tight to get a nice smoke. Don't worry if the cigar isn't pretty at first. That comes with practice. As Bob said a good smoke comes first.

I tried using scrap and found out long leaves laid straight work out a lot better. I tried to roll tight hard smokes like the commercial ones I smoked for years. I find the ones I like now are quite a lot softer. For me they draw easier and are a pleasant smoke. If you want to chew the fat a little PM me with your number and I'll drop the dime.

AND don't get discouraged. It will come.

John

 

[marksctm]

Thanks Johnlee I'll take you up on your offer.

Chris